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In praise of wilderness and brave women

In praise of wilderness and brave women


Postby dogplodder » Sun Sep 23, 2012 11:51 pm

Route description: Beinn Airigh Charr, from Poolewe

Corbetts included on this walk: Beinn Airigh Charr

Date walked: 20/09/2012

Distance: 22 km

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This gem of a hill was a bonus for me. :D On holiday in Gairloch to celebrate younger daughter's birthday along with her hubby and 3 month old baby we were planning baby-friendly outings. Added to that my Pete has done something to his knee causing pain and broken nights so I wasn't expecting anything more strenuous than walks on the beach with the dogs. But he suggested we do a hill one of the days and after that I didn't need too much persuading. :wink:

The Corbett Beinn Airigh Charr got my attention. The approach on vehicle tracks and stalker's paths meant Pete could join me for as long as he wanted. If we made it to the top the views would be magnificent and compensate for being clouded out on Slioch a few weeks earlier.

We started at the car park beside the bridge over the River Ewe (shortest river in Britain) and walked past the school just as the children were going in for the daily grind (well it was when I was at school but think things are more fun nowadays). In a week of grey skies, heavy showers and hail stones this was by far the best weather day with blue skies and sun. :D

On the private road into Inveran Lodge there was a sign asking for dogs to be kept on lead.

Dogs by River Ewe, Tess looking longingly at the river and Jack saying "Please let me off the lead"
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At the entrance to the Lodge you take the left hand fork which passes behind the lodge and past a building which looks to be in danger of falling down and has a sign saying so. There are two stile crossings on this road but it's possible to open and close the gates if using a bike or accompanied by dogs who're not keen on stiles. There's a bridge over the River Inveran and then Loch an Doire Ghairbh comes into view.

Loch an Doire Ghairbh and Creag Mhor Thollaidh
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Once past the loch and as the track curves left a small cairn on the right marks the start of a rough path over the moor to rejoin the track 1 km to the south. WH warns that the last section of this path is boggy but after recent rain we found the whole path water-logged to the extent that Pete thought it would have been better to have walked the extra distance by road and he definitely wasn't going to return that way. :?

Once back on the vehicle track we made better time and had the added encouragement of views opening up along Loch Maree.

Loch Maree and the Torridons
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At the point the last pic was taken two carefully placed rocks on the left indicate the position of a shieling a few metres off the track. The Gaelic for shieling is airigh so it's appropriate that a shieling points the way to this hill. There's another sense in which it was fitting to pass a sheepfold on the way up but more of that later.

Jack waiting while I faffed with camera. Remains of shieling can be seen beyond the grass.
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The sheepfold is the start of an established stalker's path heading north east to follow the course of the Allt Aconair into Coire nan Dearcag. Why the excellent path starts at the shieling and not at the vehicle track may have a logical explanation. Maybe it's to discourage bikers from taking bikes further than the track because of erosion. There was an earlier sign to the effect that bikes should only be used on roads.

Bikes may be discouraged but deposits of dung suggest horses were recently along this way. It made me think of my thrifty granny out with her shovel to pick up after the milkman's horse as his deposits were good for the garden. The horse that had been along this path had been on the All Bran and would have made my granny happy. :D Another feature of this path was a trail of leg bones - presumably deer legs cut off by stalkers to make for easier transporting on back of All Bran pony. It was one thing discouraging black lab Tess (who has some strange acquired tastes) from taking too close an interest in fresh poo but persuading yellow lab Jack to ignore leg bones was a challenge too far. So for that part of the walk they were back on the lead again.

The excellent level path (but don't tell bikers) changes into a more typical mountain path after the stepping stones at the gorge.

Gorge stepping stones and path continuing at other side
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Path climbs steadily following Allt Aconair into Coire nan Dearcag
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I had it in my head I had to watch out for a cairn before the final steep section at which point we were to cross over the Allt Aconair and find another stalker's path which would continue up on the left side of the burn. In this I was ahead of myself and when the path steepened and swung to the right I thought I must have missed the cairn. So I turned and headed back down to find a suitable crossing place. Seeing me go off piste and the steepening gradient Pete decided he'd had enough. There followed a shouted conversation over the rushing sound of the waterfall near which I'd crossed. He said he was going back and I said I'd go on a bit and see what I could see. Nice and vague. :roll: At that point I didn't know how much further I'd go but I was keen to see the acclaimed view of Loch Fionn and since that's first seen from the col between Spidean nan Clach and Beinn Airigh Charr it was likely I'd end up going the whole way. 8)

The way ahead from left side of burn
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Looking back to Poolewe
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After a while and not finding the other stalker's path I recrossed the burn to the original path and followed it up a gully which came out on the rocky side of Meall Chnaimhean.

Beinn Eighe and Liathach from side of Meall Chnaimhean
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Across the grassy col I could see Airigh Charr and concluded I was now too close not to get myself up there. :wink: I hoped that Pete would go for a coffee in Poolewe and not start to worry something had happened to me. Since my phone had no network coverage in the area I hadn't brought it with me so there was no way I could communicate with him - or anyone else for that matter. Now know this was daft since emergency calls should go through whatever provider you're with. :roll: I didn't meet another soul all day which in some ways was good but in other ways felt a bit eerie. This would not be a good place to break an ankle and this was on my mind whenever the terrain was steep or lumpy. From the col I could hear stags roaring but the only living things I saw apart from my own two mutts were two ravens near the summit.

Watering hole for the dogs in the col below Airigh Charr
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Looking back to Meall Chnaimhean, Loch Maree and Skye beyond
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From the col there's a final steep push up to the summit of Airigh Charr. It's easy enough to choose a line avoiding the scree and crags and on the grass slope immediately to the left of the scree feet have worn a stairway up. The reward on reaching the ridge is a sudden stunning view of Slioch which I climbed with Kath a few weeks ago. :D

Slioch from just below summit
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From here it was a short walk to the cairn and the views were fabulous. :thumbup:

Fisherfield wilderness from summit
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Zoomed to east end of Fionn Loch
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Jack's the only dog I know who seems to enjoy a good view!
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I was glad to have the dogs with me. I don't tend to walk solo in the hills and on this occasion I felt a mixture of elation at the views and gratitude I could be there. But there was also something I couldn't define about being there, a sense of something which despite the stunning beauty made me only stay the 5 minutes it took me to take some photos. I didn't even stop for a bite to eat which is not like me at all. It was a long way back to the car and I didn't want Pete to be anxious so needed to get moving from this awesome place - and awesome it was in the truest sense of that word.

View north towards Gruinard Bay
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View south east towards Slioch
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Martha's Tower is a rock face on the north east side of Airigh Charr. It was so named in memory of a shepherdess Martha who fell 1000 feet to her death while looking after her flock. With lush pasture so high I could understand why sheep would be up there and I thought about the life it must have been tending the flock in such a remote place. She must have been hardy to be up there in all weather and sure-footed on this terrain. So what made her fall? Was it one of her sheep stuck on a ledge she tried to rescue? I remembered the powerful words "The good shepherd lays down his life for the sheep". How poignant to be in such a beautiful, awesome place where a brave woman lost her life looking after her sheep the same week two brave policewomen tragically lost their lives responding to a supposed call for help from the public.

View south towards the Torridons
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View north west to Spidean nan Clach and back to Poolewe
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Final summit shot to my faithful companions
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At the col another waterhole - and north end of Skye beyond
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Took a steep but direct line down to the path
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Ascended the gully on the right but descended well to the left
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The descent was straightforward. In Coire nan Dearcag I headed straight over the burn to the stalker's path and stayed on it all the way down, refilling my bottle from the burn high up where it tasted like pure spring water. Once on the vehicle track I varied walking with jogging and for the sake of speed took the boggy path back over the moor sloshing through it with a cavalier disregard for wet feet. By this stage I just wanted to get back to stop Pete calling out Mountain Rescue! :shock:

Beinn Airigh Charr from track just beyond the bridge over the River Inveran
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When I reached the gate out of the estate it was lovely to see the car tucked on to the grass verge at the side of the road. Pete had driven up to meet me - saving about 20 minutes of walking. :clap:

Beinn Airigh Charr zoomed from the A832 just south of Poolewe
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This Corbett gives the most stunning views I have seen from any hill and I'm glad to have climbed it and to know about Martha the shepherdess.

All of us will die but not many of us will have part of a mountain named in our memory.
Last edited by dogplodder on Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:09 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby pollyh33 » Mon Sep 24, 2012 2:12 am

A wonderful report Kathleen, made all the more touching by the inclusion of Martha's sorry tale.


You have to wonder about the hardships that girl had to endure throughout her life. Then again she would probably wonder more about us, she had to endure them to earn a living- we do it for fun :shock: :shock:


So glad that your weather was so good, means that we get to see your photography at its best- what a treat :clap: :clap:
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby soulminer » Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:08 am

That be collie country, or it will be when I get them up there !! They can pay there respects to Martha. A truly stunning area with dramatic views all around.
Cheers.
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby Scotjamie » Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:01 am

Stunning report - great story and pics. Not sure why, but it brought to mind last night's Countryfile article on the courage of the founders of the Ladies Scottish Climbing Club.
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby dogplodder » Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:54 am

pollyh33 wrote:
You have to wonder about the hardships that girl had to endure throughout her life. Then again she would probably wonder more about us, she had to endure them to earn a living- we do it for fun :shock: :shock:



Good point. But at least we can check MWIS before heading out - she had to be out there whatever the weather. :shock:
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby madasa mongoose » Mon Sep 24, 2012 2:20 pm

What a great report and stunning photos. Love the final summit shot with your faithful hounds :D Tis a hill I've not yet climbed but definitely one to savour on a clear day.

dogplodder wrote:Jack's the only dog I know who seems to enjoy a good view!


My dog Corrie seems to do that too! Though suspect she's thinking what can I smell that's edible or roll worthy :lol:
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby dogplodder » Mon Sep 24, 2012 2:52 pm

Now for some shots of the area I didn't have time to add last night. :D

Baosbheinn and Beinn Alligin from cottage window
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Rainbow over Gairloch
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Gairloch beach
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Retrieving tandem style
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Clouds and surf
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Mellon Udrigle
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Zoomed north to Coigach
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Sheep with unusual face markings
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Greylag geese and over the sea to Skye
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Slioch from shore of Loch Maree
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Climbed shortly after birth of grandson Archie - so dedicated this stunning hill to him!
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And here's the wee chap - love the contrast in size of his hands compared to Pete's! :D
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby dogplodder » Mon Sep 24, 2012 4:52 pm

soulminer wrote:That be collie country, or it will be when I get them up there !! They can pay there respects to Martha. A truly stunning area with dramatic views all around.
Cheers.


Glen and Arran would be in their collie element searching for Martha's lost sheep. :D
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby joekell » Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:55 pm

dogplodder wrote:
soulminer wrote:That be collie country, or it will be when I get them up there !! They can pay there respects to Martha. A truly stunning area with dramatic views all around.
Cheers.


Glen and Arran would be in their collie element searching for Martha's lost sheep. :D

great pics and great report on a beautiful day also a chilling reminder of the dangers we face in the wilds of scotland loch or hill but we are so lucky to have it on our door step.
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby The Rodmiester » Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:17 am

Great report, awesome photographs, but still did not do the area justice, just a wonderful place, brought back memories of the time I wild camped at the causeway, great stuff, must go back there SOON.
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby dogplodder » Tue Sep 25, 2012 11:00 am

Scotjamie wrote:Stunning report - great story and pics. Not sure why, but it brought to mind last night's Countryfile article on the courage of the founders of the Ladies Scottish Climbing Club.


The title maybe? :D
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby dogplodder » Tue Sep 25, 2012 11:03 am

madasa mongoose wrote:
dogplodder wrote:Jack's the only dog I know who seems to enjoy a good view!


My dog Corrie seems to do that too! Though suspect she's thinking what can I smell that's edible or roll worthy :lol:


More a case of smelling the view. :wink:
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby dogplodder » Tue Sep 25, 2012 12:34 pm

joekell wrote:[great pics and great report on a beautiful day also a chilling reminder of the dangers we face in the wilds of scotland loch or hill but we are so lucky to have it on our door step.


Always need to respect the hills and be aware of the dangers. But a friend of mine recently climbed 3 hills without mishap then tore the ligaments in his knee crossing the road in Glasgow. :shock:
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby pollyh33 » Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:47 pm

Oh your wee grandson is gorgeous Kathleen- thanks for sneaking a pic of him in!!! :D
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Re: In praise of wilderness and brave women

Postby KeithS » Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:07 am

I really loved this report and pictures.

This area is very close to my heart and I like to think I know it well. I didn't though know about Martha and her demise, thanks for sharing that, I have learned something.

This mountain is also very high on my 'must do' list. I nearly did it a few weeks ago but ended up going to Inverpolly for the day.

Beinn Airigh Charr is one of the (many) mountains I can see from my garden and I was actually in the garden on the day of your walk so I might have seen you in the distance.

Did you get to the cafe in Poolewe? Michael makes all the cakes and they are brilliant (all low fat ingredients of course :wink: )

Well done on a great report, although I am torn about telling everyone how great the area is. I do think it is big enough to accommodate plenty of people and I do tell people about it.
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