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I had last been up Liathach in October 1990 and prior to that in the late 1970s, so after nearly 34 years to the day, time to revisit one of the mainland’s finest. My previous two ascents had been by the conventional east to west route going no further than Mullach an Rathain. This time, I thought I would go for a bigger expedition, from Meall Dearg all the way to Stuc a' Choire Dhuibh Bhig and include the Northern and Am Fasarinen Pinnacles. Meall Dearg and the Northern Pinnacles are a fairly serious undertaking, so I researched the route using the SMC Highland Scrambles North guidebook, and also Andrew Dempster’s Classic Mountain Scrambles book. The recent report on Walk Highlands by grantbagsmunros on his conquest of Meall Dearg was also quite handy. All set, I just needed some suitable weather which duly arrived at the start of October. It would be a long day so I decided to camp at Shieldaig so as to allow an early start. It’s a pleasant little campsite, mostly motorhomes but with a small tent area.
- Shieldaig - a fine spot to enjoy a pint
After a reasonable night’s sleep, I awoke just before sunrise, had a quick breakfast and got organised. Not a cloud in the sky but certainly a bit chilly, with the windscreen of the car needing defrosting before I set off. After a short drive back up Glen Torridon I arrived at the start point, the car park at the east end of Liathach normally used for western Beinn Eighe. I got going about 7:30am, making the mistake of taking a rough path directly from the car park rather than walking back down to the road and joining the start of the built path. Thankfully, after a couple of hundred metres, I joined the proper path which is excellent and made for easy progress up into Coire Dubh Mòr between Liathach and Beinn Eighe.
- Liathach east ridge in the morning sun
I had a good look at the east ridge of Liathach as this was a possible descent route, although eventually I decided not to use it. It was quite cold, but very clear and still, the only sound being the roaring of stags – it is of course the rutting season. Further up, the path to Coire Mhic Fhearchair branches off to the right. I stayed left, soon passing the first lochan and then striking southwest in the general direction of Coire na Caime. Although pathless and boulder strewn, the going was surprisingly easy. There were a few boggy patches, easily avoided, and the large sandstone boulders were dry and grippy making good stepping stones. The ground rose gradually, with a couple short sharp climbs over steeper heathery escarpments.
- Spidean a' Coire Liath from the lower part of Coire na Caime
Before too long I arrived just east of Loch Coire na Caime and dropped down to cross Glas-toll Lochain. One of the possible routes up Meall Dearg is by a grassy rake on the north flank. This doesn’t get glowing reviews in either of my guidebooks and didn’t look too inviting, so I stayed with the original plan to continue into the upper reaches of Coire na Caime then climb up to the col between Meall Dearg and the first of the Northern Pinnacles.
- Looking up into Coire na Caime, Meall Dearg and northern grassy rake on right
I stayed on the north side of the coire, the going getting increasingly rough and steep, traversing and climbing over boulders and then scree until below the col. It was then just a case of heading straight up to the right, climbing the very steep slope over loose sand and scree, with patches of grass and bare rock providing some grippier respite.
- Ascent route to col below Meall Dearg - it is steep!
There wasn’t a great deal of height to gain, but it was certainly not easy terrain. It was with some relief I hauled myself onto the ridge a few metres above the col on the Pinnacles side. Checking the slope from above with the BAA app, I’d estimate at least 55°, maybe as much as 60° which I consider properly steep.
- Meall Dearg from col
From there it was an easy scramble down to the col and then up to the airy summit of Meall Dearg. There are certainly alternative routes via grassy ledges on the southeastern flank but these also appeared steep, probably loose, and above cliff making it potentially risky. Andrew Dempster’s book suggests that there is an easier route via the northwest face of Meall Dearg. Looking at it from above this does appear to be the case, but I didn’t fancy the extra traverse around the north side to reach it. Anyway, that was the first part of the day dealt with, so I took a bit of time to take in the views and watch a Coastguard helicopter touch down on the flat western shoulder of Mullach an Rathain – a training exercise I assume, as no one got in or out.
- On Meall Dearg, Beinn Eighe and Spidean a' Choire Leith behind
- The northern cliffs of Liathach
The vista from Meall Dearg is spectacular, with the main event, the Northern Pinnacles looming menacingly ahead.
- The Northern Pinnacles
There are four Northern Pinnacles which are actually more like steps in the ridge with very little drop between each. The first Pinnacle is only a few metres high, climbed direct with good rock, good holds not too exposed, so a nice introduction. The second Pinnacle is steeper, also climbed direct on good rock but here the serious situation becomes more apparent. The third Pinnacle is the longest climb, slightly less steep but still very exposed. I followed the SMC guidance to climb direct then move right and finish in a “greasy chimney”. Sounds nasty but it was no problem with good solid rock and although damp, plenty grip and positive holds. So far so good, but now for the crux. Both my guidebooks had the fourth and final Pinnacle as the tricky one especially if taking the direct line to the top. The SMC suggested climbing direct initially and traversing right on a ledge to gain easier rock to reduce it from a Moderate rock climb to a Grade 3 scramble. I tried this but didn’t like the look of the ledge which was narrow and grassy above a big drop so I down climbed to access a ledge near the base which was wider and more secure although still above a big drop. Moving 10m or so round to the right as suggested in Andrew Dempster’s book, I found what looked like a better line. I headed up, initially with easy scrambling but getting progressively trickier. There was a lot of flaking or spalling of the sandstone, and some larger loose blocks, so extreme care was needed with all hand and foot holds. Not the most pleasant part of my climb as it was in shadow with cold, damp and often loose rock, but I took the necessary time to find secure holds and clambered back up into the sunshine atop the fourth Pinnacle without incident.
From there it was a pleasant stroll on up to the summit of Mullach an Rathain past some improbable looking giant angular quartzite blocks sitting on the wide sandstone ridge. Time for a breather, so I finished off my flask of tea and enjoyed yet more spectacular views down into Loch Torridon.
- On Mullach an Rathain, looking northwest to Beinn Alligin and Beinn Dearg
- Southwest to Loch Torridon
There was nobody on the summit, but I could see a few figures making their way over the ridge in the conventional east to west direction. I packed away the climbing helmet and set off east along the ridge going over a few minor tops on the way. Nice easy going down to where the bypass path diverges to the south below the Pinnacles where I resumed scrambling. The Am Fasarinen Pinnacles are completely different compared to their Northern neighbours. Much more friendly in character, in sunshine, warm dry sandstone with excellent grip and for the most part solid with lots of good holds. The SMC guide says that the best scrambling is west to east, the direction I was heading in. I would agree with this, as I climbed several entertaining albeit easy vertical towers which would likely be avoided by coming down less steep ground on the south side when traversing east to west. I was faced with a little bit of easy down climbing, but in general the pinnacles seemed slightly less steep on the east (my descent) side. I think I managed to include all the various pinnacle tops, including the Munro sub-top of Am Fasarinen.
- From Am Fasarinen looking west along ridge - Northern Piunnacles stand out well at end
There is some exposure of course but only a couple of points where a move might take you out over the void of the northern cliffs. All on secure good rock, so exhilarating rather than scary. The last part of the Am Fasarinen traverse goes over a short knife edge, with much verticality on the north side.
- East end of Am Fasarinen Pinnacles
I didn’t meet any other scramblers on Am Fasarinen until the very end of the traverse. Passing would not be a problem as there are plenty of wider sections. You do need to have some consideration for others using the bypass path however as they could be vulnerable to anything dislodged from far above.
Next, the climb up to Spidean a’ Choire Leith over the quartzite boulders, a mere 100m vertical which was good as it had been a long day. I met a few more walkers descending west towards the Pinnacles and had a chat with two guys on the summit one just leaving as I arrived, and one arriving as I was about to leave.
- On Spidean a’ Choire Leith
From there, I continued over the sub-top of Stob a' Coire Liath Mhor, down to the col at 833m above Coire Liath Mhor where the path comes up from the road, and to complete the traverse, I climbed the last 100m to reach the easternmost sub-top of Stuc a’ Choire Dhuibh Bhig. Traverse completed! There were great views over Beinn Eighe from this vantage point and also back westward along the ridge.
- Beinn Eighe from Stuc a’ Choire Dhuibh Bhig
- Final view of the Liathach ridge from Stuc a’ Choire Dhuibh Bhig
I had contemplated continuing down the east ridge as this is listed in the SMC guide as a Grade 1/2 scramble, but it ends with a traverse to the south above cliffs over steep ground with some rough walking to get down to the Coire Dubh Mor path. As I was getting a bit weary by this time I decided that the “tourist” path and a 2km schlep along the road back to the car park would be a more sensible option with less scope for mistakes. I retraced my steps west down to 833m and headed south. The descent path is quite broken and eroded at the top, so considerable care was needed. It is relentlessly steep, so the old knees and descending muscles were getting a workout, but fortunately held up ok. Below about 500m the path improves dramatically, being nicely constructed with steps and much less loose rock around, so I was able to get a bit of a move on. The last road section east along Loch Torridon was not too tiresome and a chance to stretch my legs after the intense descent. And so back at the car, just about 9 hours after setting off. Still time to get to Costa Inverness for a coffee and cake reward, before arriving home by 8 pm via my traditional route over the Lecht.
So in summary, a tough but rewarding route, which packed a lot into its 16.5 km. I wouldn’t recommend the Northern Pinnacles to any hill walkers not accustomed to hard and exposed scrambling though, and certainly something to be avoided in clag, wet and/or windy conditions.
