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At last, some Sun! And we were in Ullapool on the Friday evening with two days of hillwalking ahead, so things were looking up.
Ullapool in the evening by
GariochT, on Flickr
The cloud had set in again the following morning, when we set off from the road near Knockan Crag. We headed up the good path that wove its way past Lochan Fhionnlaidh to the east and Loch an Laoigh to the west.
We started to ascend Meallan Diomhain, the broad southeast shoulder of Cul Mor and as we got higher, the tops of Cul Mor and Suilven were gradually revealed.
On the ascent of Cul Mor by
GariochT, on Flickr
Suilven by
GariochT, on Flickr
There were extensive views to the east, across Lochs Urigill and Borralan and down Glen Oykel.
Coigach by
GariochT, on Flickr
From the top of Meallan Diomhain there was a good view of the corrie which appeared to contain a giant's staircase at its centre.
Cul Mor by
GariochT, on Flickr
We headed northwest, to ascend by the slightly gentler northeast ridge rather than tackling the hill head-on. The clouds were moving fast and continually obscuring then revealing Suilven in the distance.
Suilven in the clouds by
GariochT, on Flickr
After a short scramble on quartzite blocks, we reached the summit, cloaked in cloud. We stopped for lunch and gradually the clouds cleared, allowing us views down to Loch Veyatie.
Boulder field by
GariochT, on Flickr
View from the top by
GariochT, on Flickr
However, the best views were yet to come! We gradually descended to the plateau to the west of the summit, and enjoyed stunning views from here – across to Suilven, Stac Pollaidh, Cul Beag and beyond.
On the plateau by
GariochT, on Flickr
On the plateau by
GariochT, on Flickr
Suilven and Loch Veyatie by
GariochT, on Flickr
P1040850 by
GariochT, on Flickr
On the plateau we spotted a few plants of Norwegian mugwort, which in Scotland is apparently only found on three mountain tops: Cul Mor, Seana Bhraigh and Carn Ban!
Norwegian mugwort - only found in 3 places in the country! by
GariochT, on Flickr
We also found a leveret which was staying perfectly still, hoping that we hadn't noticed it, until it scampered away.
Leveret by
GariochT, on Flickr
The next target was Creag nan Calman which didn't seem far away but involved quite a steep ascent. The steepness was worth it for the views though, to Stac Pollaidh and its watery surroundings.
Stac Pollaidh and its watery surroundings by
GariochT, on Flickr
Stac Pollaidh by
GariochT, on Flickr
On Creag nan Calman by
GariochT, on Flickr
We descended east on steep grassy slopes, eventually reaching the main path that took us back to the cars.
Descending by
GariochT, on Flickr
There was then time for a short visit to the nearby Elphin Folk Festival (free entry and £2 for coffee and cake!) and Knockan Crag.
Thistle by
GariochT, on Flickr
A Man in Assynt by
GariochT, on Flickr
Glaciers, grinding West, gouged out
these valleys, rasping the brown sandstone,
and left, on the hard rock below - the
ruffled foreland -
this frieze of mountains, filed
on the blue air - Stac Polly,
Cul Beag, Cul Mor, Suilven, Canisp, a frieze and
a litany.
....
Who possesses this landscape? -
The man who bought it or
I who am possessed by it?
False questions, for
this landscape is
masterless
and intractable in any terms
that are human.
(From
A Man in Assynt by Norman MacCaig)