All around Alligin

[Gareth M]

After a motorway closure that put me back a fair bit, I eventually made it to a layby past Inverness at 1am. I then got my head down on the less than comfy backseat. However, not for long, as I wanted to be walking before sunrise to catch it from as high as I could manage. I finally made it to the Beinn Alligin car park at 6am and got going.

Torridon west 1 night(1).gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

The skies were clear, the winds were light, and traffic and lack of sleep were now behind me as I climbed Beinn Alligin. The plan was to first climb Beinn Alligin before dropping down to the north and eventually ending up camping in Liathach's west ridge. First challenge was to make it to a point where Liathach wasn't blocking the sun for sunrise. I just about managed it and was treated to a spectacular sunrise over Beinn Eighe.

Just in time for sunrise

I'd seen Beinn Alligin from a distance before, and the path up through Coire nan Laogh looked brutal. Close up it looks way better, and it's very well made which certainly helps, as did the shade.

The top of Tom na Gruagaich is one of those big reveal type summits. What a reveal it is, Sgùrr Mhòr dominates the view with Beinn Dearg, Beinn Eighe, and Liathach beyond. I could have sat here all day, but eventually I had to set off down the ridge towards Sgùrr Mhòr.

Sgùrr Mhòr from Tom na Gruagaich

The ridge down from Tom na Gruagaich narrows and became slightly awkward with my big heavy bag on. I should have taken the bypass path which starts in the little dip between the summits. After a short while I reached a tricky part on the ridge crest and decided to cut down to the bypass path, which involved a few more awkward moves, but was all fine in the end. A big heavy bag getting in the way and pulling you off balance really does make you concentrate down bits like this.

Safely down, I could now start the climb up to Sgùrr Mhòr, which was nice and straightforward and not too far. I think it's impossible to walk past Eag Dubh and not be amazed. It's huge dripping cliffs, dropping far below, and framing a little slice of the view. Then there's the top itself. The view east is pretty much as good as it gets. Again, it's hard to pull myself away from this, but I had to keep pushing on.

Sgùrr Mhòr across a tiny lochan

Baosbheinn

Eag Dubh makes an impressive window

Looking back to Tom na Gruagaich

There can't be too many better views than this in Scotland

Next target was the tiny Graham of An Ruadh-Mheallan. The idea was to get Beinn Alligin done early, while it was quiet and the light was good, and then walk some more remote parts until the evening. This worked well, and I only saw a couple and their dog before descending the grassy ramp north off Beinn Alligin.

To the north, the paths are gone, and it has a much more untrodden feel. I left some of my overnight weight near a fence and continued over to An Ruadh-Mheallan, which looked bigger from down here (I guess it obviously would). The main obstacles were a large boulder field and some boggy bits, the climb itself was on decent ground.

An Ruadh-Mheallan

Loads of deer

The top of An Ruadh-Mheallan is pleasingly rocky. The views down to Loch Torridon and out to sea are particularly good, although the haze restricted them a bit. Beinn Alligin looks very odd from 'the back', especially Sgùrr Mhòr, which looks like a stretched grassy dome. The walk back to the rest of my stuff involved a surprising amount of climbing, back up to nearly to the same height as the summit of An Ruadh-Mheallan, it didn’t feel like that much drop on the way out.

Hazy views of Loch Torridon from An Ruadh-Mheallan

Unusual views of Sgùrr Mhòr

The next part of the walk was one of the best. I hadn't looked up anything about Loch Toll nam Biast, I knew from the map it was probably nice, but didn't realise it was paradise. A clear burn flowed into the loch and a spit of untouched sand divided the two. Above the loch towered Sgùrr Mhòr and the first of its horns, with Beinn Dearg at the far end. I sat on the beach and had a little paddle, occasionally I could see tiny figures on the ridge high above. It was so nice here that I considered camping on the hill to the northwest of the loch, Creag a' Chinn Duibh. However, it was only 3 or 4 in the afternoon so a bit early to finish for the day.

Loch Toll nam Biast is pretty much paradise

Beinn Dearg across one of the many lochans near Loch Toll nam Biast

In the distance Slioch, Beinn a' Chearcaill, and Meall a' Ghiuthais

There were some good waterfalls dropping down to Bealach a' Chomhla

When planning the walk, I ambitiously had an out and back to Beinn Dearg, allowing me to leave the heavy bag at the bottom, before camping somewhere up Mullach an Rathain on Liathach. Trouble is, I now only had time for one of them. So, it was either lug the bag up Beinn Dearg or miss it out. I decided to miss it out, as it looked really steep, and I could save it for another time as an excuse to return.

There was now a bit of descending before the climb up to the west ridge of Liathach. Eventually a path appears along Bealach a' Chomhla which leads to the path from Beinn Alligin. Here there were a few people in front and behind me, a bit of a change from the quiet areas I'd been to the north. The path drops a fair way, which is pretty depressing when you can see the climb ahead getting bigger. Also, I couldn’t help think about how close I was to the car and if it was daft to have carried my heavy bag all the way around. However, the scenery kept me going, as well as the desire to get somewhere high up to camp.

Liathach looking very impressive

Before the bridge at the bottom of the path, I turned left up the glen for a bit, on a good path still. After a bit there was no more delaying it, and I had to cross the river and make my way up the rough, steep, and pathless slope. It was just a case of plodding and stopping to 'admire the view' regularly. After a slow climb, I eventually made it to the top of Sgòrr a' Chadail, where the views straight down to Loch Torridon are excellent. What wasn't excellent was the attack of the deer keds. I'd had the odd one bother me in the past, but never a sustained onslaught. They're sticky little things, clinging in hair and on skin. The standard flick of the hand is no defence, and they require picking off. It wasn't the best 10 minutes of the weekend, but I eventually outran them!

Beinn Eighe

Baosbheinn back through Bealach a' Chomhla

Finally at the top of the west ridge of Liathach and rewarded with a view straight down to Loch Torridon

It was now time to find somewhere to camp. After the soggy summer, most places that looked dry were quite squelchy. I eventually found somewhere dryish at around 2,500 ft. This did leave me with a climb of about 850 ft to Mullach an Rathain for sunset and sunrise, but it was one of the last flat bits of ground on the ridge.

Campsite with the start of an amazing sunset

Once I was pitched, I headed up the top with just camera stuff in hand. After a nice little ridge, I was on the small summit where the ground falls away to another amazing view. Looking down into the rugged Coire na Caime, framed by the even more rugged peaks of Meall Dearg, Spidean a' Choire Lèith, and the pinnacles. The other way Loch Torridon led out to the sea and the setting sun and in the distance all around were hazy mountains. I stayed here for a while enjoying the views and took more photos than I care to admit. When I made it back down to the tent it was getting fairly dark. I sat and took it all in for a little bit longer at the tent before getting my head down for the night.

Last light on Spidean a' Choire Lèith and Beinn Eighe

36 photos (and a fair bit of faff) to make this 1 photo of an amazing sunset

I think that's Sgorr Ruadh in the last of the light

Light winds made for a good night's sleep, and I woke to the strange noises of ptarmigan surrounding the tent. I made a bit of an error and spent too much time in the tent waiting for it to get light. This meant I didn't leave enough time for a leisurely walk back to the top for sunrise. It was more of a power walk and at the end I was setting my camera and tripod up on the move, knowing that as I reached the top the sun would just be up. And there it was, between Spidean a' Choire Lèith and Beinn Eighe, worth the rush. I probably spent the best part of an hour on my own at the top watching the changing light.

First light from the tent looking to Slioch with Fisherfield beyond

Just about made it for sunrise looking to Spidean a' Choire Lèith and Beinn Eighe

Horns of Alligin in the early light

Stunning early light across Liathach's pinnacles

Sgorr nan Lochan Uaine on the left and the eastern tops of Beinn Liath Mhòr

Liathach's shadow stretching out over Loch Torridon

The ridge east looked very inviting, but not today

Beinn Damh catching the early morning light

Maol Chean-dearg and An Ruadh-Stac

Beinn an Èoin

I could have stayed there for another hour but decided it was time to make a move. Back down to pack up the tent then down to the car. I decided to follow the path along the ridge assuming it would lead me off the mountain. It was fine for a bit as it dropped from Sgòrr a' Chadail down towards Loch Torridon, but then it petered out, or I lost it. Being part way down I decided to continue. There were some very steep cling to the grass and heather type slopes. Then you'd reach bands of rock baring further progress. So, I zig zagged down through the crags. Then, as safe ground was in sight, I reached a very steep gully that I wasn't prepared to risk. It was very damp and steep and I couldn't see what lay beyond. It was a bit depressing climbing back up. I was thinking I may have to climb all the way back up and go down the way I'd climbed up the night before. Luckily though, I climbed up a few terraces and had a look round the corner where I saw a very small cairn pointing the way to an easy gully. From here I knew there should be a way down through the remaining crags to reach the bottom. Maybe I missed an obvious way down, either way it would probably be easier going up as you'd be able to see the obstacles a bit more, maybe.

Beinn Eighe

To me, this looks like a satellite image of some remote corner of earth. Gullies on Beinn Dearg

Beinn Bhan's big wall of cliffs

Beinn Damh

A long way down to sea level from Sgòrr a' Chadail

It was with relief that I plotted a course over the rough, but safe, ground towards the obvious waterfall on Allt Toll a' Mhadaidh. Then it was just an easy walk down to the car through a nice bit of forest.

Pretty walk back to the car park

I couldn't ask for much more from this walk. It had spectacular mountains, remote feeling places, beautiful lochs, a stunning sunset and sunrises, light winds, warm sun, and, apart from the 10 minute attack, no bugs. Perfect!

[EmmaKTunskeen]

That was breathtaking!

[dav2930]

Outstanding photos, really quite exceptional.

[Mal Grey]

Simply fabulous!

[Anne C]

Absolutely outstanding photographs! You really did the mountains justice on such a fabulous day.Those sunrise images are just gorgeous.

[Gareth M]

That was breathtaking!

Outstanding photos, really quite exceptional.

Simply fabulous!

Absolutely outstanding photographs! You really did the mountains justice on such a fabulous day.Those sunrise images are just gorgeous.

Thanks everyone!

[kevsbald]

Worthy of Report of the Month. Superb.

[grantbagsmunros]

Gorgeous photos and nicely written up.

[Gareth M]

Gorgeous photos and nicely written up.

Worthy of Report of the Month. Superb.

Thanks both!

[photosheikh]

Absolutely stunning photos and such a great story.
Thank you

[Peter Finlay]

Some brilliant photos here and takes me back to 1977 when I climbed Liathach by night then went on to Beinn Dearg and was only stopped by my wise Black Labrador (Fitheach, the Raven) from carrying on to Beinn Alligin. I might have been on it early morning about the same time you were on it - so your photos are a great record for me of what I would have seen. Many thanks!

[Gareth M]

Absolutely stunning photos and such a great story.
Thank you

Thanks very much

Some brilliant photos here and takes me back to 1977 when I climbed Liathach by night then went on to Beinn Dearg and was only stopped by my wise Black Labrador (Fitheach, the Raven) from carrying on to Beinn Alligin. I might have been on it early morning about the same time you were on it - so your photos are a great record for me of what I would have seen. Many thanks!

Thanks Peter. Sounds like a sensible Labrador, there's more than enough of up and down involved in Liathach and Beinn Dearg. My Westie would be too busy rolling in deer poo to make any clever choices like that!

[past my sell by date]

Fabulous! There's no doubt in my mind that dawn/sunrise is THE time to be on the tops. sadly I've only managed it twice and doubt I will again

[Gareth M]

Fabulous! There's no doubt in my mind that dawn/sunrise is THE time to be on the tops. sadly I've only managed it twice and doubt I will again

Thanks! I agree, it definitely is the best time. I'm pretty lucky to have seen those sunrises

[kenny lochaber]

I have to say- these are some of the best photographs I have seen in a long time-if ever there was an advert for the NW Highlands-this is it-supberb