head in the clouds

[litljortindan]

Not quite what I was expecting but a walk that turned out really well.
I had just picked Meall nan Ceapraichean because I knew the first 6km of path was easy and suspected from the WH route description and user reports that the other 3km would be fine in summer when any potential wet footed burn crossings wouldn't matter too much. I was also really just trying to pick a walk that wouldn't cause me to contort myself too much at any point.
The drive across to Inverlael was a little bit dispiriting as far as Garve because it was so cloudy. This didn't align too well with my usual early morning start as I thought it might mean having to wait in the car for a bit so that my walk coincided with clearer conditions. However, beyond Garve the cloud was sufficiently low for me to suspect that there might be inversion conditions higher up. No guarantee of that, of course.
I set off at 7am and after an hour and a half I was at the path fork and well and truly in the cloud. Sadly it seemed as if this cloud had limitless depth as there were no hints above of thinning or breaking above. Still, I enjoyed the surroundings that I could see (not much) and the reassurance that I was able to walk for some distance without any aches or pains.
The burn crossings provided some diversion from the plod along the path and, thankfully, they did not require me to stretch anything too far. After that I caught a first hint that the cloud top might not be too far away; just a brightness in the grey cover above but experience told me that I might emerge above though I couldn't yet discount misunderestimation as a possibility.
Just after Lochan Lathail a huge shape loomed out of the mist to my left (north), undoubtedly the profile of Meall nan Ceapraithean's summit and ridge. Then Beinn Dearg did the same to my right -just another fleeting view but the giants had made a statement that they were there and doing battle with the cloud but still there was no guarantee of victory.
At the 790m contour lochans it became clear that I might well have a very good chance of getting above the cloud as the surrounding crags were suddenly revealed above the ragged top of the mist the was being blown up through the Bealach an Lochan Uaine. In years gone by this would have prompted a dash for the top but I can't do that any more so I had to make do with a continued plod to the top in the hope that things would keep improving. And to say that they did keep improving would be a slight understatement.
From the 700m contour up to the bealach at 850m the cloud closed in again a bit but I could now see little bits of blue sky above so I felt that I might be in luck. Of course it is perfectly possibly for the cloud top to sit more less at summit height and to give the impression of being clear from a lower vantage point but I just didn't believe this cloud could be sitting from a low point of 400m right up to 1000m. Or, at least, I didn't want to believe that this might be the case.
Just as I followed the path skirting Lochan an Uaine, looking out for the diversion north west to the summit, the cloud broke again and I could see Beinn Dearg's summit and Meall nan Ceapraichean seemingly sitting proud of the cloud top.
I now somehow managed to find a bit of extra energy to speed my progress over to the crag edge to catch first sight of the cloud sweeping up to the bealach. This was just magnificent to behold, especially after the previous three and a half hours of near total sensory deprivation.
It wan't exactly an inversion in the sense of the hill tops sitting serenely above a trapped layer of cloud. The nearby summits were certainly above the cloud but the scene was more of a high energy battle of the cloud swirling and swooping, creating the most dramatic effects as it sometimes appeared as a ragged wall below and, at other times, as ribbons blown up and around the crag walls.
The general top of the cloud was too high for hill views to the west though some outlines and summits could be made out at times but there was plenty to see in the more immediate surroundings of Beinn Dearg and Cona' Meall.
Thus I had a highly entertaining stroll up the summit ridge.
Sat down near the summit for half an hour of eating, drinking and periodically checking to see if it was getting clearer.
Eventually I succumbed to my schedule and started to descend but still it was enthralling to see what shapes would be thrown up in the air.
At the bealach I reluctantly had a last look round and made my way back towards the gloom.
Had a difficult time generating any sort of pace for the walk back. My shoulders and feet were unusually achy and I just wasn't able to get any rhythm to my walking. Still, that gave me plenty excuse to stop and look back up the glen at the still evolving picture of mist and cloud draped at ever lowering heights around the hills and in ever changing forms.
By the time I got back to the woods most of the cloud and mist was gone so better views but I was glad the walk went the way it did.
Overall a highly enjoyable walk, mainly because of the extraordinary conditions. Struggling on the descent wasn't good though and neither was the giant cleg bite I got as a memento.


It's pretty and it's pretty foggy.


The lack of distant views intensifies the near at hand -in this case both the sight of the waterfall and its sound.


A definite bright spot.


At the 790m contour lochans it clear a bit.




At Lochan Uaine.


Just as I start looking out for the summit path it starts to clear again.


Starting to look very promising.


I ascend the summit ridge, stopping frequently to admire the cloud blowing up through the bealach, here looking directly south at Beinn Dearg.




And there is the summit beckoning up ahead.


Just a hint of An Teallach on the horizon but the cloud top remains generally too high for hill views in that direction.


Quite pleased with the situation.


Cona' Mheall's west ridge starts to make an appearace.


And there is Beinn Enaiglair too I think.




Approaching the summit but wish the ridge would carry on.














Cona' Mheall west ridge again.


Some crags to the east.


Reluctantly making my way back down the ridge.


(Not) ready to re-embrace the gloom.


Back into the gloom and it is the small things that catch the eye again.




Further down the glen the fog still puts up a fight to stay put but it is a battle that cannot be won.












Meall nan Ceapraichean and Beinn Dearg.


Still a kilometre to go to get the the woods and then another two and a half to the car. I am struggling a bit with sore shoulders and feet but at least it is an easy path.