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I don't have amazing photos for this report but thought some of the info might be useful for others thinking of a similar trip. We had planned to go to Knoydart, but Hurricane Katia meant heading eastwards would be a more sensible option. My 'Circerone Backpacker's Britain: Central and Southern Scottish Highlands' had a route that looked interesting/challenging: #7 The Cairngorms High Level Traverse. Despite preferring OS maps, the dearth of anywhere selling 1:25k tuff maps and the route being across 2 sheets meant we went for the Harvey's Cairngorms 1:40k.
Day 1: Linn of Dee to Quoich Water6.0 miles, 3 hours
After driving up from Kendal this was only a short afternoon walk. The river at NO080947 required a boots off style ford, but was quite tame. We stayed on the north side of Quoich Water through the woods where there was a good path all the way. There were several good places to camp, we chose somewhere around NO104957 to be as far through the woods as possible. Went for an evening stroll to check out the ford ahead. Spotted one other tent, likely a Hilleberg Akto, but no inhabitant.
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- Glen Quoich
Day 2: Quoich Water to 872 spot height (NJ070007) via Ben Avon and Beinn A'Bhuird9.3 miles, 7 hours
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- Fording Quoich Water
The morning ford was a bit wetter than the previous day; trousers were rolled up past our knees. Motorway path above and then crossing the river up to The Sneck. Conditions got wetter and windier the higher we climbed. Very blustery on top of Ben Avon, it was a hands and knees job for me. Pretty miserable climbing over Beinn A'Bhuird, we were wet through.
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- The Sneck
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- Ben Avon summit
As we were now a half day offset from the stops suggested in the book we had a high camp next to a small tarn in the middle of a boggy moorland plateau at NJ070007. This was the only dryish spot we could find and it was not at all sheltered. Tents held up to the wind but M didn't sleep well due to noise and flapping.
Day 3: 872 spot height to Fords of Avon Refuge via Beinn a'Chaorainn 3.8 miles, 4 hours
After getting wet through the day before and not a great night's sleep we were mostly thinking of bailing out. A plan was made to exit via Beinn Bhreac. However Beinn a'Chaorainn looked so close and the sun was shining so this turned into "let's just quickly do this one also" to "we might as well take our bags and see how it goes". It was very windy on top but excellent views for the first time.
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- Fords of Avon from the slopes of Beinn a'Chaorainn
It was a quick descent to the Lairig an Laoigh. The river at NJ042028 was jumpable but then came the fun of the Avon ford. This was a full trousers off, leaning into walking poles, facing up stream, carefully placing feet affair. After the cold of the river and with rain forecast in the afternoon the newly refurbished refuge was just too tempting. The optional out-and-back Munros mentioned in the guide book were not given much consideration! We spent the afternoon reading, watching the world and weather go by and hoping no bedraggled walkers turned up who really needed the shelter. 3 people walked past but no-one stopped. Only visitor was the resident vole in the entrance way.
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- Fords of Avon refuge
Day 4: Fords of Avon Refuge to high camp beneath Braeriach via Cairngorm & Ben Macdui8.8 miles, 9 hours
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- Loch Avon
This was a great day with glorious weather. Loch Avon was very beautiful and atmospheric. We were a bit overwhelmed with the number of people on top of Cairngorm. G was mocked for expecting an actual 'handrail' around Coire an t-Sneachda; navigational term mentioned in the guide book. Took in Cairn Lochan which was much quieter than the more famous mountains. Massive DoE gold training group on top of Ben Macdui. Stunning views esp. towards the Braeriach ridge, the next day's route.
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- Braeriach ridge from Ben Macdui
Not sure we found the 'easy' way down to the Lairig Ghru, it was steep and bouldery. The book suggests camping near the Garbh Coire (ruined?) bothy but we wanted to save height loss and get ahead given the long route and bad forecast for the next day. Therefore we crossed the Dee at NN974997 (jumpable) and took the direct and steep option to a high camp at NH967000. It wasn't totally flat or dry here, but it was a good sheltered spot. Amazing views down the Lairig Ghru before the clouds rolled in during the evening.
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- Lairig Ghru from high camp beneath Braeriach
Day 5: High camp beneath Braeriach to Linn of Dee via Braeriach ridge and Corrour bothy14.5 miles, 8 hours
Woke up in a cloud. Very wet and windy on the ridge and visibility so poor we resorted to compass bearings using the steering with two people technique. I was feeling pretty down and took some determination to take in all 3 Munros. Braeriach, Sgor an Lochain Uaine & Cairn Toul all looked the same in these conditions. Difficult boulders around the Cairn Toul summit. Met one person coming the opposite way who was staying at Corrour and doing the ridge as a day walk. We had a majority decision not to take in The Devil's Point as the weather was so miserable and no views anyway.
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- Lovely views
Lunch in Corrour Bothy before the long walk out. The bothy was clean, tidy and dry; one other backpacker having lunch within. Old bridge over the Dee and easy path skirting round Carn a'Mhaim. At Luibeg decided to head straight for the bridge rather than hoping the river was crossable. Very muddy on the far side. Jealous of those with mountain bikes at Derry Lodge, the distance was starting to get to me. Shame to see the Lodge boarded up and seemingly unused, I think it would make a great remote bunkhouse. Passed loads of (inappropriately attired) DoE groups heading in; where were they going? and how heavy and wet would they be with those tracksuit bottoms and trainer-like boots?!
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- Corrour bothy
Happily back at the car and off to Braemar Hostel to dry out. Tasty dinner at The Gathering Place Bistro, highly recommended.
Lessons learnt: Soft shell trousers alone are not good enough for wet weather multi-day backpacking!
Overall: This was an excellent and wild-feeling route requiring a fair amount of commitment. As the book says, pick a period of settled weather. Care with the fords is needed and some may be impassable in spate. Once in the Loch Avon basin or on the Braeriach ridge escape routes are a long day's walk out.
