Back to Braeriach after many years

[djarvie]

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The forecast for the Cairngorms looked very good, with little cloud or wind. After a 5.30am rise, I set off on my bike from the Linn of Dee car park just before 8am for a long day traversing the Cairn Toul - Braeriach ridge. I hadn't been on Braeriach since the 1970s, although it made a big impression on me at that time.

The cycle to Derry Lodge, which took 25 minutes, seemed to pass very quickly, and I then tried to continue on my bike, but because of a number of boggy bits, I gave up and left my bike. A short distance later, a decent track resumed for more than half a mile, so I regretted giving up on the bike so soon. After the end of the track, the path which continued was also mostly cycleable for a while before it deteriorated. Crossing the Luibeg Burn was a bit tricky but I managed it without getting my feet wet - there is a bridge upstream if needed. I walked as fast as possible along the path to keep the time to a minumum, encountering a few other people walking in both directions. After walking for an hour and coming round Càrn a Mhàim, the Devil's Point came into view, and soon Cairn Toul and Braeriach also became visible.

The Devil's Point across the River Dee, and Cairn Toul (right)

After an hour and a half's walk, a path led down to an unusual bridge over the River Dee, and then to Corrour Bothy. A plaque on the bridge said that it had been built in 1959 for the convenience of visitors.

The bridge over the Dee to Corrour Bothy

After changing to a T-shirt, I carried on past the bothy up the steepish path to the ridge above. Unexpectedly, I managed the 350m climb without stopping for a rest. I did have a rest at the top though before carrying on for the remaining gentler 100m climb to the top of Devil's Point.

The Devil's Point summit, with Ben Macdui behind

Not surprisingly, given the mountain's shape, there were impressive views to the south.

The Devil's Point summit looking south: Geusachan Burn (right) feeding into River Dee, and Beinn Bhrotain

After a 20 minute break to take in the views and eat, I set off towards Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir, the Munro top on the way to Cairn Toul. This looked like quite a big climb ahead, which indeed it was, being a 300m ascent from the col.

Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir ahead, with Cairn Toul behind, on the descent from The Devil's Point

I lost the path once or twice, and it was a bit of an effort, but I got to the top 50 minutes after leaving the Devil's Point.

Looking towards Cairn Toul, with Sgòr an Lochain Uaine and Braeriach behind, from Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir summit

There was now a relatively small descent round the rim of a corrie before climbing Cairn Toul.

Looking down Coire an t-Saighdeir between Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir and Cairn Toul towards Càrn a Mhàim

A lot of the way up Cairn Toul was over boulders. Sometimes there was easier going near the edge of the corrie, but not always. When I was nearly at the top, I stopped briefly and then noticed a snow bunting a few feet away, hopping about among the rocks, and at one point it sat still for a minute or two for a portrait photo.

Snow bunting below Cairn Toul's summit

The path up Cairn Toul

There is a cairn when you reach the top, but the summit is actually at the other end of the short summit ridge.

Cairn Toul's summit ridge

On top, the going was easier, with less boulders to negotiate.

Cairn Toul summit, with Sgòr an Lochain Uaine behind left

The best views were from just below the summit to the north, at the edge of the corrie with the striking Lochan Uaine at its bottom, and facing Braeriach and its enormous corries. I sat there to take in the views, to have another bite to eat and to enjoy the sun now that the sky was clearing. There were a few other people here and there sitting among the rocks.

Braeriach and Lochan Uaine from Cairn Toul's summit

After a 25 minute break, I headed down over more boulders and bits of path to the col before climbing up Sgòr an Lochain Uaine. At the top, the best views were again from slightly below the summit, which allowed a clear view down to Lochan Uaine.

Ben Macdui, Cairn Toul and Lochan Uaine from Sgòr an Lochain Uaine summit

I could also now completely see the huge corrie below Braeriach, An Garbh Choire. It had a few small snow patches left, although I don't imagine that they will last much longer. Although I'd climbed 3 or the 4 Munros on this walk, it looked a long way round the corrie edge to reach Braeriach's summit - in fact, nearly 3 miles.

An Garbh Choire from Sgòr an Lochain Uaine summit

Walking down to the next col over more boulder fields, I looked back and was struck by how rounded and boring Cairn Toul and Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir looked from behind, away from their cliffs and corries. They have a completely different character from here!

Cairn Toul and Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir on descent of Sgòr an Lochain Uaine

The next top was Càrn na Criche, which was just a slight rise above the extensive plateau behind the corrie edge.

Càrn na Criche summit, looking towards Braeriach

Falls of Dee and Braeriach

Cairn Toul and Sgòr an Lochain Uaine from near Falls of Dee

After a bit, I could see the Wells of Dee in a hollow some distance off to the left, and then further on I came to the nascent Dee, at that point just a small burn which flows from them before tumbling over the corrie edge as the Falls of Dee. Here, I filled up my water.

The Dee burn heading for the Falls of Dee

A short distance later, I saw over 20 animals off to the left, which I realised were reindeer, presumably the Cairngorm herd even though it's some distance from Cairngorm.

Reindeer

There was then some distance to cover across gradually rising ground, with some patches of boulders, to reach the edge of the corrie near the summit. The rock forming the cliffs was very broken, and I noticed one place where a big piece of rock had broken off relatively recently, leaving a clean coloured patch. As I was nearing the summit, I heard a raven calling, and saw it landing on a cliff nearby. Then two ravens flew about for a little bit, each of them doing one or two tumbles in the air.

Finally I reached the big summit cairn. Unlike the last time I was here, somebody was already sitting looking at the view, and a couple of rucksacks had been left against the cairn. I must have seen over 30 people on this walk, compared to probably none last time. I sat on a rock near the edge to have a sandwich and to take in the amazing view. There was a feeling of space unlike anywhere else I've been to. The mountain is so high compared to the corrie floor which merges into the glen far below, and the corrie is so vast, that the chasm below is simply enormous. The space is defined by the three mountains Braeriach, Ben Macdui and Cairn Toul (the 3rd, 2nd and 4th highest in Scotland) which are all almost the same height.

Ben Macdui and Càrn a Mhàim from Braeriach's summit

Rock outcrop seen from Braeriach's summit

Looking south from Braeriach's summit

The two rucksacks were reclaimed by an Irish couple who exchanged some cheerful banter with me. I stayed half an hour before starting the descent.

Braeriach's summit cliffs

There was a fairly wide path down to a col, after which I walked a short distance up to Sròn na Làirige, another relatively minor top. After returning to the col, I cut down over grassy slopes towards the Lairig Ghru. There was quite a steep section high up which was a bit rocky and slow going, and unfortunately I didn't find the path until I was well down it - the path was further to the right. After the slope eased, there was still a long way down, and care was needed as the ground was quite difficult with a lot of rocks and holes hidden by vegetation, and boggy areas. I finally saw a few frogs for the first time in the walk.

The route back, seen from the descent from Braeriach

Eventually after nearly an hour descending, I reached the path on the other side of the Allt na Lairig Ghru. It was encouraging to know that I was on the path back, but it was very rough with lots of rocks to have to step on or over, so it was harder going than I'd have liked.

The Devil's Point seen on the return

Looking back up to Braeriach

It took about an hour to reach the Corrour Bothy turnoff. I felt pretty tired by this time, so I sat to have something more to eat, which helped. While resting, I was surprised to be overtaken by a man and his son, although I passed them again not too long after. After perhaps half an hour past the bothy, the path became smoother and easier to walk on. As in the morning, there were hairy orangy and black striped caterpillars here and there on the path.

It was more than a 2½ hour walk to cover the 7 miles from when I first reached the path below Braeriach until I got to my bike. I pushed it past the boggy bits before changing into my cycling shoes. My mind told me that the cycle back was taking longer than in the morning, but being downhill it was actually quicker and easier. Finally, after a total of close on 13 hours I was back at the car, devouring a tin of lightly smoked and spiced sardines which I'd been carrying in my rucksack.

[R1ggered]

Fantastic effort for what looked like a glorious day.