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The Big Peak of the Hinds above Kinlochleven

The Big Peak of the Hinds above Kinlochleven


Postby Anne C » Tue Oct 22, 2024 9:00 pm

Route description: Sgùrr Èilde Mòr and Binnein Beag, Mamores

Munros included on this walk: Sgùrr Èilde Mòr

Date walked: 01/10/2024

Time taken: 7.5 hours

Distance: 13 km

Ascent: 1017m

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ImageDSC_0446.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

This walk started off as simply a hike into a stunning area which to my shame, I’d always wanted to visit but never had.I love remote lochs so there were two on offer which I was keen to visit – the lower Loch Eilde Mor and the higher lochan - Coire an Lochain - which sits at over 700m and below the peaks of Sgurr Eilde Mor and Sgurr Eilde Beag.I love hearing the sounds of the rut at this time of year.The Big and Little Peaks of the Hinds( as the mountains names translate from the Gaelic)
suggested this area has long been a top spot for stags on the lookout for a harem!

We’d had a tiring 36 hrs with a dash from Glasgow up to Skye on the Monday to see my mother in law after she’d had a minor fall in her Care Home.Thankfully, it was just a grazed knee and given that she has Alzheimer’s, she didn’t even remember it had happened and was in fine spirits.

Over breakfast next morning at our B&B just outside Banavie (Torbeag, a stunning house along the Gairlochy road), the forecast was good so the plan was to do something nice and relaxing as we were quite tired from the travelling. Hence my idea of seeing a bit of that area above Kinlochleven.Years ago, Chris had camped up there after a cross country trek from Corrour, so he loved it of old.

I always think that the drive along the north shore of Loch Leven, heading for Kinlochleven,  is a belter.

ImageView across Loch Leven, Kinlochleven road by Anne C, on Flickr

ImagePap of Glencoe, Kinlochleven by Anne C, on Flickr

Gorgeous scenery with a really impressive array of shapely peaks all around.

ImagePap of Glencoe by Anne C, on Flickr

We had spent 10 days in Alaska earlier in the summer , sailing past the world’s highest coastal mountains.We had been wowed by the truly astounding scenery, gazing at peaks of 19,000 feet (Mount St Elias, at Yakutat Bay) coming straight out of the ocean.

ImageSt Elias range by Anne C, on Flickr


ImageMount St Elias Alaska by Anne C, on Flickr

But I still came home thinking that Scotland’s own coast is right up there, albeit very different in scale.Our mountains are relatively small but they are so ancient, honed like fine antiques. The landscape is more colourful and varied and there’s that interplay of layer upon layer of mountains bathed in ever changing light.

Parked at the start of the walk in Kinlochleven, signposted to the Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall and by 10.20am, we were heading up the path.

It was a stiff but steady pull up through the woodland.The photo below paints the path in a reasonable light but it wasn’t the most pleasant ascent, rubbly and eroded.It’s also wildly braided with deep gullies having formed all over the place so , after 30 mins or so, it was nice to reach the open moorland and enjoy the views and, soon, a much better track.

Almost immediately, we were aware of the roaring of stags.So evocative, that guttural bellowing, as they seek to win and keep the hinds.There were certainly a lot of them on the hunt here!

The classic view back down Loch Leven above the woodland...

ImageAbove Kinlochleven by Anne C, on Flickr

ImageLooking down Loch Leven by Anne C, on Flickr

The path improved and we were soon striding along more easily.

ImagePath to Loch Èilde Mor by Anne C, on Flickr

Ahead and to the left, I could see the normal route to Sgurr Eilde Mor beginning its gradual climb below Sgurr Eilde Beag’s steep slopes.But I was keen to drop down to see Loch Eilde Mor first. Measuring the routes on the OS App, there was very little between the two options in terms of the time it would take us to get to Coire an Lochain.Our way meant very slightly less ascent but about half a km more, distance wise.

At a large cairn we came to the crossroads with a big land rover track coming up from Mamore Lodge and heading for the lower loch so we followed it instead of turning left.In 5 mins we had descended slightly to Loch Eilde Mor.

ImageLoch Eilde Mor by Anne C, on Flickr

It was a beautiful spot, the brisk wind creating streamers across the loch’s surface.The tops of the Glencoe giants were now rearing their heads to the west.It had taken us 90 mins to get here and I reckoned we had another hour ahead to reach Coire an Lochain.

But time to stop for some water and fruit and just admire the place, a perfect area for anyone who craves solitude; there wasn’t a soul around.The colours were gorgeous….tawny and gold against the deep dark blue of the water with the occasional red of Rowan berries.Autumn in all its glory!

A short distance along the lochside, a tiny cairn confirmed the start of the stalker’s path up the open moorland to Coire an Lochain.

ImageAbove Loch Eilde Mor…Aonach Eagach appearing by Anne C, on Flickr

I could see the traditional route below Sgurr Eilde Beag and it seemed a long way away! Now the bristly Aonach Eagach was clearly visible and the views opened up behind us to the Pap of Glencoe and Beinn a Bheithir…

ImagePap of Glencoe and Beinn a Bheithir by Anne C, on Flickr

Zoomed to Buachaille Etive Mor…

ImageBuachaille Etive Mor , sun breaking through by Anne C, on Flickr

We lost the route at one point below a shallow rise, but it was easy enough to pick the best way up.At the top, thankfully, we got re-acquainted with the path.It eventually zig zagged up the side of the Allt Riabach waterfall, pencil thin today, but wide, bare slabs at its base suggested that it must be quite a sight in wetter conditions.

ImageUp by the waterfall by Anne C, on Flickr

Then the easy slope flattened and we found ourselves directly below Sgurr Eilde Mor.

ImageSgurr Eilde Mor by Anne C, on Flickr

What a stunning spot!

ImageDSC_0396.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

The northerly wind was strong up here and really cold, straight from the Arctic so we hunkered down behind a rock to eat our sandwiches. In fact the sunshine of earlier had disappeared as thick cloud came in and a few spots of rain began to fall.

Demolishing lunch, I looked up at the slopes of Sgurr Eilde Mor, it’s summit around 1,000 feet above us.The angle didn’t look too bad on this side of the mountain with a good path initially winding up its southern shoulder.I’d always been put off this hill (being a bit of a mountain feartie by nature) given the description of ‘intimidating’ steepness and loose steep scree.Chris had been up before via the more common northern approach - the ‘steep scree’ side and didn’t think I’d enjoy it.But this side looked ok.

‘I’m for it if you are,’ Chris said, as if reading my mind.It seemed a shame to spend all this time getting here without going to the top so off we set.

The path was excellent initially, taking us further east across wide, easy slopes.Great views opened up too…across to Sgùrr Eilde Beag and down the other side to Loch Eilde Mor…

ImageOn the good path to the shoulder by Anne C, on Flickr

ImageLooking towards Corrour by Anne C, on Flickr

Then it zig zagged uphill, always on wide if steep slopes before we hit the first of about 5 bands of boulders.They were narrow bands but boulders are always a test for my stiff hips! Chris seemed to skip over them (annoyingly) as I picked my way carefully, then we would pick up the path again until the next band.

ImageLooking up towards the summit by Anne C, on Flickr

ImageFinal slopes by Anne C, on Flickr

Craning my neck to look up the steepening slopes, I could see what looked like crags near the top but trusted there was a way through.It wasn’t a tiring climb at all somehow, just a bit awkward underfoot at times. Each boulder field took us onto another level bit of mountainside before the next clamber up. All this time, we were ascending with a crag close to our right but there was no exposure and it all felt steepish but benign.

The crags I’d seen looming overhead also had loads of grassy areas offering easy ways past too.Then suddenly the slope flattened and soft mossy grass led us to the summit cairn where the views were stunning.

ImageSummit views, Sgurr Eilde Mor by Anne C, on Flickr

Beyond the little volcano that is Binnein Beag, Ben Nevis’s summit was wrapped in a tiny cap of cloud one minute, clear the next.

ImageBinnein Beag and Ben Nevis and Aonachs by Anne C, on Flickr

Ben Nevis zoomed below…

ImageBen Nevis and Carn Mor Dearg arete by Anne C, on Flickr

ImageBen Nevis by Anne C, on Flickr

Across the corrie, Binnein Mor looked enormous, a giant of a mountain.

ImageBinnein Mor by Anne C, on Flickr

There was some lovely light over Glencoe, Ben Starav clear too…in fact, clarity was improving all the time…

ImageTowards Glencoe by Anne C, on Flickr

Towards Bridge of Orchy beyond the Blackwater Reservoir…

To the right were the Grey Corries, their pale screes very clear.

ImageGrey Corries by Anne C, on Flickr

Ben Mor on Mull was very clear, visible to the right of Beinn a Bheithir and the Pap of Glencoe…

ImageBen More on Mull, beyond Beinn a Bheithir by Anne C, on Flickr


The Aonach Eagach’s sharp ridge mid distance right…

ImageAonach Eagach by Anne C, on Flickr


Myself, very chuffed to be up here…

ImageMyself by Anne C, on Flickr

I walked out along the narrow spur that gives a superb view down to the lochans with Sgurr Eilde Beag rearing above.Quite a spot! That combination of mountains and water - whether loch or sea- is always the thing for me.

We both peered down the alternative  route off the mountain to the north.There was a very eroded and steep initial section though it didn’t seem to last too long and wasn’t as bad as I thought it might be.I reckoned I could probably shuffle down it on my ‘hin’end’ but finally, we decided better the devil we knew and we’d return the way we’d come up as it was pretty straightforward.

That view of the Lochan below really was stunning and I couldn’t stop taking photos of it…

ImageHeading down by Anne C, on Flickr

ImageDown to Coire an Lochan by Anne C, on Flickr

ImageDSC_0446.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr


On the descent, the boulderfields were fine if I just scuffled down them half standing, half sitting.Didn’t do the seat of my walking trousers much good, as they’ve now got a sizeable hole in them! They’re ancient however so it was about time I got myself a new pair.

ImageLoch Eilde Mor below by Anne C, on Flickr

Great views towards Corrour and Schiehallion, the latter, hazy in this photo…

ImageCorrour ahead by Anne C, on Flickr

Back on the nice path again, a pleasure really to be in such a magnificent area.

ImageHeading down to Coire an Lochan by Anne C, on Flickr

ImageMaking for the loch by Anne C, on Flickr

Had a stop again at the loch, so lovely.

ImageUntitled by Anne C, on Flickr

We also decided to head back via Loch Eilde Mor again and the good stalker’s path …the sun on Glencoe once more.

ImageSun on Glencoe by Anne C, on Flickr

A last close up of Sgurr Eilde Mor…

ImageSgurr Eilde Mor by Anne C, on Flickr

An hour later, we were down at the Big Loch of the Hinds again and the land rover track.

ImageLoch Eilde Mor by Anne C, on Flickr

Once more, it took us about 90 mins from Loch Eilde Mor down to Kinlochleven but a further treat was in store as the late afternoon light was casting beautiful shadows across the glorious views we’d seen earlier and the dramatic peak of Mam na Gualainn.

ImageLooking down Loch Leven by Anne C, on Flickr

ImageSun going down by Anne C, on Flickr

The woodland section need a bit of care whether avoiding eroded gullies or a spider’s web of tree roots.Not a pleasant descent, giving quite awkward walking.However, we were more than compensated the lovely views down Loch Leven as the sun emerged from the cloud and lit up the mountains.

ImageSun breaking through beyond Pap of Glencoe by Anne C, on Flickr

ImageBacklit Pap of Glencoe by Anne C, on Flickr

We were back at the car at 6pm after a quick look at the Grey Mare’s tail waterfall. An unplanned Munro which even now, a few weeks later, I feel quite thrilled to have finally climbed.An amazing area too, exceeding expectations especially given the background soundtrack of the rut at full volume.
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Anne C
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Re: The Big Peak of the Hinds above Kinlochleven

Postby steviesea » Tue Oct 22, 2024 10:48 pm

Loved that :clap: It's a wonderful area and you've captured some excellent photos there. I remember ascending by the standard (steep scree) route , and found it wasn't my favourite part of the day that's for sure, although,after descending back to the high lochan , and I spent ages walking all around it just taking it all in and really enjoyed the day as a whole.
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Re: The Big Peak of the Hinds above Kinlochleven

Postby aaquater » Wed Oct 23, 2024 3:38 am

Some stunning pictures with the contrast and the lighting!

As someone who's traversed over the hill from S to N, I have to say that the S side feels a lot friendlier.
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Re: The Big Peak of the Hinds above Kinlochleven

Postby Alerigg » Wed Oct 23, 2024 7:21 am

Outstanding pictures and a really enjoyable read. An area I first walked in fifty years ago at this very time of year and roaring stags still take me back to there. I MUST go back! Thank you.
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Re: The Big Peak of the Hinds above Kinlochleven

Postby kevsbald » Wed Oct 23, 2024 8:48 am

Did a wild camp beside that lochain many years ago; was a fabulous spot. You’ve reminded me to go back!
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Re: The Big Peak of the Hinds above Kinlochleven

Postby Starfish » Wed Oct 23, 2024 5:30 pm

Thankyou for this, Anne - a beautifully descriptive write up of a fabulous walk - and those photos: Wow! Lochan Coire an Lochain is such a beautiful spot; I'll never forget the feelings that arose in me the first time I came across it and I never lose that sense of awe tot his day.
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Re: The Big Peak of the Hinds above Kinlochleven

Postby Mal Grey » Thu Oct 24, 2024 8:35 pm

Some truly wonderful images, so many layers, such fabulous patterns of light. As always, the description is brilliant too.

I've never done these either, just never got round to that end of the Mamores.
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Re: The Big Peak of the Hinds above Kinlochleven

Postby Anne C » Fri Oct 25, 2024 8:16 am

steviesea wrote:Loved that :clap: It's a wonderful area and you've captured some excellent photos there. I remember ascending by the standard (steep scree) route , and found it wasn't my favourite part of the day that's for sure, although,after descending back to the high lochan , and I spent ages walking all around it just taking it all in and really enjoyed the day as a whole.


Many thanks Steviesea - glad you enjoyed the report and photos.Yes, it’s a hard area to leave down by that lochan.Very special.


aaquater wrote:Some stunning pictures with the contrast and the lighting!

As someone who's traversed over the hill from S to N, I have to say that the S side feels a lot friendlier.


Aaquater - thank you! The light was great, ever changing the whole day, hefty clouds at times, then blue skies- probably my favourite kind of day for a hill walk.
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Re: The Big Peak of the Hinds above Kinlochleven

Postby Anne C » Fri Oct 25, 2024 8:26 am

Alerigg wrote:Outstanding pictures and a really enjoyable read. An area I first walked in fifty years ago at this very time of year and roaring stags still take me back to there. I MUST go back! Thank you.


Alerigg - many thanks for kind comments.Even to the Lochan itself was well worth it but it seemed relatively little extra effort to head for the summit on the south side.After the woodland section, the angle of ascent seemed very mild.

kevsbald wrote:Did a wild camp beside that lochain many years ago; was a fabulous spot. You’ve reminded me to go back!


Kev -we had actually planned a wild camp up there several years back but I took cold feet as we drove through Glencoe and just wanted an easy. weekend camping at the coast, so we made for Mull.Always felt guilty about that but I was getting to the stage that lugging a lot of gear (we rarely travel light😃) up to 750m just didn’t appeal.I’ve never enjoyed carrying heavy gear, having done years of it.
But what a spot for a wild camp - hope you make it back there!
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Re: The Big Peak of the Hinds above Kinlochleven

Postby Anne C » Fri Oct 25, 2024 8:34 am

Starfish wrote:Thankyou for this, Anne - a beautifully descriptive write up of a fabulous walk - and those photos: Wow! Lochan Coire an Lochain is such a beautiful spot; I'll never forget the feelings that arose in me the first time I came across it and I never lose that sense of awe tot his day.


Thank you so much Starfish - it’s an incredibly photogenic area! And the light was superb.Yes, hugely impressive place.From another source, I had a comment from a well travelled American chap who was in a stalking party some years back and was roaming over the wider area.He commented that it was one of the most beautiful valleys he’d seen anywhere in the world.

Mal Grey wrote:Some truly wonderful images, so many layers, such fabulous patterns of light. As always, the description is brilliant too.

I've never done these either, just never got round to that end of the Mamores.


Mal - kind words, many thanks indeed and lovely to know you enjoyed the report and photos! I think you would love that area, very wild yet such a nice easy ascent to the Lochan (after the short slog up through the woodland.) Great walking country even at a lower level.
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