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Knoydart.
Ever since watching that Wilderness walks episode as a young whipper-snapper in wiltshire - the one where McNeish has David Craig with him waxing lyrical about the clearences - I'd dreamt of venturing into the rough bounds. Ladhar Bheinn is one of those Munros that you really have to
want to get up, it doesnt fall into your lap without some dedication to the cause. Now was my time
April’s weather had been strange, with most of the country moaning about record rainfall, the West Highlands seemed to be basking in crisp, clear conditions. Once the glow from my last trip to Skye had worn off, after a week or two champing at the bit I finally got the chance to head west again - though a commitment for the sunday would restrict my activities to the one full day.
After an alarm call at 3am, and a long, long drive from Aberdeen, my reward came as I reached the Glen Garry viewpoint, with blue skies, snowy peaks, and an inversion of cloud bubbling up from in the glen - that makes 3 times driving along the Kinlochhourn road, and 3 identical blue sky/inversion conditions - my lucky road!
With the broom out and the water serene, I was leaping in and out of the car for photos every 50ft or so!
- Sgurr Mor,Sgurr na Ciche across Loch Quoich
- Looking to south Glen Shiel ridge
After the narrow road plunges into Kinlochhourn like a rollercoaster, I set off at 8ish with the scene just perfect: from the seaweed, to the spring leaved trees, the lichen on the shoreline rocks, the blues of the sky and loch, a dazzling array of colour.
- Kinlochhourn bay
- Sgurr na Sgine above Loch Hourn
Tantalising glimpses of Ladhar Bheinn are frequent as the path winds along the rocky shoreline, which is ideal tonic for the two 100m climbs that make the walk a wee test of resolve!
- Ladhar Bheinn from the path
After spotting the teeth of Sgurr nan Gillean in the distance the track swings into Barrisdale bay with a white sandy beach covered with little shells, Ladhar Bheinn in all its glory above.
- Luinne Bheinn from Barrisdale Bay
I reached the bothy just after 11 and stuck some food into a wee rucksack and dumped the rest of the gear - sleeping bag etc to be picked up later. I’d been weighing up whether to tackle Ladhar Bheinn or soldier on to less glamorous pair of Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe. I opted for the latter and for a while there was a wee sense of anti-climax, the direct, pathless route up the north face of Loony Bin probably not helping my listless mood. The best way to raise the spirits is of course, a summit ridge! Picking out a snowy Ben Cruachan amongst a sea of peaks is always a wee boost for some reason.
- Summit ridge of Luinne Bheinn
After a bite of lunch I began the long stravaig across to Meall Buidhe, overtaking a woman who - like everyone else (including, little did I know, a WH's crew) I'd passed was heading back to Inverie - by this point I was becoming a little jealous at the thought of winding down the day with a pint and pub meal
- East top of Meall Buidhe, Sgurr na Ciche and Nevis range beyond
The summit ridge of Meall Buidhe had terrific views, especially east past a top to the Nevis range, gleaming white and standing out beautifully.
- Thanks to whoever this was for the pose!
I descended the snowy north ridge and a cheeky short cut through the slabs on the north face soon had me peering over ominous drops and cursing not sticking to the ridge proper - avoiding a lower river crossing in case of spate conditions, a bit of overkill in these conditions!
I’d decided more or less that I'd be heading back to the bothy and the prospect of the long walk out that night, it was approaching 5pm after all. I'd descended 100 yards down from the pass before I just thought, sod it! I don't want today to end!
I turned round, headed back up and started traversing across to Ladhar Bheinn. A steepish grass slope took me onto the ridge, then it was just a case of following the path over the bumps and humps - the odd slab or two to scramble up.
- Looking back along the rim of Coire Dhorcaill
Reaching the summit was incredible - a curtain of snow on the north face, hanging from the narrow summit ridge that lead the eye to the razor sharp outline of the Cuillin ridge - and beyond to Uist et al - stunning!
God bless digital cameras is all I can say! I was on my own, no-one to celebrate this moment with, but looking back, what a last Munro it would have been
- Beinn Sgritheall - one of my last few!
- Summit ridge of Ladhar Bheinn
At 8pm I thought I'd begin the descent, leaving some daylight for any snowy bits of ridge just in case. I used 5 points of contact for the first part of the Stob Choire Odhair bit, but after that it was just a fantastic grassy arete, a path making things easy but the exposure a delight all the way.
- The ridge down from the Munro summit
- Looking back to the steep bit off the summit
I couldnt resist a somewhat chilly wait to see the sun disappearing behind Sgurr nan Gillean, then it was a swift charge down the grass slopes into the corrie to pick up the path whilst light remained.
- The sunset was enjoyed from one of these bumps
The head torch soon came on and despite losing the paltry looking (maybe it was the dark) path on the boggy flats in the bay, I made it back to the bothy for 10.30pm. Pasta sauce and super noodles by candle light to round off the evening in style
I wanted to be back in Aberdeen by midday so the alarm call was a sickening 3.45am
Despite no sun to warm me I'd wandered back along the loch path to be back at the car at 7am. The drive back was glorious, another fantastic day for the hills but after 14 hours, 3 Munros and 450 odd photos of the most stunning scenery imaginable, I was contented with my lot
