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Hecla, South Uist

Hecla, South Uist


Postby mountain coward » Tue Aug 25, 2009 3:02 am

Sub 2000' hills included on this walk: Thacla (South Uist)

Date walked: 24/08/2009

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For years, while living on the Uists in the 70s, I was confused by the name Hecla for a mountain. For a start it didn’t end in ‘val’ (or more properly, in Gaelic, ‘bhal’) and for seconds, it just looked really strange! It was years later before I read something on mountains in Iceland and realised it was actually a Gaelicised Norse word and would originally have been called ‘Hekla’ but that the Gaels had substituted a letter c for the k. Now that made far more sense.
Hekla & Ben Tarbert.jpg


Hecla was a mountain I’d always admired from out of the window at work as it was just behind the hill we worked on top of – I used to watch eagles soaring below it and one year, it actually got covered in snow for a day in the severe winter of ‘76 (snow is an extremely rare occurrence in Uist as the islands are well into the Gulf Stream).
Winter 76-Hecla & Ben Corodale Behind Work Hill.jpg
However, despite my great admiration for the hill – it was easily my favourite Uist hill – I never walked up it until about 5 years ago as it is quite some walk to get to. In the picture below, my route took the white line across the face of the hill following a natural line below crags on a wide, grassy shelf, and I descended the skyline (marked in red) – unfortunately, I don’t have a pic without Ben Tarbert in the way!
Hecla Route.jpg


To reach the hill I drove to the end of the Loch Skipport road end (not down the steep track to the pier!) and parked up. There is a little track a short way back along the road which heads south and then east around an inlet of Loch Skipport to 2 shielings (marked on the map). These are about a mile from the road end and the track ends just past them. From there I continued east past them to the top of a small hill where I could again see the coastline. At that point I decided to head south until I hit the small river which is the outflow from Loch Spotal (the loch in front of Hecla) and then follow it to the loch. I thought that would be the simplest way to navigate through such hummocky and rough terrain. The going alongside the river was very rough and, in common with most areas of Uist, there is no path to the mountain as they are rarely walked.

When I reached the lochan I thought it was ‘6 of one or half a dozen of the other’ which way I walked round it so chose the north and west sides. A spur comes down north from the mountain (actually from Ben Scalaval – a subsidiary top) and I followed that up until I reached crags.
Hekla across L Spotal.jpg
At that point I headed round the spur and soon found the grassy shelf I’d seen from the road raking easily up to the shoulder of the mountain.
Hekla W shoulder.jpg
Looking back down west shoulder
After a bit of a stiff pull onto the shoulder I turned left to see a gentler rise to the start of the crags of the summit ridge.
Hekla summit crag start.jpg


You can pick any of the grassy rakes through the start of the crags and a short climb up a narrowing ridge brings you to the summit proper which consists of an overhanging lump of crag with absolutely spectacular views, especially that towards the other main mountain, Ben More.
Hekla summit crags1.jpg
Hekla summit crags3.jpg
Hekla summit crags5.jpg
Looking steeply down into Glen Usinish below you to the south you see the lovely Loch Corodale.
Hekla summit crags4.jpg
Towering above the loch is Ben Corodale (1739 feet) with the craggiest summit of any Uist hill. Beyond that is Ben More, the largest hill on Uist at a little over 2000 feet (Hecla is just under 2000 feet). If you can take your eyes off the view in this direction, the views in the other directions are probably good too, but I couldn’t tear myself away from this one.
Hekla-glen behind1.jpg
Hekla to Ben Mhor.jpg


To descend, I headed northeast towards the aforementioned subsidiary top of Ben Scalaval.
Hekla fm Ben Scalaval.jpg
Leaving the top a fantastic smooth grassy ridge curves round southeast then east and finally north, descending gently.
Hekla E Shoulder.jpg
I followed this ridge which made for very fast walking and great views out to sea until you meet a very sudden steepening down quite large crags at the end of Beinn na h-Aire. At this point I followed the deer which had just escaped from me down the ridge – they went coastwards down the back of the ridge (east) and ended up on the col below. The descent to the col was quick and easy and I then curved back under the ridge and decided to miss out the last little lump – Maol Martaig and descend down rough ground from the col back to Loch Spotal and back the way I came.
Hecla-Beinn na h'Aire across Loch Spotal.jpg
Last edited by mountain coward on Sun Jan 02, 2011 1:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Hecla, South Uist

Postby MacCookie » Tue Aug 25, 2009 6:42 pm

mountain coward wrote:For years, while living on the Uists in the 70s, I was confused by the name Hecla for a mountain. For a start it didn’t end in ‘val’ (or more properly, in Gaelic, ‘bhal’) and for seconds, it just looked really strange! It was years later before I read something on mountains in Iceland and realised it was actually a Gaelicised Norse word and would originally have been called ‘Hekla’ but that the Gaels had substituted a letter c for the k. Now that made far more sense.


You'll find that a lot of the mountain names in the Hebrides and North West Scotland are from Norse rather than Gaelic.

You made a comment about "val" being more correctly spelt "bhal" - actually, it's from the Norse, fjall. Further south, this became "fell" (as in Scafell and Hart Fell), where as in the Hebrides it became "val" and is gaelicised as "bhal". On Skye, there are similar "val"s, such as Healaval (or Healabhal) Mhor. Some were gaelicised further - Bla Bheinn is thought to be Norse, but as Bla Fjall.

As for Hecla, apparently this is now spelt as Thacla. It has been suggested that it comes from the Icelandic, hekla, meaning cowl or hood, but may actually have come from the Norwegian, hekle, meaning comb. Norway has a Heklefjell, which could well be the source of the other Heclas in Iceland (there's a 12th century map showing it as Heklufell) and Scotland.

If you're interested in the origin of Scottish mountain names, I'd highly recommend Peter Drummond's "Scottish Hill Names" (ISBN 13: 978-0-907521-95-2).

Ewan
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Re: Hecla, South Uist

Postby munrowalker » Tue Aug 25, 2009 7:14 pm

Cracking report and pics as always MC, and I learned about the origins of the name Heckla as well. Learn one thing new every day.
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Re: Hecla, South Uist

Postby mountain coward » Tue Aug 25, 2009 10:43 pm

I may well get that book as I am very interested in the various influences on the mountain (and other) place names in Scotland - thanks.

I'm sure that the Cumbrian 'fell' is the same as bhal/val/fjall etc. too.
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Re: Hecla, South Uist

Postby FMCKIE » Thu Aug 27, 2009 2:40 pm

This will be useful as I plan to pass over these hills in the next month or so from Lochboisdale North. I posted a trip report of the first stage I did at the weekend after reading this. Cheers :D
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Re: Hecla, South Uist

Postby mountain coward » Thu Aug 27, 2009 11:40 pm

Make sure you do Stulabhal as it's a really nice hill... I did Trinibhal, Arnabhal and Stulabhal on one walk which I may yet put out there (although I don't have many good pics of it). There's also Beinn Choinnich and Truiurebheinn which are nice too - just next to Lochboisdale (you're probably planning to do those anyway).
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Re: Hecla, South Uist

Postby MarilynMunro » Mon Oct 17, 2011 7:50 am

Thanks for a cracking report and some wonderful shots, first photo made it look really innocuous, but soon opened up to a really beautiful area.
Thanks again, and a lttle bit of learning for good measure.
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Re: Hecla, South Uist

Postby 147cjl » Mon Oct 17, 2011 12:59 pm

nice report and pictures - I also worked in the RC building on top of the hill 1996-1997, great times! I tried to climb Hecla/Ben Mor once but didn't get through all the bogs and the weather got the better of me. Maybe one day though..
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