free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
When Skyepilot2 floated the idea of a walk this weekend, and I was given clearance for take-off (
), we set about exploring the options. Most of the routes featuring a Munro or Munros were deemed to be too long for the occasion, and so the short list came down to a handful of Corbetts, Grahams or Corbett-Graham combos.
In the end, we settled for this one. I'd long had an eye on the Fara ridge, dating back to September last year when time constraints meant I had to give the firebreak ascent a miss and settle for the low level lochside track along to Ben Alder Lodge whilst en route to Culra Bothy. More recently, in April, I had sat at the summit of my 99th Munro, Geal Charn, and taken in the full length of the Fara ridge as it tumbled gradually downwards from the summit towards the drop off above Ben Alder Lodge and the track over to Loch Pattack. But I also wanted to nail Meall nan Eagan at the same time, beginning from the traditional start point opposite the quarry on the road north of Dalwhinnie. This would then mean that the long trek back along Loch Ericht to the level crossing at Dalwhinnie would have to be extended along behind the village and the distillery to rejoin the car. Didn't fancy that much! This looked like a job for two cars, so here was the ideal opportunity.
We arranged to meet at the level crossing at 8.30am. I set off up the A9 and ended up tailing Robin from around Blair Atholl northwards. Upon entering Dalwhinnie, he pulled into the car park of the hotel and I pulled in alongside him. He was after a cup of coffee but the hotel was clearly not open for business (as it never has appeared to be any time I have passed it recently). After a few moments of deliberation, we headed along to spend a penny at the most excellent Public Conveniences adjoining the Village Hall before parking up next the to mobile hot food van just down the side road towards the station. Over our bacon rolls and coffee, we chatted to the owner who explained that the hotel had closed down again after a short and troubled tenure by a young couple who had got things all wrong. He also said that he had just secured funding from his bank to extend his business on the back of Balfour Beatty being encamped in and around the village for the next 5 years while construction work takes place on the Beauly to Denny power line. In the building next to the van he will shortly be opening up larger licensed premises with a bunkhouse attached out the back. We wandered round to check out the bunkhouse - it clearly needs a bit of work yet before it can be opened for business but the basics look like they are there. Dalwhinnie is looking up by the looks of things!
After all of this, it was 9.15 by the time we were up and walking along the track following the old Drovers' road to Feagour.
The Fara behind the signs at the startBeyond the Keeper's house, the track/path becomes less defined before vanishing into the heather as it approaches Meall nan Eagan. The views of the Dircs soon opened up over to our left and their craggy nature became obvious.
First glimpse of Meall nan Eagan
589 metre summit in centre of picture, Meall nan Eagan to the right, Creag nan Airdhaircean to the left
As we walk, we discuss a range of topics, but things are suddenly interrupted by a sudden burst of expletives from Robin a few paces behind me. I turn around to see him kind of hopping/dancing on one leg as he tries to compose himself and regain his poise. The cause of his expletives and weird dancing is soon apparent - an adder of not insignificant length and girth is coiled up beside a clump of heather with it's head reared up. Lucy and I must have walked straight over it without even realising it was there before Robin almost stood on it.
An adder disturbedI secured Lucy as best as I could a safe distance away while we spent a good half hour hunkered down waiting to see if it would reappear from beneath the clump of heather which it had taken refuge under. It came partially out a few times but the sun had chosen that part of the day to disappear behind a big cloud so he wasn't in too much of a hurry to put on a show for us.
From there we swung up and round onto the pointy little summit of Meall nan Eagan before heading down towards the Dircs.
Loch Caoldair from just below summit of Meall nan Eagan
Dirc Mhor and part of the Fara ridge from Meall nan Eagan summit
Loch Caoldair again from the summit
We were still undecided about our route through or around the Dircs but as the problematic nature of going through either of the giant boulder and scree strewn clefts became apparent, we decided to go straight over the unnamed 589 metre spot height. Robin decided to contour around a bit to find an easier line of ascent while I decided to stay close the the huge cleft of the Dirc Mhor to get the most of the views as I climbed. In the end this led me into a spot of bother as I found myself faced with a scramble up a very tricky, wet slab of rock. I had already thrown my walking poles on up ahead by the time I realised I wasn't going to make it and would have to retreat. 5 minutes later I was above my poles but faced with a dodgy descent on my backside down the wet rock to retrieve them. In the end, no harm was done and I caught up with Robin just below the summit, but not before he had called me to find out where the hell I had got to.
Robin on the skyline, getting reception, calling to ask me what I think I'm playing at!
Lochan na Doire-uaine and Beinn Eilde from the 589 metre summit
The Fara across the Dircs
Meall nan Eagan from the 589 spotThen came the real highlight of the day - the descent down to and around the far end of the Lochan na Doire-uaine. Lucy was in her element and Robin and I wondered at the stunning beauty and isolation of this place that we never even knew existed before now.
Lucy in the lochan, Meall nan Eagan through the cleft
Beinn Eilde across the lochan
Robin showing some nifty footwork on tricky terrain
A stunning place
Lucy bites off more than she should be chewing
Blue sky over Lochan na Doire-uaine
Once around the obstacle course of old peat preserved tree stumps around the head of the loch, we took a direct line up to the summit of the Fara, skirting the end of the eastern of the two great glacial clefts, where we stopped for lunch.
Down through the Dirc Mhor to Meall nan Eagan
Same thing, but from a little higher up
Robin and Lucy heading for the FaraThe views over to the Ben Alder group and the hills around and beyond Culra open up as we climb more or less along the old fence line which leads us eventually to the massive summit cairn with remarkable views.
To Ben Alder and the hills around Culra on the ascent of the Fara
Meall Cuaich and Dalwhinnie Distillery from the massive Fara summit cairn
View to Dalwhinnie and northern end of Loch Ericht
Cairn clambering
Lucy looking a little wind ravaged
Across the massive trench of Loch Ericht to the hills west of the Drumochter Pass and a distant Schiehallion (as ever!)
Along the ridge with the great bulk of Ben Alder in the background
Schiehallion to the left of the cairn, Geal Charn, Beinn Udlamain and a sunlit A' Mharconnaich to the right
At this point, we had a decision to make about whether to walk the length of the Fara ridge and down to Ben Alder Lodge, leaving a long hike back along the edge of Loch Ericht, or whether to take the fire break directly down to the loch. I'd fancied the ridge walk but was keen not to be too late back home, and so I determined to come back another day (preferably a winter one) and do the ridge walk. For now, we settled with a walk a short distance along the ridge, dropping down the eastern side a short way to gain the views along the length of the trench of Loch Ericht, before doubling back and dropping down to the firebreak.
Blue skies as we leave the summit of the Fara
Along the ridge
South down Loch Ericht
And north to Dalwhinnie and beyond
An Tochailt by the side of Loch ErichtA pit stop at the Moulin Hotel on the way back down the A9 rounded off a fine day in the hills.
