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Following our walk in the Fannichs the weather continued to be dreadful for August, wet stormy and with little sign of a break in the weather. A Friday gave us our best opportunity with showers rather than continual rain! We decided to tick off some of the Beinn Dearg group and just see how we got on.
We parked up at Inverlael easily enough but as we approached the wood on a good track the midge nets were swiftly needed. It was still and damp in the forest which presented the need to move at a pace. I am not sure how but we missed the track turning left that was the route up. After a while of walking through the forestry we realised we hadn't crossed the River Lael where we should have. Being how far in the wrong direction we had gone we opted to continue and cross the river at the end of the forestry and join the stalkers path. It all looked very simple on the map!
We descended to the river and saw that it was higher than expected, probably due to the constant rain in days before. It probably was crossable but we had another problem. We had entered the lair of the midge. Stuck halfway across the river the clouds of the midge gathered around us, there was nothing for it but to beat a hasty retreat and retrace our steps. It felt like we had added ages onto the walk but eventually we found the correct route over the river on a bridge, still walking at pace we followed what we thought was the right track and thankfully this time it was. We emerged out of the woods very close to where we had been attacked in the river by the midges. There was no hanging around and we proceeded quickly up the stalkers path.
I had read it was a good stalkers path and eventually it was but I must have been grumpy from my constant fleeing midges and felt the first bit of path was a bit rough. It eventually improved and a breeze picked up meaning we could slow down and enjoy looking at the waterfalls in Gleann na Sguaib. As a large waterfall appeared ahead a cairn marked our turn off. We turned left and on the path slightly more steeply aimed for the Allt a' Chnapaich. As we entered Coire Lochan a'Chnapaich we looked for and found a path of sorts heading onto the ridge. It was a short and fairly steep pull up, sometimes on a path other times not. We emerged onto the ridge to the north east of Sidhean Dubh. Just as we began to get some amazing views out west towards Seana Bhraigh and Coigach the clag descended accompanied by drizzle and a stiff breeze. We made our way onto the summit plateau and on a pile of rocks found the Cairn marking the summit of Eididh nan Clach Geala, here we met the only the third person in the whole day. He has already done four munros and was now heading for Seana Bhriagh, he disappeared into the fog to be seen again at the very end of the day.
- Heading in the wrong direction, the midges await!
- Escaping the midges
- Impressive waterfall
- Meall nan Ceapraichean ahead of us
- Coire Lochan a' Chnapaich
- Coigach before the clag came down
- On the summit of Eididh nan Clach Geala
We didn't hang around long on the summit but headed south east on an intermittent path by Creag Lochan a' Chnapaich. We emerged at a small lochan in the bealach, We had been looking across wondering the best rout to navigate the crags to the next munro. There was no need. A surprisingly good path not marked on my OS map did it for us, disappearing when its job was done just short of the summit of Ceann Garbh. With the clag lifted we made our way to the obvious rocky summit of Meall nan Ceaprachean. The views were sensational and well worth the midge hell at the start. We could see to Coigach, the other two in the Beinn Dearg group, the Western Fannichs, An Teallach and the Fisherfields. We even thought we could see Ben Klibreck. The wind was getting stronger and colder so we didn't stay as long as we would have wanted to and opted to have a now very late lunch at the bealach.
We followed another intermittent path to reach the lovely Lochan Uaine, a perfect place for lunch. The wind had dropped at the bealach and there was just us and a strange water bird. I would have said a moorhen but I have never seen one at such height. Our energy was pretty much spent and time was also not on our side so we opted to come back another day to complete the group. A shame as the other two munros seems so close, but I do look forward to returning. The first section of the stalkers path back to Inverlael was amazing, as it weaved its way to Lochan Lathail and then down Coire Mathair Lathail. Dramatic cliffs flanked both sides and we had the pleasure of seeing dippers as we followed the burn that would become the River Lael. The return through the forest was pleasant, the evening sun shone and the midges had decided they had had their fill for the day. We met the walker who climbed Seana Bhraigh, just short of the car park and had some discussion on munros. I am really looking foward to returning for the other three munros. Despite the initial difficulty it was a fantastic walk.
- First bealach
- Towards An Sgurr
- The way up
- Beinn Dearg
- On the summit of Meall nan Ceapraichean
- Looking down to Loch Broom
- Towards An Teallach
- Towards Seana Bhraigh
- Impressive Coigach
- Cona Mheall
- Lunch spot
- Lochan Lathail
- Impressive cliffs
- Looking back to Meall nan Ceapraichean