free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
For several years I'd planned all nine Fannichs in a day. I'd previously done the 10 Mamores, as well as the fabled Mullardoch 12 in one hit. Though maybe not quite as exhausting as those two, the nine Fannichs would demand careful consideration, as well as proper planning.
The big question was do I do it from the north or the south? The reports I'd read of the northern approach suggested the walk in and out were a bit of an uninspiring bog-fest. Couple that with the difficulty of getting back to the car at the end, and it seemed the approach from the south must be more attractive. And so it was, then, that I sorted everything out and drove up on the Saturday morning to Achnasheen and polished off Fionn Bheinn, before I drove east back along to Bridge of Grudie on the A835, saddled up the bike and began the strenuous uphill pedal towards Fannich lodge. Though it was initially steep, the weather was out of this world, and on pristine tarmac. A refreshing easterly breeze paddled me on, as well as keeping me cool. After about 50 minutes I was at my campsite, by the bridge over a little stream that drained the southern flank of tomorrow's first Munro: An Coileachan.
*FULL GPX MAP AT THE END OF THE REPORT*
Sunset at camp, looking west along Loch FannichI awoke at 3.30am after a reasonable sleep. I never sleep especially well when camping, but a good mat and sleeping bag helps immeasurably. After a quick double porridge breakfast I headed in the darkness up the steep slope of An Coileachan. The ground was bone-dry after the sustained dry spell we'd had. Crispy lichen and grippy schist meant a decent pace on pathless ground. After an hour or so I was on the summit, and the first hint of dawn crept over the horizon.
Dawn with her rosy red fingers, still an hour away from sunriseFrom here, still under torchlight, I headed for the second summit of the day, Meall Gorm. It is little more than a slightly higher rounded lump on the eastern Fannichs ridge, hardly deserving of a separate Munro status. However, it afforded fine views to the main body of the ridge, with the light now improving.
The view to Sgurr Mor from Meall GormEverywhere around me I heard and saw ptarmigan. What a fantastic bird they are. The rasping cries of the male are one of the most evocative sounds of the Highlands. In the cool air of the morning, and on good ground, I was enjoying myself thoroughly, glad that I got up early and had the best of the day to myself.
https://flic.kr/p/2qWxoYC - Grainy ptarmigan video
From Meall Gorm, it was plain sailing across to the next (non-Munro) top of Meall nan Peithirean, and then tracking east around the southern shoulder of Sgùrr Mòr. I deposited the rucksack and headtorch at the 944m spot and set off unencumbered to pick up Munro three of the day: Beinn Liath Mòr Fannich. Much like the first two summits of the day, BLMF is an unremarkable lump in an of itself. However, with the sun now only just popping over the horizon it gave splendid views back to the main ridge. An Teallach, too, was conspicuous in the distance.
The next section involved the relatively simple, albeit steep, task of climbing up to the highest point of the day, Sgùrr Mòr, at 1,108 metres. A short time later, just approaching 8am, I was on the summit. Not a bad time in the morning to be standing atop the fourth Munro of the day. From the summit of Sgùrr Mòr I could see the next top, Meall a' Chrasgaidh, which like Meall Gorm, didn't look as though it deserved Munro status. A speedy descent from Sgùrr Mòr saw me at the 819m spot height where I deposited the rucksack and skipped up to the summit and back down again in 15 minutes. It was at this point where I applied the factor 50, as I could feel the sun's heat start to work its magic. I took a slug of Lucozade and eyed the next summit, the magnificent Sgùrr nan Clach Geala.
Sgurr nan Clach Geala from belowAnother stiff climb saw me summit shortly thereafter, at about 9.40am. The sun was now warm, and there wasn't much in the way of a breeze. However, there was just enough so that things didn't become uncomfortable. After a good glug of liquid I hopped down the 250m to the col that was to be the final 'there and back again' rucksack drop. Sgùrr nan Each, a fine looking peak, was only 122 metres above the col, and I was standing atop it in little more than 15 minutes from dropping said rucksack.
Sgurr nan Each from the lower slopes of Sgurr nan Clach GealaAfter reaching the rucksack and slinging it over my shoulders I descended on an intermittent path down to the col that separates Sgùrr nan Each & Sgùrr nan Clachan Geala with the two westernmost Munros. This is where I had a decision to make. Did I call it a day and bail out south, to the Nest of Fannich and pick up the track back along the north of the loch (shown in red below), or did I climb the 450m lung-bursting ascent of Sgùrr Breac and then on to A' Chailleach? I was seven Munros in and the heat was becoming tough. Fatigue was also a factor. One you commit to Sgùrr Breac you're more-or-less committed to the next one, and that would add a significant distance and ascent to an already long day.
However, given that it was only 10.40am I decided to press on (violet route below).
Frequent stops were needed on the way up Sgùrr Breac, such was its steepness. However, by 11.30am I was on the summit, and feeling good again after a good drink and a cooling easterly breeze. I pressed on for the ninth and final summit of the day, A' Chailleach. After the path drops off Sgùrr Breac to 815 metres, it wants you again to climb up the subsidiary peak of Toman Choinich (935 metres) before dropping off that before the final pull up to A' Chailleach.
'Sod that,' I said, countouring around on lovely soft turf. 'There's no point in climbing for the sake of it.'
And at exactly midday, I stood on top of the ninth and final Munro of the day A' Chailleach.
A' Chailleach from Sgùrr BreacIt is no exaggeration to say that the walk back to the camping spot was interminable. I knew that once I was on the track on the north side of Loch Fannich the going would be easy (or, as easy as it could be after having walked 20 miles and done nine Munros). However, getting there was a different story. I decided that I'd stay high, walking off A' Chailleach in an anti-clockwise direction, on the broad and soft slope of Beul Dearg and An Sgùman. Initially this was very pleasant, but the drop down to the loch was tiring on steep grass, probably not a great place to be in wet conditions. Also, crossing the Allt Coire nam Fear Riabhach would be tricky in spate. In dry conditions, however, it was fine - if a little boggy.
After what felt like an age (1 hour 10 mins after leaving A' Chailleach) I was at the old Nest of Fannich bothy, which burnt down in the late 1980s and has never been replaced.
Nest of Fannich bothyThe walk back along the track was hard going in reality. The lack of proper sleep and just general fatigue was now weighing heavy. But the track was very good, offering fast progress. After what seemed like an age I approached Fannich lodge. There is a walkers' detour that goes round the policies of the lodge, but I was in no mood to add unnecessary distance and ascent to my journey, so I took advantage of the low water level and simply walked along the shingle of the loch for a couple of hundred metres until I could rejoin the (now tarmac) road. From there a simple one mile walk took me back to the camping spot and bike.
I spent about 15 minutes packing up and then got on the bike. I have never, ever been so glad of two-wheeled transport. Smooth tarmac and no wind, as well as significant downhill sections, saw me cover the six miles back to the car in less than 30 minutes. Had I no bike it would have taken over 2 hours with a heavy pack. On complaining feet that would have been a penance.
To summarise: The nine Munros of the Fannichs are eminently doable in a day if you're fit. The big issue if you're doing it from the south is either a long walk at the start or at the end. Honestly, if I were to do this again I'd do it in reverse. Despite the hardship of the day I had a blast.
