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9.1 miles 5h 55m ascent 642m
Loch Trool-Gairland Glen-Rig of the Jarkness-Craiglee-GlenheadBest done during a hose-pipe ban. I started with a stroll up to Bruce’s Stone overlooking the loch. From there I could see the white water of the Gairland Burn which worried me since my route would entail its crossing but the weather looked great with sunshine and some wisps of morning mist, and autumn’s colours filled the glen.
Gairland burn in the distance
My first section would take me up the side of Buchan hill to the Gairland Burn and when I set off it was with the enthusiasm of the seven dwarves singing on their way to work (hi ho, hi ho, etc). Once I left the road however, the mud required all my attention, silencing my inner voice. This section hadn’t been this muddy the last time I was here, and the higher sections even then had been a quagmire. What lay ahead?
Anyway, I picked my way along the muddy track congratulating myself on the decision to wear gaiters when one muddy section proved surprisingly deep, my leg sinking to well above boot top. Beware here, there is a temptation to step to the side of the boggy path, but the whole section is terraced, though hidden below undergrowth, so it is easy to take a tumble. Perhaps I should have unstrapped the trekking pole, but that would have impeded my sudden arm waving when trying to maintain balance.
The plan was to cross the Gairland Burn at the section marked “ford” on the OS map, but I can only presume the ford has been washed away. The burn was not in spate, however, but neither was it in drought. There is a section where the burn splits forming a small island but the water either side was rather intimidating so I chose a spot immediately downstream of the island where there is a large boulder midstream.
Gairland Burn crossing
The rocks were wet and slippery and crossing did require the use of some submerged rocks, but at least that washed the mud off my boots. I had hoped for best but planned for the worst, putting all my possessions into waterproof bags before the crossing, but made it across in one piece. Amongst the things I packed away was my watch, which was to have an effect later in the walk.
Once across the burn there was a flat area of boggy tussock grass which looked as though it should be easy walking but wasn’t, and then the climb up to the Rig of the Jarkness, which in places required the use of hands. I hesitate to call it scrambling when it is on vegetation.
Once up on the Rig the views were fantastic. I slowed to a snail’s pace looking around at the Dungeon Hills, Merrick and Curleywee. The terrain here is granite blocks embedded in boggy grass with numerous scattered erratics. Looking southwards, in the direction of the sun, the ground sparkled with reflected sunlight, as if someone had sprinkled glitter over the entire hill. I found myself just stopping to take in the view and listening to the silence. In fact it wasn’t silent. Just at the limits of hearing I could hear a waterfall. Wonderful.
Merrick from the Rig of the Jarkness
I had read that ten lochs can be seen on this walk so I was keeping a count. The most I could see at any one time was six, but throughout the walk, ten it was (Lochs Trool, Dee, Clatteringshaws, Long Loch of Glenhead, Round Loch of Glenhead, Dow, Narroch, Valley, Neldricken and Enoch).
Wandering along the Rig of the Jarkness I would sometimes come upon a track but none that persisted. The ridge undulated and required some care in picking a route around water and over rocky knolls. The Clints of the Buss are a shoulder of Craiglee and mark a change from the relatively flat Jarkness to a rocky climb with a significant worsening in the bogginess. This is particularly bad around the Dow Loch and the small lochans nearby. Some of this mud is deeply churned and had deep round prints reminiscent of the mud near farm gates and much to my surprise I spotted four cows grazing at about 500m.
Dow Loch
Once at the Dow Loch I was beginning to feel a little weak and decided to stop early for lunch. The original lunch spot was to be Craiglee’s summit, still over a kilometre away. As I was getting the sandwich out however, the rain started so I took out my jacket instead and carried on in the hope that the rain would soon stop.
Craiglee and the Glenhead Lochs
The final half mile to the summit involved crossing several rocky ridges. These were a little like false summits except having reached the top of one of these ridges I had to climb down before climbing the next, and all this on an empty tank.
At the summit I dug out my watch and realised I had been walking for 3h 45m without a break other than my pauses on the rig. No wonder I felt washed out. Lunch certainly revived me. Craiglee’s trig point sits on a pile of boulders and has excellent views. I could even see the Silver Flowe glittering, living up to its name.
Coffee on Craiglee
From the summit I intended to head directly down to where the SUW crosses Dargall Lane near the Giant’s Axehead. I took a bearing and found that I could use the the burn coming off Curleywee as my target.
Unfortunately I could not find a safe way off Craiglee in that direction and had to backtrack a good 250m to avoid the bluffs. The rest of the descent was mostly boggy tussock and hidden watercourses. I came across several deep holes with water cascading down them and even more areas where I could hear them but not see them. I presume one of these might be the Buck’s hole marked on the map. I would worry about this route in poor visibility. It was certainly a relief to reach the firm track of the SUW.
Giant’s Axe Head and Loch Dee
Despite weary legs I detoured to the Seven Stanes’ Axehead and used it as an excuse for a quick break. from there I just followed the SUW back to Glenhead (downhill) then the road back to the car (uphill).
The Rig of the Jarkness is a beautiful place, a secluded wilderness with wonderful views. The routes to it are not difficult but do exact a price in effort, but that probably contributed to the effect of the rig.
PS I’m annoyed that I can’t find a convincing meaning for the Rig of the Jarkness. It is suggested to mean the ridge of the turbulent waterfall, but the absence of a turbulent waterfall is a little odd if that were true. The best I have come across is [rig (angl.), "ridge, back"+dearg (gael.), (a specific shade of)"red"+ness, (norse/danish) "nose,promontory"].
