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Having watched a selection of rock climbing movies throughout the past months, I was in awe. People like one of the best free climbing women in the world fascinated me and having watched some clips on youtube I decided that I had to do the same, after all in my mind I was already the female version of cliffhanger.
Motivating one of my friends, who had all the equipment, to take me to rock face close to my home, was also pretty easy and soon after I stood in front of a tall wall. In my mind I already had images of me gliding effortlessly up the rock face…(dreams are a great thing)
Strapped in my harness I set off and within seconds I realized one thing...that piece of rock did not behave the way, I wanted it to behave and it was difficult
Listening to my friend shouting instructions from below, I inched myself forward. Effortless goddess was not really what popped into mind at the time…terrified window sucker was more matching, while I clung to the wall by dear life, cheek pressed against the cold rock and arms and legs spread out like a starfish..
Inching myself higher, I got to a bit which in my mind resembled a polished piece of rock. By that time I felt as stiff as a dead body and with aching arms and hands I decided to give up...after all the harness would hold me!
Shouting down to my friend that I would let go, was answered with a Noooo!!! WTF
No???
Looking down (with my arms feeling as if they just done 200 press ups) I said ‘Why not?’..The reply was: ‘You climbed to the side, you will swing back’
Argh! looking at the rope and to my left, I realized that a swing along a rock face (inexperienced), would result in some rather nasty collision with hard rock. Feeling close to tears at that point I inched myself back until I was in a position to let go..safely held by my harness and my friend at the button.
Defeated I stood back at the ground and decided to climb something which resembled the scrambling routes (just steeper) I would like to go up on Munros but would have never dared.
The next bit was a 'crack' which run up the whole cliff face. Task was to use the crack to climb up -much easier looking anyway. With new motivation I climbed up when I suddenly heard my friends shouting: ‘ Watch the spiders in the crack, at this time of the year there will be hundreds’ Needless to say my mind answered that comment with images of huge black spiders, crawling over my hand...shaking off the goose pimps I climbed (without any encounter of huge black spiders) to the top! Yeah!
- The image I had in my mind (might need a wee bit more practise)
- Climbing in the 'crack'
2 days later I stood with new found confidence in front of Creise at the bottom of Glen Etive. Nearly a year ago I climbed Creise as a single Munro, but since then, I was annoyed that I missed out on Meall a'Bhuiridh
Obviously there was no question about the fact, that I would take the straight up route, but I wanted a more difficult route.
- Creise and the way up
The first 2/3 of Creise are easy, steep, but without any difficulties. Close to the top, you will find some serious scrambling options. There are even some real climbing options, but I guess I will leave that for some point in the future. Instead I was looking steep, yt doable. My wish was soon answered when I saw the gully. Steep from the distance,I decided that it was the climb I would not have dared before and over loose scree I walked towards it.
- On the way up
- Steep but nothing too hard
- Towards Glen Etive
When I reached the bottom of it I realized one thing...that gully was vertical – scary yet perfect!
I might not be a perfect rock climber, but scrambling is something I love . The gully proved a lot harder than I imagined. Hand holds were plenty, they were far apart. Reaching up, I held onto a rock and pulled myself up....only to realize that the next rocks in which I had planned to place my feet were higher than imagined. Looking around there was no other option but to try it again with a jump. Doing that I managed to get to the gully and moved forward in a steady pace. Close to the top of the gully I saw a triangular rock sticking out of the ground and with a quick jump I held onto it and pulled myself up. In the same second the rock started to move in my hand and I realized, I had to act fast. Using my legs I pushed up, pressed against the rock to stop it from falling and managed to grab the rock face to my right, which was solid. Note to self - gullies have lots of loose rocks! The last bit was easy with solid rocks and soon I stood above the gully. Looking down looks always more scary but this gully was steep! Had to admit it myself!
- The gully from the top
- The route I came up
From there the last few meters were easy scrambling over big rocks towards Scon na Creise. The top which isnt the top of the Munro is a great place to rest and to take in the great views down Glen Etive (some of my favorite)
- Glen Etive
The walk afterwards is easy. You will reach another blind summit, before you see the real top of Creise. Rather boring in comparison to the climb up the site of it.
- Well earned pint :-)
- just had to be done
From there you will have to take an easy scramble down and up Meall a'Bhuiridh.
For the walk back I decided to head down the grassy slopes of Creag Dhubh. Many choose the route down to the car park at the ski lift center, but I would suggest the route I took.It saved the long walk back to the car and was pleasant without any encounters of other hikers.
- The walk back
One of my heros...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N70DLM8Az_8