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A sunny weather forecast for Thursday had me looking for a suitable walk and perusing my various SMC publications as well as the Walk Highlands site. I settled for Beinn Damh, a nice little Torridon Corbett. Quite a short route but with an optional scramble up the NE shoulder if weather and ground conditions were suitable when I got there.
And so on Wednesday evening I found myself in the Ledgowan Bunkhouse again, having made a last minute booking to avoid a long early morning drive from Aberdeenshire. There was a recent thread in the General Discussion forum about Highlands accommodation, this place is a good option, with plenty availability at this time of year. Of 5 rooms, I was the only lodger. It’s basic but a whole lot better than camping at -5C.
No need for a really early start. There were no other guests to disturb with my crashing around in the kitchen, so I had a small fry-up. I was on the move by daybreak and after a 35 minute drive, arrived at the carpark at the Torridon Hotel. I did stop and take a couple of photos en route, the big Torridon hills were looking fine in the early light.
- Liathach - only visiting its little brother today though
It was a cold, clear morning, no wind yet although it was forecast to pick up through the day.
I set off at around 8:15am making my way through the hotel buildings, over the bridge, through the woods on the marked path, across the road and onto the stalkers’ path. It’s a very pleasant climb up through the Scots Pine wood beside the gorge. Near the top there is a fine waterfall, glimpses of which can be seen through the trees.
- Taken on the return leg when I got myself a better view through trees and had more light
Once through the trees, the path forks. This is where my route deviated from the WH one. I took the left-hand branch which was still a nice path but with a fair bit of ice. Icy patches were to be a theme of the day, a result of recent snow, thaw and re-freeze. Fortunately, it was easy enough to walk just to the side of the path and avoid the large tracts of ice. The path forded the Allt Coire Roill 100m or so after the fork. This was no problem as there wasn’t too much of a spate. Just needed to select the stepping stones not iced over. Slightly underwater ones always safest. On the other side I made a slight navigational error. The path doubles back towards the waterfall before turning southeast to climb towards the Drochaid Coire Roill, but I continued on a fainter track heading upstream beside the burn. I soon realised this was a mistake as my path petered out, so after consulting the map I headed east across country away from the burn to regain the path. This involved crossing a few 100 metres of pathless terrain which was easy in the frozen conditions, but likely boggy otherwise. If you come this way, just follow the main path.
More ice avoidance required on the climb up, but I made decent progress, stopping occasionally to look back on the fine vista of the big Torridon mountains behind. Beinn Alligin is particularly prominent from here.
- Beinn Alligin
- Liathach, Beinn Eighe behind
Before too long I was up at the little lochan in the Drochaid Coire Roill.
- Lochan in Drochaid Coire Roill - Maol Chean-dearg ahead
I had some tea here and considered the best route ahead. The SMC Highland Scrambles North book has the scramble route up the NE Spur starting low down, accessed by heading right (southwest) below the cliffs of Meall Dubh na Drochaid, a low ridge connecting to the NE spur at a saddle on the east side.
- Low ridge of Meall Dubh na Drochaid leading to Stuc Toll nan Biast
The lower part of the SMC route sounded like a fairly difficult Grade 3 from the description. It was also in shadow and appeared to have a fair bit of ice coating some of the rock, so I decided to give this a miss. Instead, I continued on the path a short distance before climbing up onto the ridge of Meall Dubh na Drochaid over various sandstone tiers.
- Climb up onto Meall Dubh na Drochaid
This was an easy but entertaining little scramble. As usual with Torridonian sandstone the rock is grippy with plenty holds. There was some ice, but nothing that couldn’t be avoided. The grassy ledges between the sandstone were frozen and secure underfoot with plenty grip – probably much better than if just soaking wet based on my recent Torridon scrambling experiences
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- On the broad ridge of Meall Dubh na Drochaid
I made my way over Meall Dubh na Drochaid dropping down to the saddle and slanted up to the right to rejoin the SMC scramble route at the highest point of a large grassy shelf, quite far over to the right.
- Approximate route up the NE Spur, Stuc Toll nan Biast
There was an initial clamber up a sandstone rib, maybe 7 or 8m of steep and sustained but easy rock climbing. It was complicated slightly by the occasional patch of ice rendering holds unusable, but still plenty of secure holds available so no problem. Not exposed, but obviously you wouldn’t want to slip off near the top. After this, it was more of the same, relatively easy climbing up sandstone tiers separated by grassy ledges. Once again, the frozen condition of the grassy ledges was a good thing.
- Looking back down the NE Spur, lochan in the Drochaid Coire Roill in centre of photo
There were various options on the route, so it was just a case of avoiding the iciest sections of rock.
- Upper section of scramble, less steep here
From 700m, there was a light covering of snow, but by this time the slope was relenting, and I soon emerged onto the quartzite section, a big pile of smallish boulders which led up onto the ridge of the NE spur, or Stuc Toll nan Biast as it is named on the 25k OS map.. The wind, which I had not noticed earlier, started to get strong and the occasional gust was enough to knock me over on the snow-covered boulders. I adopted a Sméagol-style all fours gait which did the trick.
- Ridge up to the summit of Spidean Coire an Laoigh
The walk along the short ridge to the summit cone of Spidean Coire an Laoigh was surprisingly exposed especially considering the gusty wind and snow covered terrain. Steep and craggy on both sides but particularly so on the northwest. In fact, Beinn Damh has very much a mini-Liathach feel to it, although the “tourist route” by which I was to descend makes the hill more accessible.
- Maol Chean-dearg and An Ruadh Stac from Stuc Toll nan Biast
The final climb to the summit at 903m was over yet more quartzite boulders. Looking back at the line from the west, it looks extremely steep, but the cliffs are bypassed, just a moderate bouldery slope to clamber up. Strangely, the wind dropped considerably on the summit, so I spent some time taking in the views, Maol Chean-dearg and An Ruadh Stac looking particularly impressive to the east and southeast and great views southwest over Loch Kishorn to Rum. The Skye Cuillins were just visible too.
- On the summit looking northwest
- Looking southwest over Loch Kishorn, Rum Cuillin on horizon in distance
Next, I made my way along the main ridge heading northwest, first descending on boulders to another narrow section which then broadened before climbing up to the northwestern Top at 868m. It was windy again here with some snow getting blown around.
- Looking back at Spidean Coire an Laoigh from NW Top
- Looking northwest over Sgurr na Bana Mhoraire and Loch Torridon
I then headed due west off this Top to reach the descent path which runs along the southwest flank of the mountain. Here I encountered a fairly large patch of steep, hard snow. I had taken the precaution of carrying crampons and axe all the way round, so I deployed them for the first time this season. Two minutes later I was at the path and packing the crampons away. I could have walked around the snow, but I was getting fed up with walking on slippery quartzite blocks, and this patch of snow was too long and steep to try to walk down without winter gear. Worth the faffing around I thought, and a chance to try out my new La Sportiva Karakorums with crampons.
After that, just a walk back on the path which is described in the WH route for both up and down directions. I contemplated a short excursion up Sgurr na Bana Mhoraire which must be an excellent viewpoint over Loch Torridon, but decided to head down so I could get a fair bit of the return drive done in daylight. The steepest part of the path as it heads northeast off the ridge was eroded and quite icy so a lot of care was needed to negotiate it without mishap.
- Eroded and icy path
The frozen ground was helpful though (so long as it wasn’t ice-covered of course). Once off this nasty section, the path condition improved dramatically and it was a pleasant stroll back to the top of the forest, albeit with a constant eye out for icy patches. Here I met the only person I saw on the hill all day, a lady who had walked up through the forest and kept going – she wasn’t planning on going much further.
I was back at the car just after 1:30pm and had a look in the café/bar at the hotel which appeared to be open but was deserted, so instead just set off for home.
Beinn Damh turned out to be a fine and not so little mountain, very much in the style of its bigger neighbours, just a shorter day. I was also pleased with my route selection, much more interesting than going out and back via the path and I’d recommend it for anyone who doesn’t mind a bit of scrambling.
- Beinn Damh - a fine Torridon mountain
