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This was my first trip to Inverie in Knoydart, and the weather reports promised a dry and sunny weekend. I didnt expect it to be sooo hot! With the weather, it made this walk a challenging long day where people where falling ill through mild sunstroke or just blatant exhaustion. Still...that aside.....it was very unjoyable!
Getting the 2PM boat across on the Friday from Mallaig, staying in the Knoydart foundation bunkhouse, we were fresh to start on the Sat morning. We started at 6:30am to try and do most of the climbing before the temp got really hot. From the road in Inverie heading SE, you eventually come to a sign indicating the way to Dubh-Lochan. Take this track, and cross a gate .
- Sign to Dubn Lochan
The track makes its way beside the Inverie wood trees in a gentle slope, heading to Dubh Lochan. It passed a cross on a hill which looked stunning in the morning sun.
- The cross
Our pace we worked out was a staggering 6km/hr as we made the end of the Lochan in just one hour.
- Looking back on Dubh Lochain
We could see our intended route for the day...Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe.
- Luinne Bheinn
- Meall Buidhe
Leaving the Lochain behind we started our first ascent up to Mam Barrisdale, the Bealach between Ladhar Bheinn and Luinne Bheinn. It was only 8am but it was 25C! This was going to be a hot day, with many water stops.
- Starting our climb up the track to Mam Barrisdale
A small cairn marks the top of the bealach. It took about 2 hrs to get to this point.
- Top of Mam Barrisdale Bealach
From here, an obvious track headed SE, countouring aroung Luinne Bheinn for some time, following a line of old iron fence posts.
- Track around Luinne Bheinn
At first it seemed it was heading down but eventually, the path fades away, and you have to just start climbing up its face after a km or so, which was brutal.
- Start of the hard climb to the top
- Looking down from climb
Eventually we got to the top of Luinne Bheinn around 11am. We got great views of Barrisdale Bay (the alternative route up), and all the surrounding hills.
- Top of Luinne Bheinn at last!
After a well deserved water break and rest, we headed east along the track to the other top of Luinne Bheinn.
- Track to top
From here, the track desended steeply with some small bouldery bits to navigate by.
- Some steep boulders
- Descending off Luinne Bheinn
The track makes its way through Coire Odhar. It was relativley easy going, and the track made it easy to navigate through the bouldery field. We could see the ridge of Meall Buidhe 2km away in the distance. But first , the wee top Drum Leac a Shith had to be climbed.
- Ridge to Meall Buidhe
- Ridge from Druim Leac a Shith
By 1pm we reached the top of Drum.
- The rocky ridge up Meall Buidhe
By now the sun was brutal, and it felt like 30+C. with no shade. The going up the ridge was slow going, more of a slow plod, and constant sips of water. The track continued up the ridge, which was surprisingly scrambly in places (but not exposed). After another hour of climbinh we reached the top of the ridge, and had another 1/2 km of walking round to the top.
- View from top of ridge to top of Meall Buidhe
We eventually reached the top of the second peak 2.20pm, nealry 8hrs from when we started.
- Top of Meall Buidhe
From here,we got great views of Skye, Rum and Eigg.
- Views of Skye
We could also see our route back home, and how long away it was, (another 9km or so). down the western ridge.
- Ridge back home
Eventually after a tiring long decent, we got down to the base of the hill (808988) only to be faced with a boggy marsh across to the river. It seemed the hill was having the last laugh on our knackered bodies! Water had run out, and we still had 3km walk. We got to the footbridge (801988), and finally made our way back to the track near the cross, from where we started. A slog back to Inverie, and finally arrived back 11hrs from when we stared, hot, tired, and very thirsty.
It was probably one of the hottest days I faced in the hill, which made this long route that bit harder. The next day all plans to do Ladhar Bheinn were off, and instead spent the day recuperatering with some well deserved guinness and mussells at the old forge (which have to be recommended along with the fish platter!)
