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Leaving Glasgow at 6:30am the signs were there - cursing forgetting to bring my sun glasses as I drove along the Expressway towards the Kingston Bridge and then the M77 south. However leaving Dalmellington the doubts began to set in, as I drove further along the A713 I found myself in dense fog and struggling to remember how to turn on the fog lights. I parked at the Carsphairn Heritage Centre (NX559933) where visibility had improved to around 100m.
I set off north along the A713 until I reached the farm road at NX556944, just past the Green Well of Scotland. I followed the track until I got to the ruined buildings that mark the site of former lead mines.
Still shrouded in mist I tried to find the track to Loch Doon that the OS think starts at NX529937, after a few minutes plodding in circles I gave up, consulted my trusty GPS, and struck off for the summit of Knockower. As I approached the summit the mist cleared and I broke into the sunshine, giving me marvelous views of the surrounding hills.
- Cairnsmore of Carsphairn.
From Knockower I continued on to the summit of Black Craig which provided me spectacular views over Loch Doon.
- Looking north to Loch Doon.
From Black Craig I headed south and then plodded up a very muddy ATV track to the summit of Coran of Portmark . During the descent from Back Craig I saw the two other humans I would spot all day, it looked like they had come up from Loch Doon and were searching to the same track I had been looking for earlier. Unfortunately they'd moved off before I could get near enough to speak with them.
- Looking back towards Black Craig.
I continued along the broad ridge line over Bow towards Meaul. All along this ridge there were great views across to Shalloch on Minnoch, Mullwharchar, and the Merrick.
- The Merrick.
After a brisk stroll I reached the summit of Meaul.
- The summit of Meaul looking towards Corserine.
I stopped in the sunshine on the summit for a quick spot of lunch, it was so pleasant it was a struggle to get back to my feet and press on to the final summit of the day. From Meaul I followed the wall east across the Kings Well and on to the summit of Cairnsgarroch. Having studied the 1:25k map before starting out I had decided that the simplest route back would be to back track to the Kings Well and the descend over the Lumps of Garryhorn thus avoiding the crags in Cairnsgarroch and having to ford the Garryhorn Burn.
This was a mistake, and the only blight on an otherwise perfect day. The 2km slog through bog concealed by waist high tussocks of grass back to the disused mine buildings was so energy sapping. The beautiful weather, which had been a boon until this point, now became a hinderance. The valley was sheltered from the slight breeze that had kept the flies at bay on the summits and ridge, so I rapidly worked up a good sweat. If anyone else wants to try this route I would suggest descending east from Cairnsgarroch and trying to pick up the track shown on the 1:25k map at NX543925 and then following this back to Garryhorn farm.
Once back at the lead mine I was able to take some photos now that the mist had cleared.
- Lead mine workings.
- Ruined buildings at the former lead mine.
- Ruined buildings at the former lead mine.
At this point I was glad to be able to retrace my steps to Carsphairn along tracks and road rather than battling across more rough ground.
As the title of this report hints at, this was one of the best days I've had in the hills in a long time. The weather was brilliant: cloud inversion, sunshine, light breeze to deter the flies. The views were also spectacular, at one point I could even see what I assume was Arran! And given that I prefer to walk alone, the fact that the only other humans I saw were half a kilometer away also helped
