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21st-22nd June 2024It wasn’t long after an excellent day (albeit a rather wet and long one) on Cioch Nose, that our eyes returned to the guidebooks and maps to plan our next adventure. This time we were eager to incorporate a Munro into a Classic Rock outing, with a desire to find something with a greater feeling of remoteness over the many options in Glencoe that overlook the A82. Naturally, the Cairngorms fit the bill, and we soon agreed that Squareface would be our goal, with the possibility to include either Ben Avon or Beinn a’Bhruid.
The opportunity to tick off the pair felt rather inviting however, but perhaps a little too much of a physical and mental push to do both, a multipitch, and the return journey from home in one day, given the lengthy walk in. After a little thought, we agreed that between the two of us carrying the ropes, full rack, tent, food, everything we needed, and the ‘just in cases’ would be reasonable enough, and Squareface sandwiched between the two Munros would be perfect with a wild camp.
We finished up work a little earlier that Friday evening and were soon crossing the Forth en route Invercauld Bridge. Parked up, we had a final few more mouthfuls of pasta, then rucksacks on and on foot by 1930. As it was the 21st June, we were chasing the solstice light of the previous day, and the plan was to walk for as long as we could before we got too sleepy, with hopes of getting somewhere handy of The Sneck.
- Digitalis
The walk in was very pleasant and easy going, with some magnificent old pines and beautiful patches of pink and white foxgloves. We paused in the Fairy Glen to soak in the magic and have a little explore of the old Slugain lodge ruins. There was a gentle breeze so the midges were in absentia - bliss.
- The Fairy Glen
It was around 2300 when we reached the junction (14km in at around 700m) that split the path west into Coire nan Clach or north up towards The Sneck. The ground was rough with heather but we found a flat(ish) spot back from the path and away from the roar of the allt - hopeful of getting a good nights rest in - and we pitched the tent under the glare of our head torches.
- 10pm light
We both woke up feeling surprisingly fresh and were grateful for a still night. On opening the tent, we found ourselves in the clag, there were a few spots of rain in the damp air, but the forecast was set to improve so we cheerfully put the tent away as we enjoyed a coffee and jam, banana, and peanut butter fruit-loaf sandwiches for breakfast. This was all at a rather leisurely pace and it was 0900 by the time we set off! But a full nights sleep was probably a sensible choice with the miles we were planning to clock up that day.
As we set off we got an eyeful of the huge erratic, Clach a’ Cleirich, that we had not seen in the dark the night previous, mega. The sacks were feeling particularly heavy first thing that morning (for me at least!) but after about 40 mins we reached The Sneck as the clouds had started to break and we were then in rays of glorious sunshine.
- The summit of Ben Avon
We set down our sacks and darted up to Ben Avon, enjoying getting our hands on the rock as we scrambled up the tor to bag the summit, a little taster for the granite filled day ahead. As we retraced our steps, with a clear view across Garbh Choire we got the map out to eye up where the west facing Squareface was hiding.
- West to The Sneck and Garbh Choire
Back at our rucksacks, over a cup of tea we agreed to approach the route from above, via the descent gully, rather than dropping down and across from The Sneck. For us this made the most sense as we could leave our big sacks and top out of the route to continue across to Beinn a’Bhruid.
As we gained the further 115 metres of height, we hung closer to the south side of Garbh Choire looking out for the route. And there it was, we were looking at it square in the face (pun absolutely intended). From here it certainly looked airy! We parked our sacks and geared up, filling our pockets with supplies. We arrived to descend the grassy gully with caution, having read a few logs describing it as tricky; we found it fine albeit steep and loose in places. There was one small patch of snow still lingering.
- Squareface approach
With 90 metres of climbing ahead of us, we cracked on, Will leading all three pitches (VD). Up close the route was far less intimidating than its first impression, but it was excellent climbing nonetheless with a nice traverse pitch and a real sense of exposure towards the top.
- The traverse pitch
Including a lunch break on the belay ledge, we were climbing for about 2 and a half hours. There were a couple of other groups starting the route just as we topped out. By the time we coiled the ropes and got back to our bags, a group of three were just starting the final pitch - we had also spotted them earlier in the day on what we thought was likely the Cumming-Crofton route. Climbers on Squareface from a distance really is a spectacle!
- Climbers on the third pitch, Ben Avon in the background
From here, it was a further two kilometres of walking to reach the North Top of Beinn a’Bhruid. As we did, we had fantastic views west to the coires of the northern Cairngorms. By this time it had gone 1700, and had become overcast with the wind picking up slightly so it was feeling cool. We were delighted to have completed our Squareface Sandwich although now faced the long walk back to the car at Invercauld Bridge.
- En route the North Top of Beinn a’Bhruid, Dubh Lochan in the background
We continued over the tops, growing slightly tiresome of the boulder fields from the South Top and down the spur of Carn Fiaclach. Eventually, we reached Quioch Water, which we needed to ford - a welcomed treat for the feet! Before too long, we were back in familiar territory passing through Gleann a Slugain, this time passing a couple of parked mountain bikes and some folk on foot heading towards the range where we had just spent almost the last 26 hours.
We got back to Invercauld Bridge at 2125. After a 12 hour day and clocking up a total of 42km over the past 26 hours, we were glad to be back putting on some clean socks and excited to dig into the snacks we had stashed for our return. Less excited about the 2.5 hour drive home but very glad to be sharing the driving. Ben Avon - Squareface - Beinn a’Bhruid, a fantastic Munro multipitch sandwich.
