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This was it, this was to be my 10th Munro and the fourth in less than two weeks for me and Laura! We were already proud of ourselves, as well as delighted that fate had managed to steer both of our holidays together.
We had conquered Conival & Ben More Assynt together on Monday, now after watching the weather very carefully, I decided that Wednesday was going to be a scorcher, or at least the weather looked as though it would be fine far North. I was right as it turned out!!
- The Harr lifts in early morning Sutherland.
Sutherland, the county of my birth. A place as dear to me as Scotland itself, and here it was bathed in the early morning sunshine as the haar lifted gently and slowly burned away in the warmth of the rising sun. As the deer glanced cautiously from behind the heathered hillocks, we drove through the lochan-dotted landscape towards Ben Hope. Dipping down briefly into Altnaharra, which was steeped in thick morning mist, we saw the sign ahead for "Hope" pointing West, we followed that road. The latter part of this road could prove a nightmare since there are very few "passing places". We were lucky enough to meet just the one car with no problems. This minor road eventually connects with the A838 Durness to Tongue road, but coming South from Altnaharra the car park for Ben Hope lies just North of the Dun Dornaigil Broch which is unmissable. Not far past the broch, there is a small plantation of Pine trees on your left, just past these trees there are some large farm sheds on the same side. So to save you going half way to the A838 like we did, (don't ask!) check the right side of the road for the car park before you reach these farm buildings!! The large sign there says it all "Way up Ben Hope".
All the reports I'd read stated that it was a steep ascent, and they weren't wrong. A boggy start surrounded by midges, took us up the right side of some bonnie waterfalls, and a large stone slab about half way up these falls, afforded us the time for photographs, and some early adjustments to Laura's attire.
Continuing upwards, the views backward were instantly gorgeous. The rising sun behind the mountain just beginning to light the greenest of glens. We strode on.
- A bonnie waterfall!
- Down the glen!
The path eventually levels out a little and then, beyond a gently sloping grassy area, the path steepens again over more rocky terrain and zig-zags ever upwards. This is a really quite draining section of path, and the going gets even tougher further up. We stopped at the beginning of the steepest part for a rest, and some overdue food and drink. This is where we realised something - we hadn't re-filled our water bottles from the stream,
and we were too far ahead to really consider going back so far to re-stock. We decided just to ration what we had, as best we could. The heat though, made for an uncomfortable final stretch to the summit cairn.
- Loch Hope
- Still a wee bit to go.
By the time we had reached the final portion before the summit, we had been passed by at least two other couples of climbers. We were to encounter more arrivals once we were at the summit and consequently more heading up as we headed down. This was indeed a busy hill today, the glorious weather no doubt having much to do with it's popularity on this particular day. Water shortage aside, the steep trek was well worth it. The views were phenomenal in all directions, and apart from a slight haze, the visibility all round was more than adequate for any ardent photographer, as you'll see from my accompanying snaps.
- The summit cairn on Ben Hope!
- Ben Loyal from the summit!
- The Kyle of Tongue from the summit.
- Loch Hope with Loch Eriboll in the distance.
After refreshments, (with minimal watering!) It was time to put away the cameras, and head off on the descent. We had spent an hour on and around the summit, and were well rested. I had particularly noted Ben Loyal and quietly earmarked it for further investigation regarding a possible future Sutherland outing. Of course, there is still Ben Kilbreck to consider, but for now I was happy to have bagged my 10th Munro in good company, good weather and an all round satisfying holiday fortnight!! The steepness of the descent was very hard on the feet, but also proved very fast. We were of course, delighted to reach the stream again and though not quite desperate, glad of a long cold drink! It seemed like very little time before we were nursing our poor tootsies back at the car.
Conclusion: Ben Hope is a superb short day's climb. The steepness ensures a more rapid ascent and shortens the descent time remarkably, (perhaps to the detriment of the feet a lttle) and the views are decidedly breathtaking. Having spent an hour at the summit, Laura and myself would perhaps be safe in claiming a total time of 6.5 hrs, rather than the stated 7.5, but we'll avoid being pedantic. Besides, 7.5 hrs is a very good time for us regardless. I doubt I could recommend Ben Hope more highly, just remember to take plenty of water, and re-fill before you go too high!