50+ at 30 Part 2: "The Unrelentingly Tedious Moan-dhliath"

[SMRussell]

As mentioned in "50+ at 30 Part 1" at the end of March my other half (RTMcB) turned 30. To celebrate we spent four days bagging Munros. The first day involved beautiful day above Loch Laggan (see http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=20068) and our second day was another round of three, but this time up on the Monadhliath in increasingly overcast and windy conditions.

Before the negative vibes really kick-in I feel I should note a few things - firstly these hills would probably provide a great day in the hills during the snow season, Carn Dearg is a good looking Munro and offers some great views. Plus the cairn right on the cliff edge provides a sense of danger . I believe it would be more enjoyable to tackle this route starting with A' Chailleachin (which has a grand looking cairn) enabling the views to Carn Dearg to be fully appreciated. I also think these would have been more agreeable to me if we hadn't experienced such a wonderful walk just the day before creating a stark contrast.

Having said that... Monadhliath will forever be known as "the unrelentingly tedious Moan-dhlaith" for 2 key reasons;

1.We met a group of three walkers during the long trudge between Carn Dearg and Carn Sgulain and during the discussion of our underwhelming choice of hills one of the walkers remarked "what did the guidebook say? Unrelentingly tedious?" which of course we agreed was a pretty spot-on description
2. I'm ashamed to admit that while I was able to find intermittent moments of enjoyment (such as Scotch egg munching) I must have wasted about 35minutes all told in moan-mode due to a) that horrid bog-fest on approach to Carn Dearg b) the never ending and uneventful plod over to Carn Sgulain and c) the fact that Carn Sgulain has to be worlds most anti-climactic and soul-destroyingly dull Munro. Not only is it dull to look at it is also dull to look from - the views were lacklustre at best.

An additional annoyance which resulted in Moody-Munro-Madness was RTMcB's insistence that I was wrong about something. Usually this would result in jovial debate ( ) but not after Carn Sgulain's happiness assassination . During our descent of A' Chailleachin we lost sight of the path due to the increasing bog factor. Looking back towards the summit I could clearly see the stalkers path and noted that it appeared to be heading in the direction to link up with the highly visible (to me) landrover track on the western side of Creag an Loin and thus back down to the car park. RTMcB was convinced we should be aiming for the east side of Creag an Loin. The Moody-Munro-Madness appeared to throw RTMcBs map reading out the window and the more he tried to explain what he meant on the map the more the Madness took hold - I simply didn't follow why on Earth he thought we should head to the eastern side. So a frustrated, down right abusive but at least brief argument broke out. In order to end the dispute and because my own bout of Moody-Munro-Madness had me questioning my ability to read the land and map I shrugged and angrily stated "fine, if that's what you think we should do, we'll do it". Of course this meant we would head in the general direction of the east side albeit a good 10 metres apart. Eventually the further we descended the more RTMcB realised that I was on to something and we converged once more to plan the best route down. It became apparent that he had now noticed the landrover track and it was concluded that I was indeed right. So now we headed to the west side less than 10 metres apart.

Eventually the somewhat dilapidated bridge over the Allt a'Chaorainn was in sight and crossed. Once on the landrover track RTMcB and I gave each other apologetic grins before hot footing it to the car. Once showered (and I should add dressed) and sitting in a bar in Kingussie with a pint of real ale each the funny side was apparent, as was our need for a good night's kip. That was 6 Munros in 2 days and the following 2 days would involve another 4. Thankfully the Madness did not return!

Scotch eggs - essential hill walking provision

Carn Dearg

View from Carn Dearg

The Munro that tested my faith due to being so very dull: Carn Sgulain

A fine cairn on A'Chailleach

The other reports:
Day 1: http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=20068
Day 2: This report
Day 3: http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=20172
Day 4: http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=20174

[mrssanta]

maybe these are Munros for a foggy day then you wouldnt miss the boring view ?????
but anyway you gave me a smile.

[PeteR]

I think I see a job opportunity here with Visit Scotland

I still have these hills to do, but it looks like a trip for next winter then

[pigeon]

Did these back in february on a cloudy wet day and strangely enough quite enjoyed them There was 7 of us out that day so that helped i suppose(and no arguements between us )

[SMRussell]

maybe these are Munros for a foggy day then you wouldnt miss the boring view ?????
but anyway you gave me a smile.

I'm glad the tale caused amusement - it definitely was a 'we'll laugh about this later' outing. Like I say - not the best set of hills for a spectacular day out but there are always way of improving it.

I think I see a job opportunity here with Visit Scotland

I still have these hills to do, but it looks like a trip for next winter then

Ha! I really know how to sell 'em!
Snow is the best antidote for a dull hill

Did these back in february on a cloudy wet day and strangely enough quite enjoyed them There was 7 of us out that day so that helped i suppose(and no arguements between us )

Its all subjective my dear Pigeon! But yeah, when the company is good I guess the hill doesn't matter (not that RTMcB was bad company... I probably was with my occasional "God these are dull aren't they... I mean really... aren't they?")

[simon-b]

The views don't look that bad!

Even if these hills lack the drama of the mountains further west, your photos have a certain haunting look about them that's appealing in it's own way.

Which bar in Kingussie did you go to, by the way?

[ChrisW]

I'm loving the madness, though I have to say everything was forgotten when I saw that scotch egg photo...man I miss scotch eggs....I'm going to have to make some later this week

[SMRussell]

The views don't look that bad!

Even if these hills lack the drama of the mountains further west, your photos have a certain haunting look about them that's appealing in it's own way.

Which bar in Kingussie did you go to, by the way?

The photos with views are from around Carn Dearg which, as I say, is a nice looking hill and therefore I think this walk could be improved by starting with A' Chailleachin and ending on Carn Dearg. I probably am being a bit mean on these hills. I think if we hadn't had one of our best hikes up above Loch Laggan the day before they would have seemed a little dull but still enjoyable rather than tedious. I should add that the view down the little valley between Creag na h-lolare and Creag nan Abhag from the landrover track down from A' Chailleachin is lovely.

BUT more importantly - the pub was the Silverfjord Hotel (http://www.silverfjordhotel.co.uk/). We stayed there for 2 nights (£80 for 2 people for 2 nights b&b). We had dinner there one night which was really nice - I had the fish and chips which came with a decent portion of muchy-peas They only had one pump on for the real ale which was connected to a keg of Trade Winds from the Cairngorm brewery. They had bottles from the brewery also. The only thing I'd say about the ale was it was a bit too chilled for me. Real ale shouldn't be cooled to the same degree as lager. We'd had a pint of Trade Winds in a pub in Newtonmore (Braeriach Hotel... I think) which was just right the day before.

[SMRussell]

I'm loving the madness, though I have to say everything was forgotten when I saw that scotch egg photo...man I miss scotch eggs....I'm going to have to make some later this week

The Madness doesn't happen often but oh... when it does!

No Scotch eggs! Finally something Canada can't offer! Scotch eggs (and pork pies) are a treat in the hills. Although you've got to be careful - one time while eating a Scotch egg on the move I took a quick breath in and the crumbs from the outside flew into my throat resulting in a rather aggressive coughing fit Delicious but dangerous snack !

[dooterbang]

In my humble opinion the female species is always correct

Great effort after the day before as its a decent distance.

I did these in winter...12 hours it took in whiteout conditions, strangely enjoyable and memorable.

Looking forward to the other 4 now.

[simon-b]

Which bar in Kingussie did you go to, by the way?

BUT more importantly - the pub was the Silverfjord Hotel (http://www.silverfjordhotel.co.uk/). We stayed there for 2 nights (£80 for 2 people for 2 nights b&b). We had dinner there one night which was really nice - I had the fish and chips which came with a decent portion of muchy-peas They only had one pump on for the real ale which was connected to a keg of Trade Winds from the Cairngorm brewery. They had bottles from the brewery also. The only thing I'd say about the ale was it was a bit too chilled for me. Real ale shouldn't be cooled to the same degree as lager. We'd had a pint of Trade Winds in a pub in Newtonmore (Braeriach Hotel... I think) which was just right the day before.

I've had a pint and a meal at the Silver Fjord too, last June. Apparently that's a favourite of the local shinty team. I was in Kingussie two weeks ago on Saturday and there'd been a match on. So I was advised by my hosts at Allt Gynack Guesthouse to go to theTipsy Laird instead to be sure of getting a table. You're right about the beer temperature - a thing Scots and English definitely agree on.

[Ranger]

Enjoyed reading that, a funny report

I'd love to come in with the sanctimonious "no hill is dull, only people are dull" copyright Hamish Brown etc....

But no. I did these hills in 2001 and my contemporary account reads:

My route to Carn Sgulain was uninteresting and gave me my first taste of the miles of peat bogs that were to await me. The summit of Carn Sgulain was as dull as you could possibly imagine...as I began the long trudge towards Carn Dearg, light snow was swept horizontally and stingingly into my face. On another day this may have been a hindrance, but today it was a moment of excitement to enlighten the tedious walk... As I was approaching Carn Ban, three other walkers doing the round clockwise were unfortunate to stumble upon my ill temper. ‘Tedious’ – I snapped, when they enquired as to what awaited them on their walk.

Sorry Hamish ...

[SMRussell]

In my humble opinion the female species is always correct

I did these in winter...12 hours it took in whiteout conditions, strangely enjoyable and memorable

Good man! Perhaps I should head into the hills with you next time.
A whiteout on these hills would have most certainly been a blessing.

I've had a pint and a meal at the Silver Fjord too, last June. Apparently that's a favourite of the local shinty team

That's handy to know as we may well head back in the future!

[SMRussell]

Enjoyed reading that, a funny report

I'd love to come in with the sanctimonious "no hill is dull, only people are dull" copyright Hamish Brown etc....

But no. I did these hills in 2001 and my contemporary account reads:

My route to Carn Sgulain was uninteresting and gave me my first taste of the miles of peat bogs that were to await me. The summit of Carn Sgulain was as dull as you could possibly imagine...as I began the long trudge towards Carn Dearg, light snow was swept horizontally and stingingly into my face. On another day this may have been a hindrance, but today it was a moment of excitement to enlighten the tedious walk... As I was approaching Carn Ban, three other walkers doing the round clockwise were unfortunate to stumble upon my ill temper. ‘Tedious’ – I snapped, when they enquired as to what awaited them on their walk.

Sorry Hamish ...

Finally, someone else whose experienced the anguish!