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Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)


Postby Mountainlove » Wed Jul 18, 2012 11:03 am

Route description: Creise and Meall a'Bhuiridh from the Ski centre

Munros included on this walk: Creise, Meall a'Bhuiridh

Date walked: 14/07/2012

Time taken: 6.5 hours

Distance: 8.81 km

Ascent: 1084m

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Having watched a selection of rock climbing movies throughout the past months, I was in awe. People like one of the best free climbing women in the world fascinated me and having watched some clips on youtube I decided that I had to do the same, after all in my mind I was already the female version of cliffhanger. :D :D :D

Motivating one of my friends, who had all the equipment, to take me to rock face close to my home, was also pretty easy and soon after I stood in front of a tall wall. In my mind I already had images of me gliding effortlessly up the rock face…(dreams are a great thing) :roll: 8) :lol:

Strapped in my harness I set off and within seconds I realized one thing...that piece of rock did not behave the way, I wanted it to behave and it was difficult
Listening to my friend shouting instructions from below, I inched myself forward. Effortless goddess was not really what popped into mind at the time…terrified window sucker was more matching, while I clung to the wall by dear life, cheek pressed against the cold rock and arms and legs spread out like a starfish.. :shifty: :shifty: :shifty:

Inching myself higher, I got to a bit which in my mind resembled a polished piece of rock. By that time I felt as stiff as a dead body and with aching arms and hands I decided to give up...after all the harness would hold me!
Shouting down to my friend that I would let go, was answered with a Noooo!!! WTF :wtf: :wtf: :wtf: No???
Looking down (with my arms feeling as if they just done 200 press ups) I said ‘Why not?’..The reply was: ‘You climbed to the side, you will swing back’ :shock: :shock: :shock:
Argh! looking at the rope and to my left, I realized that a swing along a rock face (inexperienced), would result in some rather nasty collision with hard rock. Feeling close to tears at that point I inched myself back until I was in a position to let go..safely held by my harness and my friend at the button. :thumbup:

Defeated I stood back at the ground and decided to climb something which resembled the scrambling routes (just steeper) I would like to go up on Munros but would have never dared.
The next bit was a 'crack' which run up the whole cliff face. Task was to use the crack to climb up -much easier looking anyway. With new motivation I climbed up when I suddenly heard my friends shouting: ‘ Watch the spiders in the crack, at this time of the year there will be hundreds’ Needless to say my mind answered that comment with images of huge black spiders, crawling over my hand...shaking off the goose pimps I climbed (without any encounter of huge black spiders) to the top! Yeah!
DSC01956.JPG
The image I had in my mind (might need a wee bit more practise)

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Climbing in the 'crack'



our_route.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts



2 days later I stood with new found confidence in front of Creise at the bottom of Glen Etive. Nearly a year ago I climbed Creise as a single Munro, but since then, I was annoyed that I missed out on Meall a'Bhuiridh
Obviously there was no question about the fact, that I would take the straight up route, but I wanted a more difficult route.
DSC01948.JPG
Creise and the way up

The first 2/3 of Creise are easy, steep, but without any difficulties. Close to the top, you will find some serious scrambling options. There are even some real climbing options, but I guess I will leave that for some point in the future. Instead I was looking steep, yt doable. My wish was soon answered when I saw the gully. Steep from the distance,I decided that it was the climb I would not have dared before and over loose scree I walked towards it.

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On the way up

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Steep but nothing too hard

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Towards Glen Etive

When I reached the bottom of it I realized one thing...that gully was vertical – scary yet perfect!
I might not be a perfect rock climber, but scrambling is something I love . The gully proved a lot harder than I imagined. Hand holds were plenty, they were far apart. Reaching up, I held onto a rock and pulled myself up....only to realize that the next rocks in which I had planned to place my feet were higher than imagined. Looking around there was no other option but to try it again with a jump. Doing that I managed to get to the gully and moved forward in a steady pace. Close to the top of the gully I saw a triangular rock sticking out of the ground and with a quick jump I held onto it and pulled myself up. In the same second the rock started to move in my hand and I realized, I had to act fast. Using my legs I pushed up, pressed against the rock to stop it from falling and managed to grab the rock face to my right, which was solid. Note to self - gullies have lots of loose rocks! The last bit was easy with solid rocks and soon I stood above the gully. Looking down looks always more scary but this gully was steep! Had to admit it myself!
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The gully from the top

DSC01988.JPG
The route I came up


From there the last few meters were easy scrambling over big rocks towards Scon na Creise. The top which isnt the top of the Munro is a great place to rest and to take in the great views down Glen Etive (some of my favorite)

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Glen Etive


The walk afterwards is easy. You will reach another blind summit, before you see the real top of Creise. Rather boring in comparison to the climb up the site of it.
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Well earned pint :-)

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just had to be done

From there you will have to take an easy scramble down and up Meall a'Bhuiridh.
For the walk back I decided to head down the grassy slopes of Creag Dhubh. Many choose the route down to the car park at the ski lift center, but I would suggest the route I took.It saved the long walk back to the car and was pleasant without any encounters of other hikers.
DSC02018.JPG
The walk back


One of my heros...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N70DLM8Az_8
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Mountainlove
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby monty » Wed Jul 18, 2012 2:21 pm

An interesting route up Creise. :D As we have come to expect from you M. :D

Mind you if your thinking of following in CD's footsteps or should that be handholds, then a bit more training might be required :lol:
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby ChrisW » Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:35 pm

Great stuff ML, I've fallen in love with the scrambling over here but climbing just takes too much effort :lol: :lol:

I love your reaction to the no skiing sign...exactly the right thing to do. Anyway, don't be down on yourself for the climbing turn back, it was your first attempt. :clap:

You did make a good steep ascent with a few dodgy bits along the way (I know that feeling when you think you have a hold and suddenly it moves as you put weight on it :shock: ) Great report anyway with some cracking photos along the way :D
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby 147cjl » Wed Jul 18, 2012 4:11 pm

Nice one ML, the direct approach wins again :) good stuff and the skiing pic's the best one :)
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby hills » Wed Jul 18, 2012 4:34 pm

Goodness, that looks hairy, not for me but well done to you. :D
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby BobMcBob » Wed Jul 18, 2012 7:19 pm

Hehe I love your reports, you're a bit crazy :D Can't beat a good scramble, I'm off up to Glen Coe next week hopefully so I'll have to have a look at Creise, your route looks fun.
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby pollyh33 » Wed Jul 18, 2012 8:11 pm

Well done ML on giving the scrambling a damn good go and for submitting another fabbie report :clap: :clap:

I descended Creise the way you went up and it was more hairy canary than I would have wanted :shock: :shock: Still it made for a more interesting day out :lol:


P XX
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby Scotjamie » Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:49 pm

Did the less exciting walk through the ski paraphenalia last year, returning back over MaB and now wish I had tackled the Sron - Nice one ML, dangling, scrambling, skiing and walking...no hang gliding? :)
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby Mountainlove » Thu Jul 19, 2012 8:20 am

monty wrote:An interesting route up Creise. :D As we have come to expect from you M. :D
Mind you if your thinking of following in CD's footsteps or should that be handholds, then a bit more training might be required :lol:


Thank you Monty...regarding training...she might has a slight advantage with 14 years of training :lol: :lol:

ChrisW wrote:Great stuff ML, I've fallen in love with the scrambling over here but climbing just takes too much effort :lol: :lol:
I love your reaction to the no skiing sign...exactly the right thing to do. Anyway, don't be down on yourself for the climbing turn back, it was your first attempt. :clap:
You did make a good steep ascent with a few dodgy bits along the way (I know that feeling when you think you have a hold and suddenly it moves as you put weight on it :shock: ) Great report anyway with some cracking photos along the way :D

Regarding climbing I agree...so far I did not look at impossible walls and thought I had to climb up it...scrambling as you said is far more enjoyable!! :D :D

147cjl wrote:Nice one ML, the direct approach wins again :) good stuff and the skiing pic's the best one :)


Thank you :D :D

hills wrote:Goodness, that looks hairy, not for me but well done to you. :D


It was not that bad...you should give it a go!
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby Mountainlove » Thu Jul 19, 2012 8:28 am

BobMcBob wrote:Hehe I love your reports, you're a bit crazy :D Can't beat a good scramble, I'm off up to Glen Coe next week hopefully so I'll have to have a look at Creise, your route looks fun.

If you dont mind the scramble Creise is great fun from that way up!! I can only recommend it! Regarding the reports thank you :) arent we all a bit crazy to drive miles to climb hills in any kind of weather?? :wink: :lol:

pollyh33 wrote:Well done ML on giving the scrambling a damn good go and for submitting another fabbie report :clap: :clap:
I descended Creise the way you went up and it was more hairy canary than I would have wanted :shock: :shock: Still it made for a more interesting day out :lol:
P XX


I was glad I did not had to descend that way :D - met 2 men on my way who did not managed to find a half decent way down and had to return the whole way - so good on you :clap: :clap:

Scotjamie wrote:Did the less exciting walk through the ski paraphenalia last year, returning back over MaB and now wish I had tackled the Sron - Nice one ML, dangling, scrambling, skiing and walking...no hang gliding? :)


Thank you...hang gliding...that would be ideal... :D :D although I was told that the hang gliding gears weights a ton...think I prefer my usual day pack :D
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby Avocetboy » Thu Jul 19, 2012 8:41 am

hills wrote:Goodness, that looks hairy. :D


It's okay. I think it's ML's head hair, not her armpits :wink:
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby KeithS » Fri Jul 20, 2012 11:42 am

Another great report ML, you always seem to have such fun when you go in the hills.

I'm up in Glen Etive in September and am hoping to do some tidying up in that area. I'm not so sure I will be following your route though. In my, very limited, climbing experience I am very good at always keeping three points of contact as I had been shown. Unfortunately my three points usually ended up being my nose, left buttock and right elbow or some other unusual combination. :o
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby Stuart Angus » Fri Jul 20, 2012 12:57 pm

:lol: I did exactly the same thing at the ski sign :lol: , great report 8)
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby BoyVertiginous » Fri Jul 20, 2012 1:37 pm

Avocetboy wrote:
hills wrote:Goodness, that looks hairy. :D

It's okay. I think it's ML's head hair, not her armpits :wink:

:lol:
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Re: Vertical limit and the effortless goddess (?)

Postby Mountainlove » Fri Jul 20, 2012 3:36 pm

@ Avocetboy and BoyVertiginous

Had to laugh about the hairy comment... :lol: :lol: :lol: I might rough it for a few days, but some maintenance is a must, which includes armpits :lol: :lol:

Stuart Angus wrote::lol: I did exactly the same thing at the ski sign :lol: , great report 8)

haha I was wondering if others would do the same...the 'Danger' sign was also great (unfortunately the planned picture I took, did not turned out well!

KeithS wrote:Another great report ML, you always seem to have such fun when you go in the hills.

I'm up in Glen Etive in September and am hoping to do some tidying up in that area. I'm not so sure I will be following your route though. In my, very limited, climbing experience I am very good at always keeping three points of contact as I had been shown. Unfortunately my three points usually ended up being my nose, left buttock and right elbow or some other unusual combination. :o


Love your 3 points of contact :lol: :lol: If you do them please share pictures :lol: :lol:
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