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I had long fancied a crack at the West Highland Way. Having worked a lot on my fitness, holidays to use up and forecast good weather ahead, there seemed no better time than now. Especially with it being mid-late April, the midges wouldn’t be around.
Three to four days appeared manageable. I rang my friend Jordan and ran by my original intentions: Milngavie - Balmaha - Tyndrum - Kinlochleven - Fort William for a three night stay. He advised soldiering on the first day to Rowardennan as the east side of Loch Lomond is arduous and would’ve made day 2 a killer. I rejigged my plans in accordance with his advice.
Day 1:
My fabulous fiancee dropped me off at the obelisk at Milngavie at 7am on the Tuesday. Obligatory photo at the famous landmark and a peck on the cheek and I was on my way, brimming with enthusiasm.
The 96miles sign to Ben Nevis did seem a bit daunting but I love a challenge and sometimes in life you need to push yourself, perhaps even outside your comfort zone at times to feel alive.
It was quiet and I had a good pace on and didn’t stop until I reached the Beech Tree Inn at Dumgoyne. I had packed some refreshments and took a 20minute break at this point. I also took time to survey my feet, I had a pair of Salomon GTX trail shoes and I had used them a few times for short distances. I was paranoid of getting injured and was concerned maybe some heat in my inner heel on both sides were latent blisters. Purely erring on the side of caution, I put a compeed plaster on both before proceeding on to the route again. It was fairly quiet on the way to Drymen and this is one of the main benefits of an early start. I got to the Old School House and just carried on. As Conic Hill came into view, more people were visible on the route ahead. Further on, travelling from both directions. Many had used the Balmaha car park and were ascending from that side too. I went up on the middle peak to take in more exceptional views.
It was a truly multi-national affair as many European languages were audible alongside people from the US and rest of the UK.
I made the descent into Balmaha and went to the Oak Tree for some fish and chips and messaged my dad informing him of my progress. He’s done the route twice and was keen to hear how things were going and stuff. I bought some fruit at the shop and treated myself to a cone before making the eight mile or so trek to Ben Lomond Bunkhouse at Rowardennan. Am glad I heeded my friend’s advice, it was little after 2pm now and I had more than enough energy and daylight ahead for the next leg.
- First sighting of Ben Lomond
It was tiring but pleasant however. I was glad to make it there for 5 o’clock. I was ready for a rest and something to eat. The lady and man on duty that day were a delight to talk to. They also had honesty box stuff such as frozen pizzas, cans, chocolate - stuff I usually steer away from - but I made a few purchases as I felt I had earned them.
I got a shower and made aware to the people who I was sharing a room with; two Germans and a Dutchman that I was intending to get up at 4am so that I could be on the trail early to get to Tyndrum next day. I was ready for an early night.
- Day 1 Garmin data
Day 2:
I woke up just before my alarm was due to go off. I used the light on my phone to grab my stuff and strip the bed as requested by the staff. I then quietly made my way downstairs and had my porridge, toast, banana and coffee before heading back out. I was in no rush as such as I knew I had ample time and first light hadn’t occurred. I eventually set off before half 5.
I was glad to be back out so early and was sprightly going about my business. I was in the shade all the way along the east side of the loch due to the landscape but looking across to the Arrochar Alps later on that morning I just knew another good day was in store.
- The Cobbler
Similar to the day before, there was no one else around at this unsociable hour. I was enjoying the solitude of it all, taking it all in.
- Arrochar Alps from Inversnaid
I got to the end of Loch Lomond where I then emerged from the shade. I was warm and switched my light base layer into a tshirt. I was happy at my progress and kept going until Beinglas Campsite. I arrived about 1130 but could still get coffee and cake from the cafe (hot food from 12) where I basked in the sun for a good while. I then purchased some more snacks from the shop before making my way to Tyndrum. Still a fair bit to go yet, twelve miles or so.
- Pit stop
There’s no denying it was a slog.
- Ben More and Stob Binnein
Crianlarich’s mountains came into view and it gave me flashbacks to my time doing them, similar to when seeing the Arrochar ones. This was a constant thread as I passed through Bridge of Orchy, Lui group, Black Mount, Glencoe and Mamores range. I have done most of them and it evoked vivid memories of my time spent on them, who I was with - most of the time myself! - was it a repeat one, difficulty etc.
If you’ve done many of the Munros that the WHW winds its way through then the walk will definitely resonate with you more. It probably was the overall highlight to the walk, making a connection to it all and an overall sense of belonging to it.
I was more than 10hours walking this day. I checked into Muthu Ben Doran hotel and went to the Green Welly for more supplies and treating myself to one of the ample restaurants nearby. I got into the room and enjoyed the privacy of having it all to myself this time.
I had the thorny issue of having to sort out digs in Kinlochleven the next day. I phoned around and managed to secure a tentbox at the hostel. I’m not big on sleeping outdoors but it was just for one night and means to an end. Some of the prices quoted online for hotels were eyewateringly expensive. I just wanted a bed.
- Day 2
Day 3:
I had my kettle on for my now daily staple of porridge, coffee and bananas then out for a 6am start. A 30mile day ahead and was keen to crack on. I’m actually certain I had breakfast paid for but wasn’t keen on waiting til 7am for it opening. I’d be well into my hike by the time I finished at that. I made my way onto the path and wasn’t long til I was on some trodden ground from last month as the path merges on to the conventional route for Beinn Mhanach, my first Munro of 2025. It was only for a brief while though and Beinn Dorain really hogs the show for this part of the walk, another one, this time from last year.
- Beinn Dorain
I made my way into Bridge of Orchy and made a schoolboy error having crossed the bridge I stayed on the road for a good three quarters of a mile or so. I checked my map and realised there was a turn into the moorland shortly after the bridge.
- On the way back from my error!
I was well on my way to Inveroran hotel. I had to turn back and merge onto the path proper rather than scything out a large portion of the actual route. I couldn’t live with myself and if it meant adding an extra mile and a half roughly onto my day then tough!
I was glad to get back on the path proper and plenty of walkers were now out in the moorland.
- That’s better!
Presumably from nearby Bridge of Orchy hotel. There was a bit of ascent in this and when the Inveroran hotel came into view I started cravings about the shop and what it sold. It wasn’t long til I was there and got my 2 bacon rolls and a coffee ruing the fact I could’ve been here earlier if it weren’t for me taking the wrong way!
I then made my way out and headed out into the vast wilderness of the Rannoch Moor section. Plenty of people here now as it approached late morning and it was a whole lot cooler than previous day. My phone couldn’t quite capture the moors well but truth be told, the best views of them are from the tops of any of the Munros nearby.
- A watery Rannoch Moor
Speaking of which, a lot of time was consumed trying to find the best vantage point of Buachaille Etive Mor when it came into view. But the best are by far, from the south side of the A82. Maybe the Kingshouse, but most likely further up that side of the WHW path. I got a steak pie and a can of irn-bru at the Kingshouse before filling up my water bottles and back on the route.
- Buachaille Etive Mor
- A climber’s paradise
I admit, I lost a lot of concentration on the path to the devil’s staircase. I couldn’t help but be struck with the stunning architecture of the Buachaille, and kept glancing trying to pick out its climbing routes. An exquisite masterpiece in its own right. No climbers were on it at this point mind you. It wasn’t long though until the climb out of Glencoe via the devil’s staircase was upon me. I found it straightforward and was going well due to working out a lot recently I suppose. The marvellous Mamores range was spectacular from the cairns at the top where many were resting and taking in photos of their beauty.
- Top of Devil’s Staircase. Fantastic views!
It was a long descent to Kinlochleven. It was maybe a couple of miles from the town and the reality was sinking in that I only had 15miles to go the next day and it was over. It made me sad as I had been out all day and the previous two, having the time of my life and was thinking, oh no, I don’t want this to end anytime soon. I got to the Tailrace Inn for dinner and stopped my Garmin. Over 30miles done today but would’ve been slightly less if it wasn’t for my nav error earlier!
- Day 3
I then got stuff from the co-op and made my way to the Blackwater Hostel for the night. I actually felt better now than I had done previous two nights despite putting the most miles in today. I got showered and had an early night.
- Tent box
Day 4:
I had a restless night’s sleep. I don’t cope too well being outside and I had really wanted to be on the go for 5am - just before first light - in order to catch the 1140 train to Glasgow Queen Street. The train after was several hours later. I was up just after 4am and I was using the outside kettle to make porridge again. I had that and freshened and tidied up. Just before 0500, I set off on the final leg of the wonderful West Highland Way. I had a torch packed and this was of much use going through the forest, it didn’t take too long on first light and sunrise kicking in, but the torch bought me valuable time rather than sitting waiting on daylight.
- Climb out of Kinlochleven
The path up onto the old military road was fine but rough going. If you’ve set off from the Grey Mare’s tale carpark to tackle the Mamores, it is very much like that for the first section, progress can be slow. As I got up on to the old military road, the path weaves its way through the south side and up the west of Mamores.
- Kinlochleven
- Pap of Glencoe
- The long path encircling the southwestern Mamores
When Ben Nevis got into view, the top was covered in cloud, sadly.
- Ben Nevis
But I’ve had a few outings up here now doing Ring of Steall, Carn Mor Dearg Arete, the Aonachs, some of the other Mamores so I’ve seen it in all its grandeur before doing some of the other classics. I had a jog on at times as I wanted to capture some time in Fort William to buy a couple of souvenirs and have a cooked breakfast before the four hour train journey home.
I made it to the statue and asked someone to take my photo. I was elated yet sad it was over. I managed to get a cooked breakfast and had ample time to get souvenirs before my train journey home. As I say, I was very similar with a lot of this territory over the years having put countless trips on the A82, plenty outings on the ranges encompassing the WHW, and just an overall love for The Great Outdoors. It all came together nicely in little over 3 days and I didn’t miss a thing - even if a navigational error threw me wildly off course!
- Day 4
Some bits of advice and thoughts:
The time of year clearly made a difference. Cool and not too warm at times was optimal. The fact it never rained helped matters greatly too (light drizzle on Conic Hill for a mere 5minutes).
I packed economically in a 30L rucksack. Namely, 3in1 hardshell, fleece lined trousers, clean undies, tshirts, toiletries, torch, suncream, compeed and some food. My 2litre flask took up too much room so bought 2 x 500ml water bottles and refilled at various water stations.
The long days on foot suited me. If I had terminated any of my day’s a stop or two earlier I felt I would’ve been frustrated at being at my destination too early with a lot of the day still ahead of me. I enjoyed pushing myself to achieve my goals.
It’s bucket list stuff and I would highly recommend!
