The Mountain of the Stag - 10 years on

[Anne C]

Beinn Damh, Loch Torridon by Anne C, on Flickr

I couldn’t quite believe it had been a decade since I’d last climbed this beautiful , shapely mountain that rears above Loch Torridon.However, a quick check of a Flickr album confirmed that it had indeed been Nov 2015.The autumn colours then were quite amazing and I’d fallen in love with the mountain, the amazing vistas resulting in it whizzing into my Top 10 hill walks.
Torridon is a happy place for me too, even though the Big 3 – Liathach, Beinn Eighe and Beinn Alligin - look quite intimidating in their steepness for someone who has always experienced a fair degree of vertigo which has got worse with age.I’ve been on all their summits with the exception of Liathach’s eastern Munro, Spidean a Choire Leith(and sadly, I doubt I’ll ever make it, it’s just too steep for a wee feartie like myself. )


We’d booked a cottage last minute in mid February and the day after our arrival looked like the best day for the mountains.Wind wasn’t too bad – 25mph – and MWIS were reporting a high chance of cloud free Munros.
Should we go up Liathach again by the back door, accessing Mullach an Rathain the ‘easy’ way via Coire Nobuil? I’d enjoyed that route, essentially just a slog up big wide moorland slopes onto a surprisingly lovely, gentle and wide ridge.

Liathach ‘s Mullach an Rathain zoomed by Anne C, on Flickr

Our cottage in Inveralligin faced Beinn Damh, a handsome mountain, the views from which I had never forgotten and rated as highly as those from Beinn Alligin.No contest! The Mountain of the Stag it was.

Beinn Damh from the cottage…

DSC_0149.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

We woke on the Saturday to white horses on Loch Torridon, suggesting it was windier than forecast! Ah well…we’d see how things went.It’s not a precipitous mountain (or so I recalled), no narrow ridges that might feel dodgy in tough conditions.
Embarrassingly, we got mildly lost at the start in the Torridon Hotel/walkers car park but finally found the route up through the forest, helpfully signposted ‘To Beinn Damh viewpoint.’ Duh - so much for having done this route before! That said, there do seem to be new buildings all over the place, blocking what I remembered was the original access path to the main road.
Across the A896 and onto the excellent path that weaves its way up through the Scots Pine forest, taking us very quickly high above a narrow gorge and giving great views down to the river below. Actually, given how dry it had been recently, the river had very little water in it.Plus, the peaks had virtually no snow on them.It’s been a strange winter; one week, lots of snow on the tops, the next, all of it gone, especially at the coast.

DSC_0156.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

After 25 mins, we’d emerged onto the open ground of the moorland, the path flattening out and giving really lovely walking towards the low point of the ridge.These stalkers paths are a dream! Beautifully built, like a stone staircase.

On the great flattish section making for the bealach by Anne C, on Flickr

Already, there were fine views of Beinn Alligin and Liathach, the rising sun beginning to light up their slopes.

DSC_0160.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

It was as we were admiring the biggies that a large bird soared into view, heading directly across the loch.An eagle! Which kind I’m not sure though the bulk of it suggested a sea eagle.The photo below is not good but I’ll include it anyway…

DSC_0161.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Beinn Alligin and Liathach by Anne C, on Flickr

Zoomed to Liathach and Beinn Eighe…

DSC_0163.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

A younger couple (they always are these days ) soon overtook us as the path began to climb up towards the ridge.I didn’t remember this section at all and in fact, the pull up has become very eroded and braided.There was also a lot of really thick ice about now, nothing that couldn’t be avoided but meaning continual detours.

Approaching the eroded section by Anne C, on Flickr

Eroded section below the bealach by Anne C, on Flickr

That view! by Anne C, on Flickr

On the final rise to the ridge, we both went our separate ways, me going straight up the fall line with eroded gullies on each side and Chris following a small track he’d found on the left.After a bit of clinging onto clumps of heather, I found myself stuck below a huge outcrop of ice that blocked the way ahead.

DSC_0230.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Wrong choice! ‘What are you doing over there?’ Chris shouted as I grumbled and began a careful reversal back down to the bottom again.A move to the right gave much better going and soon I had clambered out of this unpleasant (and actually quite stupid) choice and was back on track.
In no time, we were on the wide flat ridge at 600m with stunning views down to Loch Damh and out towards Kishorn.

DSC_0168.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Loch Damh by Anne C, on Flickr

Time for a seat in the sunshine and a munch on a sandwich.Not a breath of wind either.The couple who had passed us were now tiny specks on the hillside, heading for the unusually named summit of Sgurr na Bana Mhoraire overlooking Loch Torridon.It’s one of the 3 strange names on Beinn Damh and translates as the Peak of the Earl’s/Lord’s Wife (according to Dwelly’s Gaelic dictionary.)

The main summit was our objective so off we headed up the next rise on a good path before detouring to the right to avoid a steep climb on boulders up to Point 868m.

DSC_0227.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

DSC_0172.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

We’d ploughed our way up here last time and the views were great.But the by pass path was too much of a draw.It wound its way ahead on wide, quite stony slopes with the promise of the summit ahead.A very bouldery summit too, more so than I remembered!

DSC_0181.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

DSC_0176.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

The February sun was surprisingly warm albeit we had built up a bit of a sweat by now.The final slopes were littered with small boulders and pathless so it was a case of picking your way up , trying to find bits of grass or the best line.Finally, we topped out on Spidean Toll nam Biast - the Beast’s Hole - another of the very interesting names on the mountain.

DSC_0218.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

I now realised that we were NOT at the top as rearing in front of us was an impressive, steep, bouldery ridge which swept up and around a stunning corrie.

DSC_0177.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Time for another seat in the sunshine and to recover from the mild shock of still having a way to go, even if short. Not a breath of wind which was just as well as I’d managed to lose my hat on that gully debacle.The temperature was actually very pleasant and the views were stunning.

Beinn Dearg, Liathach and Beinn Eighe by Anne C, on Flickr

Looking into the steep corrie below the main summit…

DSC_0180.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

‘Ok..last bit of effort,’ I thought, not looking forward to the bouldery ground ahead and the much narrower looking terrain.
In fact, a little gravelly path reappeared and actually wound its way up very nicely through the rocks , hugging the edge of the ridge.It looked precipitous from afar but in fact, the drop offs were ok for me (I’m always unnerved if too close to edges and ledges) because the immediate ground was littered with large rocks, acting like a barrier on each side.

DSC_0214.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

DSC_0210.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

DSC_0183.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

In 10 mins or so we were at the true summit – Spidean Coire an Laoigh - which may mean the Peak of the Warriors /Heroes or Peak of the Calves.Calves certainly links to Beinn Damh’s overall name. It’s a lovely flat summit with truly outstanding views.Below us, lay the distinctive, strange Stirrup marking which is seen from the Applecross /Kishorn side but which of course was out of sight now.That too, might link somehow to the alternative translation of the peak’s Gaelic name.

The Stirrup seen next day from the Radio Mast above the Bealach na Ba…

Beinn Damh and the Stirrup below the summit from the Radio Mast at the Bealach na Ba by Anne C, on Flickr

DSC_0201.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Liathach and Beinn Eighe…

DSC_0187.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Zoomed to Liathach…

DSC_0189.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

And Beinn Eighe…

DSC_0190.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Beinn Alligin, very volcano like…

DSC_0188.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

DSC_0191.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

There is something about that view of Maol Chean Dearg, Sgorr Ruadh and the neighbouring peaks that has a Lord of the Rings quality to it.I know Beinn Alligin, Liathach and Beinn Eighe are fabulous too but it’s that view that I always associate with Beinn Damh.For me, it’s a mesmerising panorama.

DSC_0195.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

DSC_0184.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

DSC_0186.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Away to the west and south, it was a little hazy but the Trotternish ridge was clear…

DSC_0192.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Beinn Bhan…

DSC_0193.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

….and the Black Cuillin too beyond Beinn Bhan in Applecross.Blaven stood highest above all from this angle.

DSC_0194.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

DSC_0199.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Beinn Scritheall was just visible and the big stuff well inland to the east was very snow covered.

DSC_0196.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

No Harris today though Chris thought he could make out Eaval beyond moorland burning at Rubh Hunish on Skye.
What a fine summit it is! The younger couple we’d said hello to earlier now appeared and the chap offered to take our photo.

IMG-20250215-WA0003 by Anne C, on Flickr

I reciprocated and we chatted about the mountains all around with Chris pointing out some of the further afield peaks.The haze was thinning and the lighthouse on Scalpay suddenly looked very white across the Sea of the Hebrides.
We spent a good half hour at the top in the almost balmy, Spring -like conditions.

Down we had to go however with no difficulty on the steep but nicely weaving path.While the Big 3 certainly were as impressive as ever, Beinn Damh itself is such a shapely mountain, it easily stood comparison with the ridge curving round dramatically ahead.

DSC_0202.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

DSC_0181.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

DSC_0205.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

It had taken us about 3 hours to the main summit including our various stops and it wasn’t far off that going back as we took our time, enjoying the stunning views all around.Torridon – what a place!

Across the bouldery ground…

DSC_0217.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Heading along the by pass path back to the Bealach…

DSC_0220.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Nearing the Bealach…

DSC_0223.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

DSC_0226.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Down to the Bealach again then the steeper slopes beside the eroded gully area but it was easy enough now to simply keep to the right where a good path wound its way down to better ground.Chris gallantly crossed over to the base of the daft route I’d taken on the ascent and found my hat! It was a favourite so I was really glad to get it back.Tea and cake on me when we got down!

DSC_0228.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

The light was changing now, warmer than the cold early morning light of earlier…

DSC_0233.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Beinn Alligin on the descent…

Beinn Alligin by Anne C, on Flickr

And Sgorr Mhor…

DSC_0247.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Tiny Torridon village dwarfed by Liathach…

DSC_0235.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Cloud moving in over the biggies…

DSC_0237.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Never a dull moment as such on the walk, constantly gorgeous views…

DSC_0242.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Loch Torridon…

DSC_0243.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

I looked back and saw- just- the main summit of Beinn Damh tucked in beyond Point 868m.

DSC_0248.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

No stags grazing on the descent this time as there had been 10 years before, just a very quiet mountainside as we descended to the woodland and the final section through the Scots Pines.

DSC_0249.jpg by Anne C, on Flickr

Over the next few days, touring about Applecross and from our cottage at Inveralligin Beinn Damh seemed to dominate the views.It takes a pretty stunning mountain to compete with the Big 3 in terms of drawing the eye but Beinn Damh certainly achieves that.It’s a beauty of a hill,10m short of Munro height, softer in outline, yet as shapely as its higher companions and offering an easier, more gradual ascent capped by truly glorious views.Some aspects of my memory of the mountain were a bit off( it felt longer this time – possibly an age thing! -was stonier and more bouldery) but I’ve never forgotten that view into the Coulin Forest peaks, a view which lived up to my expectations many times over.

[litljortindan]

Great set of photos and glad to read that you got your hat back. I have very distant but good memories of this hill too. Not sure I'd rank it above Ben Alligin for views but it is in a sort of hub location so good views almost guaranteed.

[Anne C]

Many thanks litljortindan - it was a day of good light in the foreground, so the biggies were very clear and good for photos.
Yes, I think I’ve revised that opinion re Beinn Alligin - that view round the great vertical terraces of the latter with Liathach standing proud too, is just fabulous.But there is something about the combination of peaks in the Coulin Forest.Otherwordly!

[henryhawthort]

review is here DSC_0249.jpg , on Flickr

Over the next few days, touring about Applecross and from our cottage at Inveralligin Beinn Damh seemed to dominate the views.It takes a pretty stunning mountain to compete with the Big 3 in terms of drawing the eye but Beinn Damh certainly achieves that.It’s a beauty of a hill,10m short of Munro height, softer in outline, yet as shapely as its higher companions and offering an easier, more gradual ascent capped by truly glorious views.Some aspects of my memory of the mountain were a bit off( it felt longer this time – possibly an age thing! -was stonier and more bouldery) but I’ve never forgotten that view into the Coulin Forest peaks, a view which lived up to my expectations many times over.

Stunning views! Beinn Damh really does look like a masterpiece of nature.With age, the mountains may seem a little more challenging, but it is these small changes that make each climb unique

[Anne C]

Thanks Henry, good to hear you enjoyed the report.Yes, age doesn't come alone! But a corker of a mountain, very beautiful and of course Torridon is just something else.

[Veryhappybunny]

Looks like you had a stunning day for it - and great photos.
We got a bit lost at the start too, so you are not alone in that!

[Anne C]

Looks like you had a stunning day for it - and great photos.
We got a bit lost at the start too, so you are not alone in that!

It was a great day for photos, that’s for sure, glad you liked them! Always feel we must look like headless chickens getting lost the minute we leave the car…I always imagine folk thinking ‘don’t fancy their chances if they can’t even find their way out of the car park!’