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My partner and I did the entire Fife Coastal Path in June 2024 over about 6 days from North to South. The trip on the whole was very nice, but on the back of some frustratingly unremarkable sections and limited information about which sections these would be, I wrote up some notes about how we would have done the trail had we known more about the area.
Basic logistics:
We used Walkhighlands to follow the trail.
The trail is largely well-marked. There were a small number of instances of symbols of the fife coastal path logo on a backdrop of low tide vs high tide (higher level of blue wavy background) rather than written specification of low vs high tide, which was usually self-evident but is useful to point out.
For water to drink, restocking was usually possible in the occasional pub or café visit, however a small number of water fountains can be found. Though we did not use it, along the trail we found signs pointing us to Refill org uk (too new of an account to post links) for water however nowadays the map seems to only be available through the app.
For water to swim in, keep an eye on water quality online at SEPA.
Newburgh to Newport
Comment: This section of the path stays well away from the coast, at least until reaching the beautiful Oak Wood just to the West of Balmerino. It must be said that this section of the path was nonetheless enjoyable due to its relative remoteness of the forested hilly path. The sections zigzagging between farmland properties were often overgrown. The last section from Wormit to Newport was largely along road though the neighbourhoods did seem vibrant and had several inviting venues strewn across them.
Food and water: Limited options between Newburgh and Wormit, therefore it is best to be well-stocked.
Wild camping: Good places throughout the sections that are not on roads.
Bathing: One area from the riverfront just west of Wormit appeared acceptable.
For next time: There isn't really a way to cleanly and efficiently walk just the nice bits of this section, as they are broken up throughout the section. On the one hand the majority of the non-coastal sections could be skipped by starting/ending the walk in Wormit, with reasonable public transport connectivity. On the other hand, this leaves only the short section between Wormit and Newport which is largely on road. Therefore, if you have time, I'd advise just starting/finishing the walk in Newburgh. If you want to save a day, just start/finish in Newport.
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Newport to St Andrews
Comment: The first part of this section follows a large road from Newport to Tayport, though at least the coast is visible from the relatively high elevation. From Tayport, one enters the Tentsmuir National Nature Reserve, which had some charming bits among the large scale lumbar operations that had clearly occurred, quite inconsistent with its name as a nature reserve. The dunes and complex tides off of the nature reserve were interesting to see a snapshot of, though perhaps we were lucky to see them at relatively low tide. Eventually the trail twists through forests, marshes, and fields before walking along the military properties near and within Leuchars. From Leuchars to St Andrews the main trail keeps you on the side of the road.
Food and water: Many options in Tayport, Leuchars, and a shop with hot rolls in Guardbridge, needless to say St Andrews has plenty.
Wild camping: Best options in or near the Tentsmuir National Nature Reserve
Bathing: Several beaches on the coast of Tayport and the Tentsmuir National Nature Reserve though caution should apparently be exercised with the complex tides and changing water positions.
For next time: Again the initial road from Newport to Tayport and the long road between Leuchars and St Andrews did not seem very coastal at all, despite the last section from Guardbridge and St Andrews at least giving you a glimpse of the coast. The rapid and busy traffic on the latter roads means that much of the time you will find yourself yelling to have yourself heard. Accordingly, you won't miss much by first taking the bus from Newport to Tayport, which gives you more options (and energy) for the final part of this section. Either a bus can be taken from Leuchars to St Andrews, or the time saved on the previous bus can motivate you to follow the much longer -- but much more coastal -- path close to the coast itself from Guardbridge to St Andrews.
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St Andrews to Kingsbarns
Comment: This section was serene, and marks the first true immersion into a coastal path. For some, the intermittent proximity to golf courses will diminish the feeling of spending time in nature, but I personally found solace in enjoying this stretch of land together with golfers, albeit enjoying it in a very different way from them. Just past Boarhills, the trail follows a beautiful riverside walk under a dense canopy of trees.
Food and water: There is a free water fountain at the coast near Kingsbarns, limited options near the town itself.
Wild camping: Only two main places are available, at Buddo Rock just West of the path to Boarhills, and at the derelict cottage just East of the path from Boarhills. Anything else would be conspicuously close to golf courses or a very tight fit for all but the smallest tents.
Bathing: Several beaches including one just as one leaves St Andrews. The water can be easily entered along much of the shore, but it should be noted that few areas are secluded from the vantage points of golfers.
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Kingsbarns to Crail
Comment: A section of pleasant track continuing from St Andrews. Again much of the time is spent near golf courses. This section brought is to the first of our quaint fishing villages.
Food and water: Numerous options in Crail.
Wild camping: There are few options for camping in this section, with the best location being in the Kilminning Coastal Reserve.
Bathing: Good access points along much of the shore, with Balcomie Sands by the Crail Golf Club and the Crail beach itself being memorable.
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Crail to Anstruther
Comment: This section is a hallmark of what the Fife Coastal Trail is remembered as: a coastal path between fishing towns. A great path with great views and great starting/finishing points.
Food and water: Good options at the end points though Crail's are more limited in terms of hours.
Wild camping: Places can be found along the coastal path until reaching the holiday park at the East side of Cellardykes & Anstruther
Bathing: No easy and simple access points until Anstruther but in principle doable.
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Anstruther to St Monans
Comment: Excellent fishing towns (at least for us tourists) and coastal paths with plenty of quaint sites along the way.
Food and water: Availability in the towns
Wild camping: Several areas are doable but are bound to have visitors and dogwalkers until the late evening. Best spots are probably just West of Pittenweem and just East of St Monans by the windmill.
Bathing: In tidal pools either natural or the one east of St Monans.
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St Monans to Lower Largo
Comment: Further quaint villages and sites to visit. In the section from Elie to Lower Largo, follow the beach itself rather than the path among the elevated dune due to the trail itself being frequently overgrown. This is particularly important if it is has been wet in previous days!
Food and water: As in other sections, the towns have plenty of options, though in this case there is also Ardross farm. It is worth timing this section with the Bowhouse market, which has an excellent reputation though we did not manage to visit it.
Wild camping: Several areas along the path from St Monans as well as near Newark and Ardross castles
Bathing: There are several beaches along the way but an eye has to be kept on water quality estimates.
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Lower Largo to East Wemyss
Comment: This section marked the first true betrayal of the name "Coastal Trail" to us. The walk from Lower Largo to Leven was quite pleasant however upon entering the town, we were confronted with a tired holiday-maker beach into an uninviting part of town and finally into an industrial area. Perhaps the new extension of railway to the town will do it well, however the coastal path looks to have been irrevocably interrupted by the industrial parts of the town. Continuing the trail, upon exiting Buckhave you eventually rejoin a coastal path to East Wemyss. This area has interesting coastal rock formations and caves which are worth exploring.
Food and water: Options are ample in Leven if of questionable quality. East Wemyss has only a few stores.
Wild camping: Often near golfcourses but there is good grassland and accessible beach for ample opportunities between Lower Largo and Leven. The Braes of Buckhaven are also a good option as are parts of the coastal walk near East Wemyss however these areas are not particularly secluded.
Bathing: East Wemyss has plenty of options however not always accessible, being dependent on the tide
For next time: Leven can be skipped altogether but due to the limitations of public transport, the best option is probably catch a bus near the centre of Leven to the Southern aspect of Buckhaven to rejoin the route, alternatively it may be worth just catching a taxi at the east end of Leven.
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East Wemyss to Burntisland
Comment: This section has alternating coastal path and uninviting town. The path from East Wemyss to Dysart via the quaint town of West Wemyss is enjoyable. The port of Dysart is a highlight of this area but requires you to walk through Dysart itself, which unfortunately was neither coastal nor pleasant. Again an interesting path with older buildings and beaches stretches between Dysart and Kirkcaldy, but concludes with a short walk through a heavy industrial area. The seashore walk along Kirkcaldy is not beautiful but also not dreadful -- while water is clearly visible, the view of the ebb and flow of the coast is blocked by the levy. Leaving Kirkcaldy, you once again join a nice stretch of coastal path to Kinghorn, but then the road is rejoined until Burntisland.
Food and water: West Wemyss has a café and pub functioning with very limited hours. The café in the port of Dysart is recommended. Kirkcaldy evidently has many options, as do Kinghorn and Burnisland.
Wild camping: Short detours into the forests west of West Wemyss and Dysart could present opportunities, though the latter areas become increasingly populous due to the proximity to Kirkcaldy.
Bathing: Easiest access at the south end of Kirckaldy, in Kinghorn, and in Burntisland.
For next time: In the absence of other acceptable means of transport, a train from Kirkcaldy to Burntisland will not make you miss any key sights and experiences of the path. Alternatively, a bus from Kinghorn to Burntisland would also be reasonable. Unfortunately the industrial and shopping estates here cannot be avoided without taking out large parts of path that would otherwise be well worth walking.
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Burntisland to North Queensferry
Comment: The character of the coastal path is distinctly different from the East Neuk but is pleasant nonetheless all the way to Aberdour. The Silver Sands near Aberdour are fantastic and the nearby hill offers excellent view of the bays. The Beech Avenue to Dalgety Bay may not be coastal but it is thoroughly pleasant. After the initial section of Dalgety Bay, the trail follow streets with well-endowed households but is otherwise largely suburban sprawl that happens to be close to the coast. The paths leading into an industrial aspect of Inverkeithing which itself is not terribly enriching, before walking through industrial estate or with views of industrial estates essentially right up until North Queensferry.
Food and water: Availabilities in the towns, but note that Dalgety Bay is essentially a large suburb and the coastal path strays quite far from the centre where the establishments are.
Wild camping: The Heugh between Burntisland and Aberdour as well the hill just south of Silver Sands beach near Aberdour are options; small secluded areas can be found off of Beech Avenue between Aberdour and Dalgety Bay.
Bathing: Silversands and Aberdour are the main options. Silversands was teeming with aquatic wildlife, several forms of crustaceans, some fish, though also jellyfish were seen.
For next time: Simply catch a bus in east Dalgety Bay, getting off in North Queensferry to avoid suburban sprawl and heavy industry.
***
North Queensferry to Kincardine
Comment: In summary, this section is an atrocious non-coastal trail that winds through the Forth Bridge interchanges then bypasses the Port of Rosyth. The only redeeming features of this half of the section are the towns of Limekilns and Charlestown. The trail again deviates to an A road due to land managed by the Ministry of Defense, returning to the coast around Torryburn. A slight diversion to the lagoons near Valleyfield was nice and Culross, the final town, was pleasant. The final 5 km towards Kincardine may be along the road and not particularly coastal though the reasonably dense forest surrounding it and relative minimal usage made the walk towards the finish line worthwhile.
Food and water: Food available in the towns, except Culross, though Culross has a free water fountain.
Wild camping: Possible in Windylaw Edge and forests near Charlestown, Torryburn, and Valleyfield. The paths of the Torry Bay and lagoons were acceptable.
Bathing: Some water access in Limekilns but this is a very muddy area of the Forth, not particularly pleasant anywhere upstream.
For next time: At risk of having this entire section skipped and missing a noteworthy part of the walk, it is best to take the two busses to Limekilns, then two busses from Charlestown to Torryburn before completing the walk to Kincardine.
Summary of how we would do the trip if we had known the above:
1. Arrive into Wormit, have a nice meal by the coast and walk to Newport.
2. Take bus from Newport to Tayport, enjoy the local park and walk through the Tentsmuir National Nature Reserve
3. Arrive into Leuchars, choose either to take the bus to St Andrews, or walk to Guardbridge then deviate from the main trail to follow the trail among farmland and off the coast, into St Andrews
4. Spend a day in St Andrews, enjoy the beach
5. Walk to Kingsbarns, camp at Buddo Rock or at the derelict cottage past Boarhills. Visit the distillery.
6. Walk to Crail/Anstruther/St Monans/Lower Large: the core of the Fife Coastal Trail
7. Walk to Leven, take a cab to the western parts of Buckhaven or catch a bus from near the centre of town to western Buckhaven to rejoin to route.
8. Walk to East Wemyss, explore the caves; walk to West Wemyss and enjoy the quaint village
9. Walk to the port of Dysart, doing so quickly through Dysart itself
10. Industrial estate on the way into Kirkcaldy cannot be avoided, but a train can be taken to Burntisland or alternatively a bus from Kinghorn to Burntisland
11. Walk to Aberdour, Silver Sands, and into Dalgety Bay. In the eastern parts of the town, catch a bus to North Queensferry.
12. Take two buses to Limekilns, explore the town and its neighbour, Charlestown.
13. Take two buses from Charlestown to Torryburn, explore the lagoons near Lower Valleyfield and spend time in Culross
14. Walk from Culross to Kincardine
