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Towards Beinn a Bheithir by
Anne C, on Flickr
A decent weather day loomed and my eye had been fixed for a time on the above two mountains – a Corbett and a Fiona.
The initial plan was to travel up on the Saturday and do the walk the next day with an overnight in the excellent Corran Bunkhouse.We often stay here – excellent deals on nice private en suite rooms, good kitchen facilities, attractive lounge and lovely location by the ferry. Everything pristine. But as we travelled up through Glencoe the showery, low cloud day which was forecast had disappeared AND the next day’s forecast had deteriorated quite a bit. Change of plan!
Today was the day for the hike, actually a decision I preferred as enjoying the treat of a meal out and a wee night away after a walk, is better than having all the hard work to do next day!
Got parked as described on walkhighlands, a smallish area beyond Callert House. Beautiful views already over Loch Leven – that section of the B863 is definitely my favourite side of the loch.Very peaceful.
The sun felt hot for March as we got boots on and sorted out the rucksacks. I had seen the Right of Way sign for the path we needed, a short distance round the corner from the car park, so off we set.
The Right of Way sign - wrong way! by
Anne C, on Flickr
However, this was the WRONG option as there is a much better track which begins from the parking area which somehow – and despite it being referred to in the walk description - we completely missed! Duh.
I wasn’t impressed at all with the Right of Way which was barely visible at times as it wound through the woodland. After 15 mins or so we came across the ‘correct’ track making a note to look out for it on the return.
Larks were singing high above us, celebrating the balmy warmth of the lovely Spring day. Behind us, the Pap of Glencoe and Beinn a Bheithir were looking very fine indeed.
Better path now by
Anne C, on Flickr
Over Loch Leven by
Anne C, on Flickr
I’d been tempted by the Kinlochleven start to Mam na Gualainn but I was really keen to walk further out west and take in the views from Tom na Meadhoin, the Middle Hill. I’d poured over photos from Natubat’s excellent report on doing the whole ridge from the head of the loch and it was the photos from the Fiona which had really impressed - a bird’s eye, unusual view into the Glencoe peaks and beyond. The Fiona also put us directly opposite Beinn a Bheithir itself and the wide expanse of Loch Linnhe.
The path was very obvious now and it was quite hot work heading up to the top of the pass between the two mountains.
Better path now by
Anne C, on Flickr
It was a case of head down with the stunning views behind us always a motivator when we stopped for a breather. The hill was also very dry given how little rain March had seen, so that was a bonus.
Obvious path by
Anne C, on Flickr
DSC_0573.jpg by
Anne C, on Flickr
DSC_0581.jpg by
Anne C, on Flickr
My plan had been to walk as far as the huge cairn which marks the top of the Right of Way and where it descends the other side of the mountain and joins up with the West Highland Way. This latter section is the descent route for Mam na Gualainn described in walkhighlands.
However, as we plodded on up, I remembered reading about a concrete pole which was a good spot to cut a corner a bit and make for the higher slopes. The hillsides on both mountains are dotted with reflecting indicators, possibly to assist ATVs in ascending via the best ground. They were a good marker for us too though as time went on, the concrete pole never materialised.
Marker posts by
Anne C, on Flickr
A short way below the Pass we headed off on what looked like a path only to find that it was a dried up water gully. Big mistake! The going over the next 20 mins or so was tortuous and a bit dispiriting as we made our way up through long tussocky grass and heather - the sort of terrain you feel you’re never getting anywhere on!
Finally, a much better path appeared on our left – this was the far easier route we should have followed from the Pass itself and which we used on the descent from Mam na Gualainn.
I asked Chris about the mountain’s name and he said it meant the Pass of the Shoulder – presumably referring to the shoulder of both hills. He wondered whether it had, over time, become the name of the Corbett itself?
What looked like the summit appeared before us, only to have our hopes dashed as - per usual! – another mini mountain soon loomed ahead.Well, I suppose it is a kick in the pants off 800m from sea level so we should have known it wouldn’t be that easy, particular given that our hill days have been few and far between recently. Still those views were the thing...
Beinn a Bheithir zoomed...
Beinn a Bheithir by
Anne C, on Flickr
It was just at that point that a Golden Eagle swept over the moorland above us. I didn’t manage a great shot as such but the golden head is visible. Always a huge thrill to see this majestic predator.I think it must have seen us huffing and puffing and decided to check out possible fodder!
Golden Eagle by
Anne C, on Flickr
Spirits revived somewhat, we headed on up the final slopes.
Final section, looking back by
Anne C, on Flickr
The final section to Mam na Gualainn by
Anne C, on Flickr
The summit looked further away than it actually was and we weren’t long in finding ourselves by the roomy Trig point.
Endless, wonderful mountain views all around!
Glencoe by
Anne C, on Flickr
After, I admit, occasional thoughts on the ascent about why on Earth we were putting ourselves through all this hard work, the summit views brought that lightbulb moment (if needed) that THIS is what it was all about .The sheer wow factor of the views, the drama of being nearly three thousand feet up above everything and the deep satisfaction of achieving a top, a satisfaction which never fades.
The Pap of Glencoe had disappeared from here into the mass of the Aonach Eagach’s Sgorr nam Fiannaidh.
Aonach Eagach hiding the Pap by
Anne C, on Flickr
The ridge itself was very clear, a huge massif rearing out of Loch Leven. Beinn a Bheithir, coming in and out of cloud and being drenched by some hefty showers, was looking Alpine.
Beinn a Bheithir by
Anne C, on Flickr
Zoomed by
Anne C, on Flickr
The Mamores were just beautiful - Stob Ban the most prominent and hiding views of Ben Nevis.
DSC_0594.jpg by
Anne C, on Flickr
Mamores by
Anne C, on Flickr
Cloud was coming and going further west towards Ardgour and Glenfinnan and Loch Lochy but some views opened up...
Looking north west by
Anne C, on Flickr
Away to the east, the pyramid cone of Shiehallion rose proudly above Rannoch Moor.
Looking east to Shiehallion by
Anne C, on Flickr
There wasn’t much of a breeze from the north so it was actually very pleasant, temperature wise , to just sit and admire it all, the loch glistening below. Gorgeous country!
Finding a good spot to have lunch by
Anne C, on Flickr
In fact, we spent a good 50 mins just basking in our eagle eye’s view of the big stuff all around.
Beinn a Bheithir by
Anne C, on Flickr
Myself by
Anne C, on Flickr
Finally, it was time to go and down we set, quite quickly seeing the only other people we met all day – another couple who were ascending. They had just reached what I’d earlier thought was the summit and after exchanging hellos, I heard the woman exclaiming - “oh God, it’s miles away!’ Ah, a woman after my own heart – I knew exactly how she was feeling.
Looking towards our next objective...Tom Meadhoin...Ardgour clearing a bit now too...
Looking towards Tom Meadhoin by
Anne C, on Flickr
A very quick descent on a decent grassy path brought us to the Pass/Mam and the huge stone cairn.
The way ahead - the Pass cairn is the grey circle of stones by
Anne C, on Flickr
Once again, the Golden Eagle made an appearance, almost in the same place we had watched it earlier...
The eagle again! by
Anne C, on Flickr
Golden Eagle again by
Anne C, on Flickr
We now had about 160m of ascent to reach the summit of Tom Meadhoin. A bit softer underfoot but really quite dry overall; this section must get very boggy at times but we were lucky.
Just as we approached another rise, several red deer made an appearance - we had disturbed their grazing and over the next few minutes, as we stood watching, about 70 raced past us, a superb sight. A few of the handsome fellas below...quite a few hinds amongst them too strangely though not in the images...
About 70 red deer raced across the hillside by
Anne C, on Flickr
DSC_0643.jpg by
Anne C, on Flickr
DSC_0642.jpg by
Anne C, on Flickr
Nice light, ever changing light actually, over Glencoe...
Nice light over the Glencoe peaks by
Anne C, on Flickr
Pap of Glencoe and Aonach Eagach peaking through by
Anne C, on Flickr
Easy undulating terrain took us fairly quickly to the final flattish section of the summit, though nothing marked it apart from a couple of small stones. I made a quick check on my OS map as there was a further away top but this was definitely the highest point.
Now we had the stunning views into the heart of Glencoe and the great mass of Beinn a Bheithir which lay directly opposite. Showers were enveloping the summit slopes then clearing again, very atmospheric.
Cloud over Beinn a Bheithir by
Anne C, on Flickr
Heavier cloud coming in by
Anne C, on Flickr
Ardgour had cleared again...
Ardgour and Garbh Bheinn by
Anne C, on Flickr
Beinn na Gucaig on the right above the forestry, another fine viewpoint...
Beinn na Gucaig on the right above forestry by
Anne C, on Flickr
Zoomed to the biggies...
Zoomed to Stob Coire nam Beith by
Anne C, on Flickr
DSC_0669.jpg by
Anne C, on Flickr
Ever changing light by
Anne C, on Flickr
Beinn a Bheithir close up....I really couldn't take my eyes off it in that changing light...in fact, now that I look over the photos, it's been a bit of a Beinn a Bheithir love fest!
DSC_0699.jpg by
Anne C, on Flickr
Beinn a Bheithir by
Anne C, on Flickr
DSC_0677.jpg by
Anne C, on Flickr
DSC_0684.jpg by
Anne C, on Flickr
Beinn a Bheithir by
Anne C, on Flickr
Mamores clearing again...
Mamores clearing again by
Anne C, on Flickr
Time was getting on so after 10 mins or so on this lovely summit, we about turned and made our way down. There was a very obvious path from the Pass down to the (wrong) spot we’d branched off earlier - definitely the thing is to continue to the cairn where another obvious path goes up Mam na Gualainn!
Heading down from the Pass/Mam by
Anne C, on Flickr
The views were just glorious the whole way back with the loch and the mountains before us.
Showers coming in by
Anne C, on Flickr
Last of the brightness by
Anne C, on Flickr
The Pap looking grand by
Anne C, on Flickr
Once into the birch woodland again, we picked up the better track (near a ruined croft) and which took us very quickly back to the car.
The walk had been 6 hours in all including stops.It could certainly be done in far less time but I hate leaving summits after all the hard work and really like to savour them as long as possible.
A big treat ahead as we were in time for a 5pm booking in the Lochleven Seafood Café, just 5 mins drive along the road and in a stunning setting. Clams in Garlic to start, Linguine Vongole for me and Langoustines for Chris. By 5.30pm the restaurant was going like a fair and we were stuffed!
A stroll next day as low cloud had swept in over Glencoe though we it stayed very clear and bright at Castle Stalker, where we did a short walk from the Port Appin road to see the castle up close.
DSC_0712.jpg by
Anne C, on Flickr
Castle Stalker by
Anne C, on Flickr
It had been a cracking outing above Loch Leven, perhaps on unremarkable looking hills from afar but certainly giving outstanding views.
