We set off from Fort William before dawn to make sure we had maximum daylight available to us, traveling down the Glen Shiel Expressway at first light with snow covered peaks on all sides. This was going to be a GOOD day!
The route up the Forcan Ridge starts at the layby just beyond the obvious bridge at the foot of the mountain. A well maintained stalker’s path winds up the face of the outlier Meallan Odhar, arriving at the obvious col between that top and Bod an Fhithich to the north. Turning south, the route skirts below the top of Meallan Odhar to reach the abrupt start of the Forcan Ridge itself. Now the fun begins.
Sgurr nan Forcan reared up ahead of us, with its head still in the early morning cloud, a mixture of black rock and white snow. Crampons on, axes at the ready, up we go on the first steep rocky scramble.
The ridge narrowed straight away, with slabby drops to either side. The snow conditions were excellent with plenty of bite, and above the sky was starting to clear.
Approaching the summit of Sgurr nan Forcan, the ridge narrowed to a fine arête little more than a yard wide. Steady now, it’s a long way down! The views along Glen Shiel were opening up and the sun was starting to shine, what a place this is!
The final climb to Sgurr nan Forcan requires care under these conditions, there is an icy slab to overcome and you really would not want to slide off it.
The view from the top along the rest of the sharp ridge across to the Saddle was breathtaking. A few yards further on came a little problem. There is a sharp 20 metre drop down from Sgurr nan Forcan to the rest of the ridge, described as a Grade 2 scramble in summer conditions, but covered in ice it becomes more interesting. However, be brave and tackle it head on, it is achievable.
Soon afterwards comes the really sharp secton of the ridge, we crossed holding onto the very top of the slab with an awesome drop the other side. The snow gave plenty of grip on the next steep rise, and onto a slight drop before crossing a wider ridge to the final steep climb leading towards the Saddle. This section appeared daunting, but was made easier by keeping to the right of the crags, using the snow to provide solid footholds.
A final stroll along the summit ridge led to the cylindrical trig point, and what a brilliant view! The sun was shining, no wind, but very cold – just perfect.
The way down was by the shallow snow filled bowl that led to the col with Sgurr na Sgine, and from there a path follows a wall to meet the approach route below the start of the Forcan Ridge. We reached our start point in the last fading light, a fabulous day.
