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Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich


Postby foggieclimber » Wed Aug 12, 2009 6:38 pm

Route description: Sgurr Dearg and the In Pinn

Munros included on this walk: Inaccessible Pinnacle, Sgurr na Banachdich

Date walked: 02/06/2008

Time taken: 9 hours

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Hills: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich
Date: Monday 2nd June 2008
Company: Foggiclimber, Sultan, Snowpatch, Turracoo and Duncan
Time: 9 hrs 25mins (3 hrs at In Pinn – watching and climbing)


After yesterday’s exertions on Sgurr a’Mhadaidh and Sgurr a’Ghreadaidh it was another early start from Glenbrittle with the In Pin being the main target of the day. The MWIS “negligible wind” statement was correct in that the midges were out to play. :evil:

Midgefodder:
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A few hundred metres from the start we passed the Eas Mor waterfall tumbling into an impressive gorge.

Eas Mor waterfall above Glen Brittle Memorial Hut:
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We followed the path alongside the Allt Coire na Banachdich up into the coire passing through low clouds en-route.

First sight of ridge through early morning mist:
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Once on the ridge an easy ascent up zig-zagging scree led to the summit of Sgurr Dearg and intimidating views of the In Pin.

North Face of In Pin (large rockfall scar visible):
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West Ridge of In Pin:
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As we sat awaiting our turn, contemplating the climb ahead, the mists below dispersed leaving glorious views to the South.

Rum on the rocks:
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Great Stone Chute from summit of Sgurr Dearg:
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Profile of East Ridge of In Pin:
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When our turn arrived Foggieclimber climbed the West Ridge, set up the belay and in turn top-roped Malcolm, Sultan, Duncan and Snowpatch to the summit.

Turracoo ascending West Ridge of In Pin:
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Sultan ascending West Ridge of In Pin:
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Duncan ascending West Ridge of In Pin:
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Snowpatch ascending West Ridge of In Pin (Foggieclimber belaying):
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Foggieclimber abseiling off In Pin:
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After lunch and a short discussion it was agreed that we had sufficient available time to follow the ridge to Sgurr na Banachdich.

Sgurr na Banachdich:
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After a short diversion to the Southern top we had to retrace our steps for several hundred metres to avoid a c.100m sheer drop :roll: . On reaching the summit we had a relaxed descent to Glenbrittle via Coire an Eich.

Group photo at Sgurr na Banachdich summit (In Pin in distance):
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Easy descent via Coire an Eich:
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Mandatory beer or two at the Slig:
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A successful day. Five up the West Ridge of the In Pin and all back to Portree very happy bunnies.
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby foggieclimber » Wed Aug 12, 2009 8:26 pm

Spot the Difference

Comparison of In Pin (2003 ascent and 2008 ascent):

Image
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby Paul Webster » Wed Aug 12, 2009 8:33 pm

It's lost a few inches of height there by the look of it, too. Though I'm not sure many people stand on top of the topmost rock :lol:

Great climbing action shots on this report, but also liked the lot of you wearing midge hoods!
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby foggieclimber » Wed Aug 12, 2009 9:15 pm

I believe a lightning strike blasted away what was the highest rock. The top of the bolster stone is now highest.
I touched the top but no way would I stand on top of it :shock:
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby yokehead » Fri Aug 14, 2009 7:16 pm

I posted a reply on your original big report (which I preferred) but I watched as it disappeared with the deletion - I was online at the time (thanks Paul!) :(

Anyway, I really enjoyed reading about your week, best set of pics of Skye climbing that I've seen and a great incentive for me to go, maybe next year. Great job, thanks. :D
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby foggieclimber » Fri Aug 14, 2009 7:22 pm

Thanks Yokehead. I am heading back to Skye in September and will hopefully spend a few days on the ridge again.
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby walk aboot » Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:12 pm

I have enjoyed reading your walk reports this week too, foggieclimber :thumbup: ...erm, not so sure about the midge hats though :lol: .
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby bigbertie » Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:28 pm

what's all this about the changing shape of the In Pin???? Your 2 comparison photos are taken from different angles. I have a photo of me on the topmost stone in 1972 and can't see any difference (it's a poor photo by todays standards mind you). Also look at some of the old books - eg Poucher 1968 Plate 196. I shall be there again next year but in the meantime has anyone else got any definitive photos?
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby kevsbald » Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:39 pm

Im sure there must be a difference but it's hard to see - I say, you must go back there and take more photos!
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby foggieclimber » Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:42 pm

bigbertie wrote:what's all this about the changing shape of the In Pin???? Your 2 comparison photos are taken from different angles. I have a photo of me on the topmost stone in 1972 and can't see any difference (it's a poor photo by todays standards mind you). Also look at some of the old books - eg Poucher 1968 Plate 196. I shall be there again next year but in the meantime has anyone else got any definitive photos?


Posted by Mike Lates (Skye Guide & SMC Skye Climbing book author) on UKC:
"The Inaccessible Pinnacle of Sgurr Dearg has been rocked, probably by a massive lightning bolt this winter (but possibly a Munrobagger with semtex?) The result is that the top has now changed to being the 'Bolster' stone - the one with the abseil chain around it. Previously the top had been measured as the more easterly, more easily reached boulder. This is now clearly more than a foot lower in height after being literally blown away/to bits. Touching the top is now a game scramble for those over 5' 6", but a more nervy step out into space for those any smaller or wanting to stand on the summit. [...] Five different rockfalls have happened. The biggest is a section about 4m x 4m x 10m just to the left of the west ridge which should have no effect for most folk. The three sections that have come off the south face have littered the slabby areas directly below the Pinn and on the horrible slabby approach from Coire Lagan. Nasty - say no more. The climbs on the south face left of South Crack will need a lot of caution."
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby bigbertie » Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:55 pm

Interesting - perhaps I was standing on the Bolster Stone in 1972? In that case I didn't do the top.........oh no!
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby Freewheelin » Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:46 pm

Lookin' at climbs like the in pin just justifies my fear of heights... 'fraid it'll need to loose a whole lot more yet before you get my ass up there... gives me the heebies just looking at it. FECK!!! :shifty:
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby HighlandSC » Mon Aug 17, 2009 11:15 pm

Some excellent pics of In Pinn climbing :D

As scary as it looks I'd love to give it a go some day, sooner the better, but I'll be waiting a few years I think. I think I'm lucky in a small way to have some limited indoor climbing experience - but enough to be able to trust the belayer and the equipment if you fall - I find that's most peoples biggest hurdle on even an indoor wall. But on 2nd thoughts - I really don't fancy dangling from a rope off the In Pinn :lol:
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby Freewheelin » Tue Aug 18, 2009 12:08 am

HighlandSC wrote:I think I'm lucky in a small way to have some limited indoor climbing experience - but enough to be able to trust the belayer and the equipment if you fall - I find that's most peoples biggest hurdle on even an indoor wall. But on 2nd thoughts - I really don't fancy dangling from a rope off the In Pinn :lol:


I don't have a problem on indoor climbing, funnily enough :?
...must be the sneaking suspicion that after all the digs I take at Big Bruv ( :twisted: ), he would leave me dangling on the rope while he sat and had his tea-break.
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Re: Sgurr Dearg (In Pin) & Sgurr na Banachdich

Postby mountain coward » Tue Aug 18, 2009 4:20 am

foggieclimber wrote:Posted by Mike Lates (Skye Guide & SMC Skye Climbing book author) on UKC:
"The Inaccessible Pinnacle of Sgurr Dearg has been rocked, probably by a massive lightning bolt this winter (but possibly a Munrobagger with semtex?) The result is that the top has now changed to being the 'Bolster' stone - the one with the abseil chain around it. Previously the top had been measured as the more easterly, more easily reached boulder. This is now clearly more than a foot lower in height after being literally blown away/to bits. Touching the top is now a game scramble for those over 5' 6", but a more nervy step out into space for those any smaller or wanting to stand on the summit. [...] Five different rockfalls have happened. The biggest is a section about 4m x 4m x 10m just to the left of the west ridge which should have no effect for most folk. The three sections that have come off the south face have littered the slabby areas directly below the Pinn and on the horrible slabby approach from Coire Lagan. Nasty - say no more. The climbs on the south face left of South Crack will need a lot of caution."


Let's hope something (or another Munrobagger with Semtex) takes the rest of the b*** thing down before I have to attempt it! :D
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