Two Treig Munros from the South

[The English Alpinist]

There they are: the Munro pair, Stob Coire Easian and Stob a' Choire Meadhoin across Loch Treig.

This walk was preceded by 'Is this mid January?? Beinn na Lap'
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=127796

With such clement conditions, given the time of year (mid January if you remember), some serious Munro accomplishment needed to get done. Not that Beinn na Lap (yesterday) is not capable of being a serious mountain if it wants to be, but today's pair was, I felt, of a different order. Firstly, they are significantly higher, above 3,500 feet and in the top 50, and secondly it was a fair route march to get onto them from Loch Ossian Youth Hostel. One always needs to think twice about the 'back door' approach to a mountain (these two are almost always done from the north and established paths), but with no snow around and good visibility with only moderate wind this was very doable. On the plus side, they are 'joined at the hip' (as McNeish puts it) with a high simple bealach, and I had identified a good possible descent which I hoped would be easier and quicker than returning the same way: passing between Easian's south ridge (my ascent route) and the Creagan a' Chaise. This would be an interesting day for sure; a sense of the back of beyond - and more, as we shall see.

Today: a pair of Stobs by Loch Treig.

The Allt a' Chamabhreac.

Creag Ghuanach - a Graham - possibly to be tagged on today.

The abandoned Creaguaineach Lodge. Homely.

I did not set off very early for this lengthy walk (10:30 am) but felt I did not need to. Another plus for it is that there's a nice gravelly track for 4 miles as far as Creaguianeach Lodge at the base of Loch Treig, not far from my access to the Easian ridge, so who cared if I had to negotiate that in the dark at the end. The abandoned lodge is named after the mountain that towers over it, Creag Ghuanach (or is it possibly the other way round?), and which I had ambitions to tag onto this walk but had probably blown by my lazy start. Didn't matter, the Munros were priority number one and I might not have had the energy anyway. I made the lodge in 90 minutes, passing by another residence on the way - that of the 'Hermit of Loch Treig', one Ken Smith. One of the nice aspects of using proper accommodation myself is conversation; the previous night, Duncan the Glaswegian had been talking about him (and bothies and ghosts and mice), and it was fascinating to see him out there as I went by. I did take a photo, but will not post it here: it's the guy's home after all and one presumes he's chosen the place for the privacy. He wrote a book, though, so I guess is not worried about a bit of publicity: I bought it at the end of my trip; more about this tomorrow.

It has begun in earnest: gaining the south ridge of Stob Coire Easian.

High on the south ridge; what if this was a bad winter's day??

Stob Coire Easian, 3,658 feet (1115m).

Stob a' Choire Mheadhoin, 3,625 feet (1105m).

I have to confess to a feeling of unease as the expanse of Loch Treig opened up before me. I am not sure how much of this was discussion of hauntings, or just my yearly increasing sense of mortality, the isolation of that place, and not least the time of year of course; a friendly mid January, but chilly and lacking human presence (aside from Ken) nevertheless. The two Stobs are not especially difficult mountains even from this direction, but the sight of them made me nervous, and maybe the best word to sum up how I felt in that place was 'small'. I was an intruder - a visitor at best - and I tried to keep that in mind as I briefly nosed around inside the lodge. Some substance was given to my feelings during the access to the ridge beyond the lodge, where any semblance of a footpath dissipated and a dodgy mini-scramble up on to the moorland slog followed. This section was not for long, though, and once up on the ridge it was really a pretty enjoyable and routine double-Munro walk with bealach, in cloudy but not hostile conditions. My proposed descent route had to go right, though.

That feeling; emerging from the mist and delighted to see my descent route.

I see the col I need.

At the col, the sun still high(ish).

View of Creag Ghuanach again; last bit of steep down - it was no trouble.

My descent went beautifully! Full marks to me for the route and having the conviction to follow it through and not backtrack. I do not know how much longer the latter would have taken, but I was down and back at the lodge before night fell. I can confirm this is a good way down, and even if the cloud was lower it could have been done by compass (if a bit scarily). It's an impressive basin, but not nearly as swampy as you might expect. My main concern had been the final steep bit after the col, and getting cragfast, but it was straightforward and any nasties are easy to avoid. I needed a rest, though, so instead of any madcap notion of doing the Creag itself in fast-fading light I availed myself of Creaguaineach Lodge. You're not supposed to? I don't know. I felt I'd earned it anyway. My levels of superstition being what they were, though, I felt the need to say a verbal thanks to previous owners (I'm not kidding) and not to outstay my welcome. I spent an hour, truly enjoying the night-time solitude and a cute mouse that crossed the floor in front of me. I felt my endeavours had been 'approved', and I went on to enjoy my torchlight stroll beneath Venus, Mars and Jupiter back to the Hostel. Ken's home has a lovely lightbulb adornment at night by the way.

What exactly goes on here I don't know; awkward section.

Made it now :-) The little bridge and the lodge beyond.

Here we are again. Dusk this time. No bother. Good tracks from now on.

Doesn't quite capture the atmosphere, but that's Venus, honestly.

This walk is followed by 'Creag Ghuanach and Moorland Mess-up'
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=127812

[Colin1951]

Love this one! It’s always great finding different ways and this is one of the best I’ve seen. Kudos!

[smalltounboy]

Great report, I did this route last year, the track back up from Loch Treig to the hostel is the hardest climb of the day

Mark

[litljortindan]

Interesting route which I got a view of on the train from Tulloch last year. Glad to read that the descent went well.

[Grisu]

nice report and interesting pictures, THANKS!