Is this mid January?? Beinn na Lap

[The English Alpinist]

Looking over to the Grey Corries from Beinn na Lap.

Route obvious, except I came all the way down the ridge SW to avoid mush.

That time of year had come round again; time for a winter Munro expedition, a time of serious cold and lots of snow and heightened danger. Only, when I got there, I found none of the above. At the time of booking my trip up, three weeks prior, there was obviously no guarantee what I would get from the elements but when the day came I knew the arctic blizzard snap had passed and the immediate forecast was very good. Still, an Englishman travelling all the way up there without crampons or axe would surely be a foolish one, so I brought them. Along with four days supply of food and winter clothing, spare clothing and even my damn laptop (for photo editing), I brought them.

These banal details are of significance, for I was once again giving the car a rest and making use of public transport and budget accommodation, which meant carrying everything at the very least to the first 'base camp' and away from the last. On this occasion it was the excellent Ossian Youth Hostel accessed by train to the moorland outpost station of Corrour, followed by 1 mile walk to it, which was duly accomplished in the dark off the 9:20 pm Scotrail arrival from Glasgow. Unfortunately, a fourth night there was not available, so I had to find elsewhere. The nearest that came up on my booking.com search was Kinlochleven (we're excluding bothies here, this is mid January), which would entail a 12-mile walk across the wilds with all my stuff on day three; no matter, no problem, I reckoned.

Do bear with me - this organizational stuff is even more interesting than the walk itself, I think, in the case of Beinn na Lap anyway - for the exciting challenge was what could I achieve by leaving my excess gear behind on each of the first two days at the hostel, and then having to carry it all with me on the third day? (maybe also the fourth if I tried to squeeze in a walk before the return trip). Well, the plan was some combination of Beinn na Lap, one of the pair of Munros either side of Loch Treig, and tagging on the Corbett Leum Uilliem and one of the two Grahams of the area at some point. Then, if I had spirit and prowess left, maybe something from Kinlochleven on day four, utilising bus to get me to Glencoe in time for my Citylink coach home.

First, enjoy with me the mighty Munro, Beinn na Lap, in mid January...

Leisurely departure from Loch Ossian Hostel at midday.

Beinn na Lap, southern flank (this photo taken tomorrow).

I was not the only one; Glaswegian Duncan up there ahead of me.

Up on the ridge and glad to be (ascent was mush).

Closing in on the summit.

Beinn na Lap, 3,068 feet (935 metres).

Summit is reached; that's not me, that's Duncan from Glasgow.

I was not tempted by Chno Dearg and Sgriodain behind me. Maybe if I'd started earlier.

After my long journey and late arrival, I succumbed to the instinct to have a lay in, such luxury was Loch Ossian Youth Hostel. This meant the distant Loch Treig pair was off and I had time for only Beinn na Lap or Leum Uilliem. It was crucial to get at least one Munro under my belt to show for the travel and bookings, so off I went. I was not alone; a jolly chap called Duncan was up there on the ridge ahead of me, one of a gang of four mature Scots gents who were lodged with me that night. It had started foggy, it had benevolently cleared by the time we were at the summit, and the views were spacious and grand. That's about it. Utterly no need for crampons or axe, but I'd lugged them up with me just for the discipline. The flank of the mountain was mush after the great thaw of the last few days (or is maybe always mush) and the summit was quite cute with its tiny lochan I thought. It did torment with me the notion that the Chno Dearg - Stob Coire Sgriodain pairing, which was there to see in its glory, would have been doable from here if I'd cared to have got up much earlier, and would have been a great descent down the north ridge to reach them. However, I told myself these were moments to simply enjoy, and what's more the perfect view of the other Munro pair gave me confidence in the obvious route around them for tomorrow. I soaked up as much mid January sunshine and windchill as I could stand, before descending straight down the ridge this time in the hope of there being less mush than on the flank; there was, but it was also a bit rougher and probably took a little longer. Didn't matter! Great day, great start.

I could barely believe this was mid January, though. For the last three weeks I'd been psyching myself up for the classic challenges and perils that winter Munros bring, reading of rescues in the early part of the month from the English Lake District let alone wildest Scotland, and wondering whether I should even do winter expeditions anymore. Indeed, word at the hostel confirmed that in the previous week the entire Loch was frozen over, everything was snow blanketed, and people were cutting steps up the initial flank of Beinn na Lap. Being still a relative stranger to Scotland in winter, I wondered if such changeability and thaws were the norm, or whether this was global warming in action. I could well believe how quickly the snow can come (I've had an experience or two in the Lake District), but found it hard to believe it could vanish so completely so fast. Obviously, if temperatures are above zero even at the tops, then it can't exist. It would be back later in the month I believe. I couldn't decide whether I'd been lucky or unlucky, but I felt I had no excuse not to attempt the 'Stobs' from this southern end tomorrow, especially as I really could have had a bonus two already in the bag today so benign were the conditions. I'd chosen this area precisely because I reckoned na Lap at least, and Leum Uilleim would be doable in almost anything mid January could offer, and it offered this.

Planning to do those two tomorrow: Stobs Easian & Mheadhoin from Ossian.

On the descent, and train to Fort William is trundling through the valley.

Conical peak must be Binnein Beag in the Mamores?

Corbett, Leum Uilleim is planned for my Friday walk through to Kinlochleven.

Spot the railway station; Corrour can look more wild and desolate than this.

Picnic anyone, in mid January?! Finish back at Ossian Hostel.

Did I mention this was mid January? Windchill was -9, but still.

This walk is followed by 'Hermits, Stobs and Lodges; Two Treig Munros'
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=127811

[HalfManHalfTitanium]

Great photos - and a dramatic change in conditions from a few days before!

Tim

[johnbythell]

Yes I was over on Mayar and Driesh the same day, with literally no snow underfoot (also feeling a bit sheepish carrying my ice axe), incredible how complete the thaw has been so quickly! There still were a few patches of snow left on Mt Keen on the Thursday, but very little. If it wasn't for the wind chill I'd have been in shorts and t-shirt. Thanks for the report - I must do that train ride to Loch Ossian some time

[The English Alpinist]

- I must do that train ride to Loch Ossian some time

I highly recommend Loch Ossian Hostel (in summer I expect you'd have to book well in advance). There's several bothies around the area too if that appeals. I found Ben Alder Cottage had only 4 other guests in August. The two trains a day seem very reliable, and it's probably possible to squeeze in Beinn na Lap or the Corbett between trains on the same day.
Tim - I hope you knees are coming along OK.