All done in 5 days - well sort of...

[revalation]

I originally hoped to complete this in one go last year but alas having reached Kinlochleven, my boots died, the thunderstorms came then the midges were out in force. I used Beinglas campsite at Inverarnan as my base camp using car and buses to walk it. I prefer using a base camp and hike with day pack in order to cover higher mileage an hence complete in fewer days.

My itinerary was as follows:

Early June 2023
Day 1: Drive to Balloch, train to Milngavie, walk to Balmaha, bus to Balloch, drive back to campsite.
Day 2: Drive to Balloch, bus to Balmaha, walk to campsite at Inverarnan, bus back to Balloch to pick up car and drive back to campsite.
Day 3: Walk from campsite to Bridge of Orchy, catch bus back to campsite.
Day 4: Drive to Ballachulish, bus to Bridge of Orchy, walk to Kinlochleven, bus to Ballachulish, drive back to campsite.
September 17 2024
Day 5: Camped at Red Squirrel campsite, drove to Fort William, bus to Kinlochleven walking back to Fort William, drive back to campsite.

Day 1 Milngavie to Balmaha
Early start catching first train out of Balloch then switching to another train to the start at Milngavie.

Start of West Highland Way

It was a somewhat overcast day which at least kept things cool and the terrain is fairly straightforward. scenery is generally pleasant but the highlights of the day were the deer early on in the walk and coming down the impressive Conic hill with the view across Loch Lomond with all the islands. The sun got out towards the finish at Balmaha so an ice cream was enjoyed in the picnic area at Balmaha while waiting for the bus back to Balloch.

View from Conic Hill across Loch Lomond

Day 2 Balmaha to Beinglas Campsite
Another early start and it needed to be with a long walk up the full length of Loch Lomond ahead. Parked again at Balloch to catch first bus to Balmaha. The first few miles are through some pleasant woodland to Rowardennan then there is more lochside walking and quite challenging up and down terrain. Reaching the Hotel at Inversnaid is a welcome break for a latte and there are plenty of places to sit and enjoy the views across the Loch notably the Inveruglas hydro electric power station on the other side. It was the previous September that I sat on the opposite bank having completed the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way.

Steep drop down

View of The Cobbler (Ben Arthur)

Inveruglas Power Station

Lochside view

Day 3 Beinglas Campsite to Bridge of Orchy
Probably the easiest day with no driving and one bus back to campsite. No pressure to get up after walking the length of Loch Lomond the previous day. As it turned out, I was up and ready to go quite early from the campsite. I was looking forward to seeing the Falls of Falloch early on but after a long dry spell, it was just a trickle. The scenery after Loch Lomond becomes distinctly less wooded and open. The mountains appear more wild and rugged but great viewing on a sunny day. At Bridge of Orchy, there was a bit of a wait for the bus so plenty of time for a pint at the hotel there. The bus arrives only to realise it's fully booked so booked on the next one an hour later so time for another coffee. At least it was a nice sunny day to sit outside chatting to other walkers. Lesson learned with these Scottish City Link buses - book your seat beforehand.

River only a trickle

Lapwing

Approaching Bridge of Orchy

Day 4 Bridge of Orchy to Kinlocleven
After a scenic morning drive through Glencoe to Ballachullish, then another scenic bus ride back to Bridge of Orchy (this time with a pre-booked ticket!), I set off in the blazing sunshine. Scenery today was stunning. Leaving Bridge of Orchy, there's a climb up to Mam Carraigh giving fine views north and west over Loch Tulla and towards Glencoe. After a drop down to Inveroran, we join one of Telford's Parliamentary roads built in the early 1800s - not the ideal surface in boots on a hot day and seems to go on for miles - not much shade either.

Reaching the King's House Hotel at the top of Glencoe was a welcome relief just to sit in a cool room in the shade with a latte. This energised me enough for the Devil's Staircase climb a few miles later. I ran out of water by then so made use of my Sawyer filter to take in some stream water. Dropping down to Kinlochleven, one of power station pipes was leaking slightly spraying out a fountain of water which was a welcome relief at the end of the day. My boots were pretty much falling apart at this point and I acquired a blister or two as well. After a pub meal and pint in Kinlochleven, I caught the bus back to Ballachulish. By the time I drove back to campsite, the thunderstorms had come followed by midge soup - never known midges like it! They were still there next morning when I packed up and headed home. So that was it for 2023 but came back 15 months later to complete the final leg.

View north past Loch Tulla

View NE past Loch Tulla towards Rannoch Moor

Telford's Parliamentary Road

Glencoe Mountain Resort in the distance. King's House Hotel about a mile further on.

Top of Devil's Staircase looking back down to Glencoe

First view of Ben Nevis on WHW

A welcome relief from the heat before dropping down to Kinlochleven

Day 5 Kinlochleven to Fort William
Been waiting all summer for a stable weather forecast in the Fort William area and it finally came in mid-September so travelled up for a 5 night stay at Red Squirrel campsite in Glencoe to complete this final leg as well as do a few other walks. A really early start before dawn to drive to Fort William and catch the first bus leaving at 6:30am to Kinlochleven. Although the earlier forecast was dry and sunny, there was some fog around particularly high up but at least it was dry and quite warm. Although the views were somewhat marred by the mists, the low clouds nevertheless do create a beauty of their own.

View looking back down at Kinlochleven

Ruin at Tigh-na-sleubhaich

Mostly downhill now to Glen Nevis

Glen Nevis. Fort William in the distance

And finally...

So that is it. A super long distance walk. Love Scotland - well at least when the sun shines. My 10th consecutive year of travelling north of the border and yet there is still so much more to explore. Look forward to wherever Scotland takes me in 2025. Happy hiking everyone!