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Unfinished business…Usinish Bothy, inc. Hecla South Uist & Sheabhal, Barra.42.8k total in walking, 1472m in ascentAs a bit of a Bothy bagger (only 3 before this trip not visited in the Highlands) I was determined to get to this wonderfully located Bothy on the east coast of South Uist, not that I haven’t tried before to my peril, as can be seen by my trip report from last May
http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5581 when I unfortunately badly twisted my ankle en route to Usinish on the summit ridge of Beinn Mhor
, surely this time I would get there?
Our trip to the Outer Hebrides started from Oban on the late afternoon ferry, where we met Paul and Helen from Walkhighlands, who were off to Barra to research and walk various routes for there upcoming guide book on walks in the Outer Hebrides.
On good thing about the late ferry is that we were able to watch the sunset as we passed the Islands on the way to Lochboisdale.
After a couple of night-caps in the bar of the Lochboisdale Hotel, we camped with their kind permission behind the Hotel.
Monday 24th JulyHigh cloud, some sunny spells, calm.
The next morning I left Ele (who was going to a B&B in Lochboisdale…I think I had the best deal with my Bothy overnighter
) at 10.45am on the bus that runs up North to be dropped at the Junction for Loch Skipport (for a bargain fair of £2) from there I walked for about half a mile before I got a lift off the first car that passed. At the road end I thanked them and set of on my walk.
A good track continues passed some old ruins (and many wild ponies) for a mile or so, after that it becomes intermittent, in fact I lost it around Loch Bein and continued over the hillside north of Maol Martaig which was a bit rough going, instead of over the higher pass south of Maol Martaig, as later I picked up a track that seemed to come from that direction, after about 2.5hrs of leaving the bus I arrived at the Bothy, full of character and wonderfully located above a sweeping bay and pebble beach, with views across the sea to Skye & Rhum.
The rest of the afternoon I pottered about and collected some driftwood for a fire to mill away the evening later.
After the sunset I hit the sack for a good nights sleep, setting my alarm at 5am to catch the sunrise….
Tues 25th.Sunny, calm.
Back to bed until 7.30am, then off in the sunshine an hour later,
up the slopes of Beinn Scalabhat (564m) and just as I reached its summit, some cloud came over and sat right on top of Hecla, just typical
(or words to that effect!) I thought, but luckily this time the cloud had dispersed as headed towards the 606m summit
.
Great views, including the Cuillin ridge of Skye above some low cloud or fog to the East.
I followed the wide ridge towards Maoil Daimh, which was lovely walking...
.... compared to the last few miles that leads past Loch Airigh Amhlaidh and along the Abhainn Rog….heather, trussocks and bog with no tracks, not nice, but at least I did not have a twisted ankle this time to deal with as well, I don’t know how I managed it last time
.
Once at the road, having missed the 10.30am bus by about 30 mins, I started hitching again, getting a lift after walking about 1 mile.
That night we stopped in the newly opened Daliburgh Hostel, (which will be excellent when it’s finished…still work in progress) and had a good meal in the excellent Borrodale Hotel nearby.
Wed 26th. We walked down the coast by beautiful white beaches and the flower covered machair for 6 miles to Pollachar, where we set camp near the idyllically situated Hotel (another great but expensive meal later) During the afternoon the cloud came in from the west, and we had our only rain for the holiday which lasted until about 6pm, it remained cloudy until the following morning.
Thurs 27th.
Over to Catlebay, Barra, via the hills.Cloudy morning, sunny afternoon.
We were up before 7am, wanting to walk to Eriskay and catch the 10.15am ferry to Barra, we had walked as far as Eriskay, at the south of the connecting causeway, where we got another lift for the last mile, as time was getting tight.
Ele caught the local bus to Castlebay from the ferry terminal with the “big” rucksack so that I could walk lightweight over the hills.
After a couple of miles of road-walking I reached Loch an Duin, from there I headed for Beinn Bheireasaigh (198m) then over Grianan and a big drop (by Barra’s standards to Beul a’ Bhealaich up and over Thartabhal (where the blue skies I had been watching approaching from the west had now arrived) and finally onto Barra’s highest mountain Sheabhal, where the views a simply stunning, the whole of the Islands coastline can be seen, and great views to the Islands to the South and North.
Within about 30 minutes from there I was in the wonderful Castlebay, which was buzzing with people arriving for the Barrafest starting the next day.
We had a lovely B&B (called Endeavour) overlooking the bay, and that night had a great curry and lasagne in the excellent Café Kisimul
http://www.cafekisimul.co.uk/index.htm, and a few drinks in the very lively Castlebay bar.
Friday 28th.We left on the early 7am ferry in glorious sunny weather again on the “millpond” to Oban.
What a holiday…what a place!
