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Friday 7 August 09
Our last hurrah before heading home to Essex.
Left the car park – midges not too bad despite the calm, humid conditions; but nevertheless had a precautionary spray of Autan. Made our way through the forestry area – much had been cleared since we were last here in ’97 and then on beyond the gate towards Beinn Dearg. Clouds were forming around the hills and then melting away almost as quickly as they formed. The air was dripping. Before long it begun to rain lightly and this always poses the question: do we stop, get out the waterproofs and invite the midges to breakfast, or walk on [briskly] in the hope of the rain stopping? Eventually we stopped. C’mon girls, breakfast – it is only the females that bite so I’m told!!! Autan works brilliantly provided you don’t sweat and rub it off!
We replenished our water just below the col and made on to the col for a pic.
We pressed on towards Cona’ Mheall leaving our packs behind a convenient rock in the grassy area and headed up the slope – easy going on the whole – just needed a little more care over the shattered rock nearer the summit. Great views of Seana Bhraigh and Beinn Dearg crags.
Someone had left an old(ish) canvass shoulder bag close to the cairn. Had a waterproof inside + a few other things. Didin’t look as though it had been there long; quite how someone could ‘forget’ it I’m not sure – perhaps they got fed up with carrying it – it would not have been comfortable on such a long walk. As we didn’t fancy lugging it around for the rest of the day it was left there. Far more care was needed on the descent – I do not enjoy descending over shattered rock – most bits are solid, but just when you’re beginning to feel confident, one wobbles!
Anyway, safely down, a quick bite, packs on and back to Meall nan Ceapraichean. On our way across the col Craig managed to find a bog – both feet halfway up his shins! He was not happy and although rarely given to swearing, a few words were muttered! Once at the top the skies cleared and for a while so did the haze – great panorama from the Fannichs round to Loch Broom.
It was good to be alive and in the Highlands – is there anywhere else like it? In my view, no where comes close and this from a good old Essex boy!
The view back to Cona’ Mheall.
An easy walk to Ceann Garbh and then down to the bealach before the final ‘up’ to Eididh nan Clach Geala. Tricky in places – very wet and so easy to lose concentration and put a foot on slime covered rock – as you may have realised I have done this more than once and seem to hit the deck harder each time! [Neville’s Law on Falling Over: tendency to bounce is inversely proportional to age.] At this point the day really turned warm – the sun felt good. The ascent was grassy and pathless; although steep to begin with it soon gave way to shattered rock and the summit – well, the first one. Another cairn on a rocky outcrop lay a little further ahead and appeared to be slightly higher – so on a little further. The views to Coigach and Assynt were wonderful.
Also, good views back to Meall nan Ceapraichean and Beinn Dearg.
We hadn’t been there long when another lone walker appeared. He had done Seana Bhraigh and was working his way back to Beinn Dearg – he did admit to ‘slowing up’ which made me feel marginally better as weariness was beginning to creep into my legs at this stage. Craig, on the other hand, was still full of energy having recovered from jet lag – then he does have 20 years on me. Then the icing on the cake – deer started to spill over the hill to the north moving down the slope – must have been over 50. Craig [from ‘Deer Hunter’ country in Pennsylvania originally] was excited; trigger finger itching as they say in all the best films.
Sadly, we had to leave the views and deer and press on. We’d said that we’d be back at the car park around 6.30 to meet my wife and daugter – it was then 3.45. Walking down western shoulder of Eididh nan Clach Geala to the lochans and then dropping to the S, we joined the stalkers’ path. It started to rain fairly heavily, but we didn’t care – what a day. As we reached the gate to the plantation we paused to remove our sauna suits [the rain had long stopped]. The midges were waiting. I think 5+ on the Lochbroom FM midge scale. Amazing how you find new reserves of energy when in mortal danger – we fairly sprinted over the next 100m and continued at a cracking pace to the car park: 6.25 and 10 hours to the minute since we started. No midges – relief.
The following day we headed S – skirting the Bankfoot road works via Dunkeld - A894 - B9099 – Luncarty. We had a straight drive through – the poor souls northbound who thought they were going to do the same were sadly undone. It would probably have taken them longer than going through the road works. We had had a charmed week: wonderful weather and walking, fantastic fishing. Already planning the next trip
