You should definitely do Cruach Ardrain Stob Garbh Circular

[The English Alpinist]

The clouds cleared to reveal this: Munro top Stob Garbh, as seen from Cruach Ardrain.

This walk was preceded by 'A Late-October Ben More and Tops Tour'
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=126939

After two successful days around Crianlarich which I would not have bet my house on, I was inspired to finish with a flourish, and that meant this pair of Munros rather than the originally intended Ben Challum (I now think that may be a good frozen ground winter option!). An out-and-back over both looked to be straightforward, weather permitting (and it was at least 'permitting'), but I was toying with an ambitious route to link to Beinn a' Chroin east top and descending from that, since I omitted that top out of fatigue and anxiety in a tough winter treble of Chabhair, Chroin and Caisteal 3 years ago. I was worried about the off-track descent and reascent this would entail, though, not so much the steepness danger but the danger of getting lost and tired in mist (mindful of how that could happen from my Bealach an Frithe mini-crisis yesterday). An alternative embellishment I contemplated would be coming back over Stob Garbh (Cruach Ardrain's subsidiary top), just for the aesthetic value and the sake of avoiding out-and-back - not realizing that it was in fact an official top, and needed doing if I want to be a toppist one day! Well, having reached Beinn Tulaichean, I indeed ruled out Chroin as there was no visibility and I did not wish to slay myself again, and its east top alone can be easily reached on a separate mission anyway.

Now get this. By the time I returned to Cruach Ardrain's ridge cairn, I had the choice whether to go down the same way or via Stob Garbh, all the time wondering why its big separation had not earned it the classification of a 'Munro top'. The thing that worried me with it was that very steep drop of about 600 feet into the bealach - to be negotiated in mist, pathless and not sure of a safe line. I was about to not do it, but then that tell-tale lightening of the grey started to happen and I thought, 'Hey, I am going to get visibility here'. I ventured back up to Cruach Ardrain's summit proper, by which time indeed the clouds were parting, and a spectacular view of Garbh and said bealach steadily materialized. That slope was very much doable! So I did it. I realized, only back at the youth hostel, that Stob Garbh is very much the official Munro top to Cruach Ardrain. And there we have another masterful example of planning by me! On a serious note, I do sometimes feel somebody smiles upon us, if we perservere through the hits of fatigue or those grimy and angry spells of weather, a day often seems to end in spectacular reward. This one ended in the most divine and windless inversion along the Stob Garbh ridge, which I could barely have imagined whilst in the clag and wind-blasting the first time of asking at Ardrain's summit.

Seriously - do this route! Cruach Ardrain with Stob Garbh horsehoe (tagging Beinn Tulaichean as an optional but pretty easy duo Munro there-and-back), but probably only in visibility, and anti-clockwise. I would not like to go down to the bealach in mist, and would not fancy going up it at all, exertion-wise more than the danger. I found the descent surprisingly safe, despite how it looks from above and below. I would say, for example, that An Stuc (Lawers range) which it reminded me of, is more dangerous, and the link from Stuc a' Chroin to Ben Vorlich certainly is, even though the contours are much the same.

That said, I was tempted to pack it in in the first hour. This was consequence of skimming an old edition of McNeish's Munros the night before in the youth hostel to get my access point. Access it I did, but only after a cussing and sweating tramp through swamp, felled forest, unfelled forest, firebreaks made from sponge, and even a quarry. A woman and her Dad I met half way up (commemorated on my map, and the only two folk I saw all day) enlightened me of the far simpler modern access route, bypassing the forest altogether. Later, I managed to also put a sting into the tail of my beautiful finish, by trying to be too cute and descend from off the very end of the ridge (701m) instead of cutting down to a good track sooner. A couple of wet tumbles on the raw heath and then a little taste of the Forest of the Dead resulted, but apart from these minor abberations I wholeheartedly recommend this route. Have I said that?

Thus ends this report, now let the pictures tell the story...

A terrific route, but it's best to start in the correct place (green circle, 10 o'clock).

Note - '284'. Green inset describes the current access point.

I trusted the old edition; penalty incurred.

Penalty incurred.

Was not going to top up my breakfast with that.

En route over Meall Dhamb at 814 metres.

Cruach Ardrain. It was quite ferocious up there. Well, it's November, as good as.

This is one of two cairns which are not the summit, not quite yet.

This definitely was the summit, Cruach Ardrain, 3,432 feet (1046m).

Easily reached, Munro #2: Beinn Tulaichean, 3,104 feet (946m).

The clouds clear to reveal Stob Garhb and a descent to the bealach which is doable.

I came down that; it was okay.

Munro top, Stob Garbh (959m): Ben More and Stob Binnein over there.

Looking back at Cruach Ardrain.

Along to Stob Coire Buidhe (857m).

Makes it all worthwhile.

Heading to the 701m point.

They were as content as I was.

Don't go down this way.

Penalty incurred.

Track ahoy.

Postscript

This walk possibly only happened because the young chap running Crianlarich Youth Hostel that day invited me to leave my kitbag around the side of the building. So, a thanks to him. The hostel had been booked out by a party, arriving 4 p.m., so I couldn't leave it inside as I wouldn't be back in time. Crianlarich Hotel may have been an option, but short of that somewhere hidden in shrubbery! This may seem trivial, but such things can all too easily give excuse in my case to not bother walking at all and resign myself to a pleasant 'day off'. You may have gathered, I am pleased to have got this walk done! I had to travel onward that evening by bus to Arrochar (well, Tarbet, then a walk-through to Arrochar), able to find decent-value accommodation only there for this night, a Friday night. That was Lochside Guest House - simple, excellent, comfortable. A shout-out also to Arrochar Tea Room, which was my only ambition for my last day. The proprietor is a humourous fellow, and his wife and daughter provide service with a smile. I'm looking forward to basing myself around there one day (again) for the area's Corbetts (have done the Alps, in p*****g summer rain). I am beginning to enjoy the organizational challenges and adventure of travelling without car.

[Colin1951]

As always, I enjoyed your Cruach Ardrain story. Also a good pair from the south, but not without your own transport! My preferred approach uses the cattle crossing a mile or so further south from Crianlarich , then up a nice solid track as though heading for An Caisteal. Where the forest ends on your left, there’s a splendid bridge which lets you sidle up the edge of the trees to join your route on to the Grey Heights. Still a bit boggy but no tree wrestling.
You mentioned Ben Challum - have a look at the NW ridge, a much more aesthetic way up the hill which leaves the apocalyptic bogs for the descent- although you can avoid them by descending west from the south top back down to the sheep fanks.

[HalfManHalfTitanium]

Great report - very atmospheric photos!

Cruach Ardrain is one of my favourite hills in the southern Highlands. When my knee gets fixed, I'll be going there again, so good to know that the Stob Garbh ridge is worth doing.

Note that there is a very easy, forest-free and scenic route onto the Grey Height ridge from near Crianlarich - https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=81151

thanks for posting!

Tim

[The English Alpinist]

Yes guys, the forest-free approach you mention sounds like the way the couple I met on Grey Heights had come (probably in about half the time of me). I just realized I need to amend the finish to my map. I did not come back to that point, thankfully, but once I hit the forest track it brought me around just to the east of Crianlarich. 'The Inverardran Forest Trial'. There's no reason at all for an uncomfortable finish to my route. Just come off the ridge well before '701m'.
The bealach just needed care not to slip (it was mostly grassy), but it will test the knees and you don't want to go offline to the south (crags).
Colin, I was contemplating leaving out Tulaichean and doing it from the south one day, but it's such an easy link up I'm glad I got it in. I may well return to do Beinn a' Chroin east top from the south.

[jmarkb]

The latest edition of the SMC Munros guidebook gives clear instructions about the routes through the forestry on/off both the Grey Heights and Stob Garbh ridges, which I have followed without problems. It also suggests that if you start from the Crianlarich side and want to include Beinn Tulaichean and Stob Garbh, then you can avoid reascending Cruach Ardrain (and its steep NE side) by cutting across below the E face from the Cruach Ardrain - Beinn Tulaichean col to the Cruach Ardrain - Stob Garbh. I have not tried this though: I usually approach from the south if doing the pair. You can also include Stob Garbh from this direction: the easiest line follows the twin burns towards the 925m top. The NE side of Cruach Ardrain (in ascent) is a good mountaineering-type route in winter conditions if that is your thing!

[The English Alpinist]

if you start from the Crianlarich side and want to include Beinn Tulaichean and Stob Garbh, then you can avoid reascending Cruach Ardrain (and its steep NE side) by cutting across below the E face from the Cruach Ardrain - Beinn Tulaichean col to the Cruach Ardrain - Stob Garbh.

Yep I can see from the map how you might do that. I didn't occur to me at the time, and I wouldn't fancy that terrain in mist and it looks riddled with bogs too. May be easier just to go over the top since it's such a good path (to the summit at least). There's usually many more options than the standard paths it seems. I don't think you can go wrong with a good map such as Harvey's sw, so long as you read it well, and certainly do not rely on old text books!

[RayK]

Great bit of writing and good pics. I've got Cameron McNeish's book as well and with a couple of roures that I followed his ears would have been ringing. Very nice chap though. A great read is Moonwalker Adventures Of A Midnight Mountaineer by Alan Rowan - gives much food for thought!

[weedavie]

My favourite route for these is the Inverlochlarig glen, practically to the bealach, then Stob Garbh from the north-east. That threads nicely up through outcrops. On to Cruach Ardrain by the steep eroded path. I'd agree the path is less intimidating than An Stuc but it seems much longer. Once when it was under snow, I went up the slope to the right of the path, which turned out quite straightforward and seemed easier.

It's worth descending Beinn Tuilaichean to the east, about 100 metres after the summit. It doesn't feel as interminable as the route to the south east and intercepts the track 50 metres higher.

[Dave Hewitt]

it looks riddled with bogs too

No, it's not particularly boggy - jmarkb's suggestion is a good one, it's an interesting and useful route. I've done the col-col thing several times over the years - not sure how many offhand, probably four or five, maybe half a dozen. Mostly S-N, having crossed Cruach Ardrain from the Crianlarich side and continued out to Beinn Tulaichean, as you did, then fancying a varied way back. I've gone the other way too, though, and it's nice however you do it. The two cols are much the same height (the CA-SG one is slightly higher), so it a pretty logical route as it's a fairly straight line although it does involve a bit of undulating to weave through various craggy bits. But it's all very easy, and if done in spring there can be some useful snow patches to cut a few corners. I've just checked a set of timing notes from a day in August 2016 and I got between the cols in 40 minutes - clearly timings are subjective, but I'm fairly sure however fast or slow one is it's faster than crossing Cruach Ardrain twice.

Incidentally, and it's a personal preference, but I'd much rather head up to Cruach Ardrain from the Stob Garbh col than go down the way - and I reckon I still thought that 30 or more years ago when I had better knees than I do now!

[The English Alpinist]

Very interesting the options we have with routes and the subjective outlooks we have depending on things like aesthetics, bagging, vertigo and knees! Thanks for the comments guys.