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From big, famous hills we moved all the way down to seaside walking, though only for one day. It was a gray morning with thick cloud forecast all over northern Scotland, so climbing higher hills looked a bit dodgy. Having done most of the Moray Coast Trail, we turned our attention to Tain area, which for us has the big advantage of being only about an hour drive away.
This particular circuit includes all that a proper shore walk should include: nice sandy beaches, high cliffs, plenty of wildlife to watch (nesting sites for seabirds, maybe you'll be lucky to spot a dolphin) plus one lighthouse and one renovated 16th century castle. Anything else needed for a good day?...
The best place to start the circuit is the fishing village of Portmahomack, which has a lovely beach and a free car park
As pictures show, weather was rather dark, with strong wind gusts... But we are not easy discouraged!
We walked through the village. At some point this little sculpture caught my eye:
It is actually an ornamental cast-iron fountain and it commemorates the introduction of gravitation water in 1887.
Just past the village and along the shore, there is a well signposted path, basically all the way to the Tarbat Ness lighthouse (about 5 km/3 miles). There area few muddy areas to cross but nothing bad enough to spoil a nice day... Ah, I almost forgot: beware of cattle and cowpats
Houses in Portmahomack and the sea:
The rocky shore just past the village:
A stile to cross:
The first stage of the circuit is on rather flat terrain nad I didn't expect that Tarbat Ness was saving its best for last. At the moment, I enjoyed the windy seaside. Some unusual rock shapes there:
The rocks were buzzing with seabirds: gulls, oyster-catchers, cormorants. To keep this TR reasonably short (ha ha ha when did I last post a SHORT report???) just a single picture here, more will go to wildlife section:
The sky brightened a bit as we continued our stroll:
A few more boggy puddles and a few cowpats further we spotted the red-and-white, long shaped building of the lighthouse:
I had a short moment of deja vu when looking at the lighthouse and then I realized it reminded me of the one in Lossiemouth (Covesea Skerries). It shouldn't be a surprise though, as both these buildings were designed and built by the famous Stevensons: the Tarbat Ness one in 1830 by Robert Stevenson and the Covesea Skerries one in 1846 by Alan Stevenson.
The lighthouse looks impressive, espoecially when you are standing below gazing up
It has an elevation of 53 metres (174 feet) and 203 steps to the top of the tower. Unfortunately it is not available for tourists and the adjacent buildings were sold to private owners. One can cross the yard though and admire the building from different angles:
Just past the lighthouse there is a car park with picnic tables (for lazier tourists
) and a good viewpoint. Here, high cliffs of the second part of the circuit are revealed for the first time:
Back to the lighthouse:
After a short diversion on tarmac road we walked back down to the seaside, with an old jetty and a ruined house:
The tide has turned and some more sandy beaches showed up:
Here, once we found a sheltered spot under a steep rocky cliff, we stopped for a longer break and something to eat. It was getting warmer now and the day felt pleasant...
The path on this part of the route stays below the cliffs most of the time:
One last glimpse back to the lighthouse:
A quick climb up the cliff...
...only to descend back to the shore again:
We took a few more breaks to take pictures and watch seabirds:
We walked below the impressive cliff of birds - Creag nan Eun. It was full of herring gulls and I guess in later spring it must be a great spot for watching little ones
We turned another corner and suddenly, something beautiful came into view:
It was Ballone Castle and further along, Rockfield village:
The castle is actually a large late 16th century Z-plan tower house and it makes an impression, especially when you realize that only about 20 years ago it was completely ruined, falling apart... It's fantastic that it's been saved for next generations... Even if you can only admire it from the outside:
An interesting set of old photos, showing Ballone Castle in ruined state, is here:
http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=15632This will give you an idea of how much work must have been put into returning this lovely building to life... Job well done!
Me and the castle:
Ballone from the south:
We walked below the castle and towards Rockfield:
From the village we took a tarmac road up the cliffs. The final part of the circuit is the least interesting one, it crosses the peninsula back to Portmahomack. In a short time we were back at the car park and ready to go home
Summing up, this is one of the best seaside walks I've done in Scotland so far. Just such a shame about the weather as this circuit is crying for a warm sunny day! Nothing lost though, we live nearby and there will be plenty of opportunities to go back. Meow!
