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Not a great forecast this week, but not awful either. Not good enough for tough stuff in Torridon, but enough to make Knoydart a possibility. I was ambivalent about heading to Knoydart with a forecast of rain and clag, but needs must at the moment. We headed up on Thursday night, arriving at our favoured camp spot in heavy rain. Surprisingly few cars/vans along the Loch Hourn road. I had thought of walking an hour or so along the track to Kinlochhourn, but not in this weather - we'd just take the extra distance tomorrow.
A lot of rain overnight, swollen streams and wet underfoot as we walked along the path. We'd spoken to a couple of guys in a van who were walking in with the aim of camping at Mam Barrisdale, just like us. Loch Hourn was mirror calm, midges were around until we turned round enough corners to have some wind in our faces. Met some Germans walking out who had been soaked over the last four days, and a group of Scottish lads more used to the weather. Stopped at the bridge after the bothy for lunch, just gone 12. Headed up to the pass - we could see the other lads' tents pitched on the south side, getting a fair battering from the wind. We snuck round behind a hillock on the north side where we had a fair bit of shelter, if a rather lumpy pitch. Then it was off up Ladhar Bheinn.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
We last climbed Ladhar Bheinn 9 years ago. The years have taken their toll on me, especially as 2015 saw me probably at my fittest. Allison had forgotten how many scrabbly bits there are on this hill - I'd forgotten just how many ups and downs there are. Up to Stob a'Chearcaill, heading off to the left to bypass the summit, then the long, long wander around Coire Dhorrcail. We met the other lads coming back when we got to the 849m top. Clag was lifting and dropping, at least we were getting some views, and the promised showers hadn't materialised at all. it's a long drop to the next bealach, nearly 150m, then up again. A moment or two to work out the best way past a slabby face, then unimpeded to the summit.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
To the summit
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Al, on Flickr
From here we tracked back a little and headed off into space - or so it seemed due to the clag - to get to Stob a'Choire Odhair, the Munro Top. That's two left now for round two of them. It's quite narrow, I was glad of my poles. Back to the path and back over all the steps we'd taken...we'd been at the summit of the MT at quarter to seven; it was almost 9.30 by the time we got back to the tent. A late meal indeed.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Despite the long day on Friday neither of us slept that well. No rush to get up - forecast suggested clag down til 10am. I was feeling pretty tired after yesterday's exertions and was sloth-slow as we started up Luinne Bheinn. It was a fairly good day - some sunshine, little wind. Clear tops, nice views over to Ben Aden and Sgurr na Ciche. Last time we'd been on Luinne Bheinn (in 2022) there had been some awkward snow - no such problems today. Descent to the first of many bealachs then a good path onwards over Meall Coire na Gaoithe'n Ear and steeply up to the summit, where our arrival coincided with that of an Irish couple and their lovely collie - they'd come up from Inverie and were looping round to camp and do Ladhar Bheinn tomorrow.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
View across to Ladhar Bheinn from Luinne Bheinn
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Al, on Flickr
Meall Buidhe off in the distance
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Al, on Flickr
Ben Aden, Sgurr na Ciche
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
We retraced our steps and got to Bealach a' Choire Odhair. We were tempted just to go back over Luinne Bheinn rather than follow the fence line over rough boggy stuff, but we needed to pick up some water, which we could do more easily going the latter route. It was boggy in many places, but a bit quicker than going back over the top. Only 7pm when we got back to the tent tonight! We opted to stay put rather than pack up our stuff and re-camp down in Barisdale Bay. Both of us slept better tonight.
Large emerald moth
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Sunday was dry and sunny - we had the walk out back to Kinlochhourn to do, no time for anything else. Strange and eerie noise of red-throated divers wailing from the little islands out to the west. The estate have been doing up some of the buildings - like the farmhouse in the trees near the west end of Gleann Unndalain, they've also populated the flat green spot near the beginning of the track to Kinloch Hourn with boulders, presumably to stop camping...
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Al, on Flickr
