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One of my big routes I had planned for the summer was to complete eight of my remaining Cairngorms (the four in this route, plus Braeriach, Cairn Toul, Sgor an Lochan Uaine and Devil's Point) in a big two-day trip, with a wild camp somewhere near Loch nan Stuirteag. I was hoping to get out to do this on Thursday and Friday (25-26th), however, the increasingly pessimistic forecasts for those days made me change plans. It was then that I decided to tackle the four most westerly of the group, Mullach Clach a'Bhlair, Monadh Mor, Beinn Bhrotain and Sgor Gaoith, from Glen Feshie.
On the drive up the A9 (which still manages to be clogged up with lorries at 6am!) low clouds on the Drumochter Munros painted an ominous picture. However, by Dalwhinnie, a bright blue sky could be seen to the NE. Setting off at 8am from the carpark 1km N of Auchlean, I followed various paths along the Glen, eventually cutting E after the first main body of forest. The terrain here was deep heather, so it was difficult work. However, I soon found myself walking on short grass near the top of Meall nan Sleac, with stunning views down into the enormous Coire Garbhlach.
Meall nan Sleac from Glen Feshie
Back down into Glen Feshie from Meall nan Sleac
Coire Garblach
South across Glen Feshie
Once at this top, an enormous bulldozed track led almost to the first summit, Mullach Clach a'Bhlair, which I reached by 10am. From here, I could see most of the day's route ahead - across Moine Mhor to Monadh Mor (and Beinn Bhrotain hidden behind it), and then back across to Sgor Gaoith to the North.
Across Moine Mhor from Mullach Clach a'Bhlair
Towards Monadh Mor from Mullach Clach a'Bhlair
Moine Mhor is quite an exceptional place - an endless plateau of hummocks and lochans. With views over to Braeriach, Cairn Toul and Sgor an Lochan Uaine, the atmosphere was something else. However, the large bulldozed track (which, I admit, is helpful for easy route finding) does scar the landscape somewhat. I followed this all the way to Tom Dubh, then, after a fairly difficult (but still manageable without getting wet feet) river crossing, picked my way through some scree up onto the N ridge of Monadh Mor.
Braeriach from near Tom Dubh
Sgor Gaoith from near Tom Dubh
This was my first time in the cloud today (I reckon it was probably sitting just above 1000m), so the expected views over to Devil's Point and the others were disappointing. Or non-existent. However, having followed a clear path down to the bealach en route to Beinn Bhrotain (which, again, was shrouded in cloud) I caught a glimpse of the sparkling rocks of Devil's Point.
Devil's Point from the bealach
Beinn Bhrotain N crags
The ascent of Beinn Bhrotain, across a large boulder field, took me back up into the cloud again. I will have to return at some point, as I imagine it could be potentially be a great view point - towards the Tarf and Tilt hills, Southern Cairngorms and the Lairig Ghru bunch. Returning to Monadh Mor, after a total of five hours walking so far, I could see exactly the route to Sgor Gaoith. Braeriach, Cairn Toul et al looked tantalisingly close on the descent of Monadh Mor, but I knew that, realistically, they were not a feasible option! Another day, perhaps.
Braeriach, Sgor an Lochan Uaine and Cairn Toul from Monadh Mor
The route ahead - Sgor Gaoith from Monadh Mor
Braeriach, Sgor an Lochan Uaine + Cairn Toul from Tom Dubh
Descending to Tom Dubh, I cut off the main bulldozed track at a cairn to the E of a 957m bump. This track led South of Carn Ban Mor, with a cairn marking the point at which to turn North towards this top. From here, it was a simple matter of following a clearly marked path up to Sgor Gaoith.
Sgor Gaoith crags + Loch Eanaich
Braeriach and Loch Eanaich from Sgor Gaoith
Braeriach and Loch Eanaich
Towards Sgoran Dubh Mor from Sgor Gaoith
Towards Monadh Mor from Sgor Gaoith
Despite the fantastic views across to Braeriach and Loch Eanaich, it seemed that the clouds were beginning to close in, with the already freezing wind picking up, and a few showers moving across the plateau. From here, I headed back to the path S of Carn Ban Mor, and followed it all the way back down to Glen Feshie. There were two JCBs and a team of builders rebuilding the path down into the Glen - quite a location for the day job.
Looking S down Glen Feshie from descent route
Eventually I reached the car after 9.5 hours - the 1km walk back along the road to the car park seemingly much longer than it was in the morning. Still, as it turned out, I had just beaten the weather. On the road back past Loch Insh an immense flash-flood style storm engulfed the road.
All in all, this was perhaps my favourite walk of the year so far. Moine Mhor is an extremely captivating place, even if the huge tracks take away from the potentially remote feel of the area. Although the Eastern summits were shrouded in cloud, I was fairly lucky with the weather, only being rained on lightly twice. The walk had a bit of everything - Glen, plateau and peak - so I'm delighted I decided to change my original plan.
Still, I think I might have a few days off now.
