Welcome to the Cuillin Ridge

[The English Alpinist]

This walk (climb) was preceded by 'Two Red Cuillins'
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=128923

Looking north from Sgurr Dubh Mor.

The round I did: Sgurr nan Eag, the Dubhs and Sgurr Sgumainn (where I am standing).

So, I had cut my Skye teeth on two Broadford Fionas (not at all painful), but had not enjoyed them as much as I should have - because I was anticipating this lot, not least the In Pinn, which I was hoping to reach today. Furthermore, I was approaching this with grand notions of taking in the complete ridge (no, not in one go!), by way of ascending to the very south end of it at Gars Bheinn and working my way along as far as the In Pinn today. I told this to a chap who was setting out at the same time, and in hindsight I can almost hear him thinking 'good luck with that!' Incidentally, I fancied taking two days over the rest of the range all the way to Sgurr Beag. None of this via bivouac by the way, but by descending each day and sleeping in civilized fashion in the car. It did not take long to get a very persausive feeling that a sizeable portion of all this was not going to be possible. Maybe for some, but not for me at 57 - and about to get a stern reminder that that is my number these days - despite considering myself a very fit animal with quite a few big outings to my name.

Approach along the coast to Coir a' Ghrunnda.

I found it dodgy and tough already (getting up to the Coir).

Loch Coir a' Ghrunnda. Tired, intimidated already.

So I reached the summit of Sgurr nan Eag - that was one of the easy ones??!

The 'persausive feeling' I mentioned above began with the ascent to Loch Coir a' Ghrunnda, not least because I was not supposed to be on it. I did not see any sign of an alleged path around to the tail end, and instead found myself plodding on up in the wake of the guy I had met earlier. Then another came flying past (much younger than I, I hasten to add), so I thought 'okay, sod it, this is the way I am going, my real purpose is summit bagging anyway'. My purist dream of covering the entire ridge was gone, because time, expense and morale would not permit repeated visits to this place. McNeish states Coir a' Ghrunnda 'can be difficult to enter unless you're prepared to scramble a bit'. Correct. However, I got there, but already in a state of mild shock at the rockiness and scale of things. I hesitate to call it a beautiful place - if it is, it's only because of the water - a mere advance basecamp in the midst of grey monsters. Daunted but pressing on, I reached Sgurr nan Eag, Munro no.1, up the standard ridge route, again surprised by the severity of the scramble and feeling more drained than I wanted to be. I was slightly comforted by meeting a fellow 57-year-old at the summit, aiming to get the Dubhs in next, and the views of course were spectacular but kind of overwhelming too. I did not feel this was my type of landscape to be honest.

I got a concrete (or should I say Gabbro?) reason for feeling this way on the descent of nan Eag. I must have found not the best line and was faced with very slabby and big step stuff, too easterly. Loathe to backtrack, wearied and stressed, I resolved to find a way down. This looked only possible by squeezing down a chimney, which necessitated dispensing with my rucksack and rope (which I was lugging along for the In Pinn, but could have used here if there'd been an anchor point). Throwing it down ahead of me, the rucksack rolled and slithered on the slab below, and tumbled off that slab to crash another 20 feet. That was disturbing. Well, I made it down, got reunited with it - altogether too precarious. But onward. Not giving up yet, although half of me was crying out to.

On the Munro Top of Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn, looking across to Sgurr Dubh Mor.

On the Munro of Sgurr Dubh Mor - oh, look, the In Pinn - no chance will I reach it today!!

NOT feeling as calm as I look here. Still on Sgurr Dubh Mor - rethinking plans.

Lots of this; descent of Dubh Mor went better than I feared.

Back at Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn - two figures on the parent Munro now.

The ascent of Sgurr Dubh an Dha Bheinn was okay, but it was supposed to be by all accounts. This Munro Top is an 'airy perch' as they say, right in the midst of the Munros of the southern end. I did not especially appreciate it, though, by now feeling that I could 'understand' vertigo even though never having considered myself a sufferer in my life. Part of this was anticipation of Sgurr Dubh Mor, which prior reading (McNeish yet again, perhaps I should give him up) told me was awkward to navigate even in good weather. However, it went fine, albeit with exposed moments but clearly you have to accept that - a lot - on the Black Cuillins. The vantage point on the entire ridge from its grassy knoll summit is spectacular, needless to say. I rested for some time there (well, not there, but in a more protected ledge). I regrouped, decided that a large part of my fatigue and anxiety was simple need of nutrition and keeping up with the demands of hydration. After a feed and water, and descent which I found more secure than expected, my anxieties lessened. I was now well of a mind that I was going to get nowhere near the In Pinn today, though; this was partly a relief, but also an upset because I want the damn thing out of the way. It was back up to an Dha Bheinn - which may be the only summit in the Cuillins I will ever do twice - where I enjoyed seeing two figures on top of the parent Munro which I was done with. Next was a decision to make at the 'celebrated' TD Gap, but not before more precariousness that probably should have been avoided on the way down Dha Bheinn.

Down the north ridge of Dha Bheinn, onward towards the 'TD Gap'.

Apologies for this old meme.

The spring below the TD Gap - very welcome. Look at the tail end of the ridge poking up through the col!

... very welcome indeed. View down to Glen Brittle, but not going there just yet.

I was certainly not going to do the TD Gap, nor even the 'bypass', instead traversing to Sgurr Sgumain.

On Sgurr Sgumain's summit, looking north. In Pinn closer - but still NO WAY JOSE TODAY.

It went without saying I was not going to attempt the direct ('Very Difficult') climb to get up onto Sgurr Alasdair, but neither did I fancy the stress and strain of finding the bypass. I would have liked to have got Alasdair done - a fine trophy, the highest of the range - and my energy and morale was distinctly better down at the lovely spring below the bealach. I told myself 'don't push it', and I compromised with a decision to take in the Top, Sgurr Sgumain and then call it a day. That would be quite neat, removing the need to ever revisit Coir a' Ghrunnda and allowing myself to tackle Alasdair and onward via the Great Stone Chute another day, avoiding altogether the problems of TD Gap. Sgumain looked straightforward to attain from across the Coir, up its west flank and ridge, and was. Even the moments of exposure were minimal, basically just at the top. The In Pinn was now conspicuously closer, but Sgurr Alasdair closer still from this vantage point. Here I watched a guy climbing - surely you call that a climb, not a scramble! - what had to be the bypass route. It looked sickening. I have grown to dislike that word 'scramble'. Everything is a climb, just varying degrees of a climb. You either walk - bipedally, according to our evolution - or you use your hands too, which is 'climbing'. Rant over. The sight of him doing it did tempt me; I had time, and probably energy after my renourishment, but I told myself I'd ridden a bit of luck today, and had, after all, accomplished exactly one of the four walks that McNeish (him again) breaks the ridge down into.

That would be a zoom on the In Pinn (somebody on it).

Still on Sgurr Sgumain, Munro Top.

Sgurr Alasdair ahead, and somebody in the process of climbing the bypass.

Look closer.

So, shall I too try it??

No, I shall b.....y not.

So, I had allowed myself not to attempt Sgurr Alasdair via its 'bypass' up the west ridge, but still did not expect to altogether enjoy my descent of Coir a Ghrunnda back to the camp site. I knew from my way up that one must pick the line carefully, and most definitely not end up too central and running into big wet smooth slab territory. Before this, I was treated to the sight of a helicopter circling the coir, then returning to land in it. I believe it was only on a practise, but it sobers you up if you need sobering. Ironically, at that moment I ran into a bit of awkwardness on what should have been the easy descent to the loch, resulting in some distasteful skirting and a leap that was just about safe in an ankle-break sense. I wonder if they were watching me, anticipating a more 'realistic' practise? Next I encountered a solitary sheep (the only one all day, a bit odd), and felt the need to ask it for verification if I was on a good line. I actually was not, quite, and had to perform one last very dodgy manouevre - a kind of traverse kick-step to get across a waterfall bit, saved from falling a wet and rocky 15 foot only by jamming my foot in a crack on the other side and hauling myself over on committed hand holds. Safe, finally! Next I met a guy on his way down who was mourning failing to bag two of his remaining 15 Munros, because route-finding angst had turned him back. I guess I had done okay. I am very glad I chose only the very best weather. Also, very important was having electrolyte tablets dissolved in my water, because cramp would not have been welcome up there, and wearing a cap to stave off the amazing possibility of sunstroke in early April.

I descended to the Loch Coir. There's a helicopter.

Look closer.

I asked her if I was on the right line (descending from Coir a' Ghrunnda).

Back in one piece, contemplating Coire Lagan & Great Stone Chute tomorrow. Looks unfeasibly steep.

Postscript:

I drove home that very night, partly because of a domestic worry which I will not go into, but if I'm honest at least in half part because I was 'looking for an excuse' not to do the In Pinn. One could say the thing has got inside my head, not that the rest of the ridge hasn't! My mood would be far better if I did not insist on doing these blighters unsupported, but that's me. I must ensure that pride does not literally come before a fall. If that means giving up on Munroism, so be it. Just two more done, not including the scariest, which in such a golden oppportunity of weather does not feel great.

This walk is followed by 'Prelude to the In Pinn - Alasdair and Mhic Choinnich'
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=129130

[gaffr]

Of course always a different ball game when alone in that sort of terrain. There are several 'highlight' sections of the ridge that more challenging than much of the rest.
I don't know the ways around the highlights having always headed straight through with my friends.
When you say Kings chimney to get onto Alasdair....I have only used Kings chimney to get onto Sgurr Mhic Choinnich...maybe there is another in the area?
I have used another K Ch. To reach a top at the far end of the Ridge. Maybe there is a third one in the area.
Old King was a big Chimney guy.

[prog99]

I'm glad you got up and down in one piece. It's always there to return to.
Once you know the "easy" way up then Coire Ghrundha isn't too bad(there are some of the usual dead ends etc)

You at least found the td gap bypass route, it's not particularly obvious from above. The chimneys onto Alasdair aren't bad but a slip of course would be serious.

Wear a helmet if you return to the stone chute. It's so busy now I wouldn't risk it without one.

I'd ditch the woefully inadequate McNeish guide.
Tom Prentice does a good one which had a few tricks I didn't know about. It's also a wonderful resource for all the hills in Skye.

[prog99]

Of course always a different ball game when alone in that sort of terrain. There are several 'highlight' sections of the ridge that more challenging than much of the rest.
I don't know the ways around the highlights having always headed straight through with my friends.
When you say Kings chimney to get onto Alasdair....I have only used Kings chimney to get onto Sgurr Mhic Choinnich...maybe there is another in the area?
I have used another K Ch. To reach a top at the far end of the Ridge. Maybe there is a third one in the area.
Old King was a big Chimney guy.

I think the Alasdair route is generically called th chimneys
Theres a Nicholson's chimney onto Sgur na Gillian

[The English Alpinist]

Ur correct Gaff - kings Chimney is the direct climb onto Mich Coinnich, the thing one avoids by doing Corries Ledge. The direct (VD) climb onto Alasdair is out of the TD gap. Prog thanks for the tip about the helmet, I was thinking about that. I might actually return this very week - the weather is too good to miss and I want these things done, at least up to and including the In Pinn. Oh yeah, and 'Nicholsons' chimney is another thing to worry about if I ever get to the north end of the ridge. It seems that's the only sensible option for a scrambler if trying to link from Am Basteir,.

[gaffr]

Located an old Cuillin guidebook...we used Kings cave route to get to Bhasteir Tooth in 1965...had to pull out some chokstones blockng the way.
During the first traverse that we made a bit later it was Naismiths route that we used for the tooth.
The King's chimney route seemed logical dirrct.way to Mhic Coinnich...direct and quick to the summit. The only way that I have used.
Some grand days out were had In.the Cuillin.

[prog99]

Ur correct Gaff - kings Chimney is the direct climb onto Mich Coinnich, the thing one avoids by doing Corries Ledge. The direct (VD) climb onto Alasdair is out of the TD gap. Prog thanks for the tip about the helmet, I was thinking about that. I might actually return this very week - the weather is too good to miss and I want these things done, at least up to and including the In Pinn. Oh yeah, and 'Nicholsons' chimney is another thing to worry about if I ever get to the north end of the ridge. It seems that's the only sensible option for a scrambler if trying to link from Am Basteir,.

TD gap is a bit of a struggle, its got very polished!
You can also go from Sgurr Sgumain to Sgurr Alasdair direct without the SW flank route(the grade 3 chimney) but I'd not recommend it to a novice. I did it by mistake in the mist.
Nicolson's Chimney gets graded Diff so harder than a grade 3 scramble.

[prog99]

Located an old Cuillin guidebook...we used Kings cave route to get to Bhasteir Tooth in 1965...had to pull out some chokstones blockng the way.
During the first traverse that we made a bit later it was Naismiths route that we used for the tooth.
The King's chimney route seemed logical dirrct.way to Mhic Coinnich...direct and quick to the summit. The only way that I have used.
Some grand days out were had In.the Cuillin.

Just flicked through the modern guidebook and Kings Cave Chimney is still listed on Am Bastier. Sounds like a classic old school route!

[Colin1951]

Well done for breaking your Cuillin duck! Of course it’s totally different from every other mountain area in the country - and one of the youngest geologically - and it takes a lot of getting used to. Also, because of its fairly small area and rocky complexity, the map is only of limited help. Lots of people hire guides for the more complex summits, the alternative is to become a Cuillin geek, devouring all available Cuillin literature and exploring the corries for the best routes. They are rarely obvious.
Apparently (haven’t found this one myself yet) there’s a path from Sgurr Dubh a wee bit to the left of the way to the TD gap, which traverses under Alastair to bring you out on the Bealach Sgumain, between Alastair and `Sgurr Sgumain, allowing you to ascend Alastair’s SW flank. All in all not a great range for soloing, your inner voice can get a bit intrusive!

Go and try Bruach na Frithe next time, or the S ridge of Blabheinn, they should restore your sang froid!

[Anne C]

What a great and really interesting - and honest- report.You did brilliantly well doing that route on your own too , given navigational difficulties and route challenges.
Really enjoyed your write up for open honesty about fear - yet pushing through that.
Not a chance in a million years could I do most of the Cuillin given my pretty poor head for heights/edges and ledges.I’ve managed the ‘easier’ ones - Bruach na Frithe, Blaven and Sgurr na Banachdich and Sgurr Dearg (the latter via the back way from Coruisk in madder, younger days.) But I love reading how others more able than me , yourself included, have got on with the range.
I have to agree too that the Cuillin landscape, seen when on the rocky peaks themselves, is stunning but overall it’s not my favourite landscape despite the spectacle of cliffs, rock, knife edge rock ridges etc.Too hostile and intimidating for me, but of course , still wildly impressive.Fab from a distance.
All the best in your future challenges on the Black Cuillin…I’m sure you’ll manage them!

[prog99]

Apparently (haven’t found this one myself yet) there’s a path from Sgurr Dubh a wee bit to the left of the way to the TD gap, which traverses under Alastair to bring you out on the Bealach Sgumain, between Alastair and `Sgurr Sgumain, allowing you to ascend Alastair’s SW flank. All in all not a great range for soloing, your inner voice can get a bit intrusive!

OP must have found it as they went on up Sgurr Sgumain.(The path is pretty obvious and the Sgumain bivvy cave an obvious landmark)

[The English Alpinist]

Thanks guys, it's very enouraging. Well, I'm back again (farcical fuel expense ). Hoping to do Alasdair through to to the In Pinn on Thursday. The egde has been taken off my anxieties (but only the edge), partly because of having sampled the serious stuff once now and understanding where it went wrong and where it went right. Partly through having had another successful crag abseil practise at home, involving backing over a sharp lip and then vertically down, so even tricker (I hope) than the In Pinn abseil, which it seems gives you a gentler transition before you go vertical. We'll see. I might well yet chicken out.
Prog I did indeed contemplate the direct approach from Sgumain to Alisdair but couldn't see what I'd be in for, so I rejected it thankfully. I wasn't even suire whether it would be doable from the col between, but I guess it probably would have been. Never mind, It's the joys of the Great Stone Chute for me.

[prog99]

Prog I did indeed contemplate the direct approach from Sgumain to Alisdair but couldn't see what I'd be in for, so I rejected it thankfully. I wasn't even suire whether it would be doable from the col between, but I guess it probably would have been. Never mind, It's the joys of the Great Stone Chute for me.

It's this by the way. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sgurr_alasdair-13230/southwest_ridge_via_the_bad_step_mauvais_pas-229558
I should write up our traverse adventure at some point.

[gaffr]

When coming up from the classic routes in Coire Lagan there is a short steep wee wall prior to Sgurr Alasdair....I guess that this is the wee pitch under discussion. A long reach and couple of moves upwards gets you beyond this step.
I think that all these years ago In the 1960's we had the attitude that if the old blokes with their hob nailed boots could ascend these areas in the Cuillin then we with our Vibram soled boots should be able to manage fine.

[prog99]

When coming up from the classic routes in Coire Lagan there is a short steep wee wall prior to Sgurr Alasdair....I guess that this is the wee pitch under discussion.

Thats the one, I don't think its very popular now.