In awe above Loch Awe

[Paula Hubens]

Beinn Cruachan, Stob Diamh.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

As it had been a long day yesterday, today started with a lie in until 7.30am. I can hear you tutting at such blatant idleness.
A few hours later I was in the car driving along the A85 through Glen Lochy, keeping an eye out for my favourite munro, Ben Lui. There it was, hiding its magnificent corrie and ridges from view. Last year this hill had given my confidence as a beginning bagger an enormous boost, so I have fond memories of it. And today I was hoping to have an equally memorable day out on Ben Cruachan and Stob Diamh. Radio on, windows down, I was already in the zone. Clouds high in the sky, this was looking promising.

Loch Awe was a mirror, it was fantastic driving along. Attention please! Keep eyes peeled for the roadside parking spaces at the Falls of Cruachan station! I spotted the teeny-weeny sign for the station too late, so had to make a U-turn at the power station’s visitor centre.
Car parked, boots on, bag on, sticks on, through the railway underpass and uphill on the right hand side of the burn. The path winds its way up steeply through a jungle of roots and small trees.

Ascent path along Allt Cruachan

The vegetation was still wet from the overnight rain and soon got me drenched, but it was too muggy to put on waterproofs. There were lots of beasties flying around, which got the scare of their life. Not only was I thrashing through their habitat, I also was encouraging more oxygen to enter my lungs by engaging my mouth in breathing (in other words panting ). I must say, protein from bugs is a bit of an acquired taste.

A stile marks the end of the steep ascent through the wood. It was good to have some air flow again. The path follows the Allt Cruachan to a bridge and meets the hydro road from Lochawe, which goes left up towards the dam.

Cruachan dam

Steps up from dam

Straight to the dam and then up the grassy steps, which were not slippery today. Next there is a ladder which gets you onto the dam. I then followed the track to the far end of the reservoir past a tunnel entrance with a hut next to it.

Hut

Dark clouds were now gathering over the reservoir and by the time I had started on the ascent it was raining. Luckily not for long.

Cruachan reservoir

Halfway up the corrie there is a nice little waterfall. The tiny stream a sign that the last few weeks must have been very dry here.

Waterfall in Coire Dearg

Past the waterfall, there is a short steep section on a scree-ey path and then it is not far to the bealach with its lovely lochan.

Bealach an Lochain

There was a fair bit of cloud around but it was thin and I was hopeful that the sun would burn it off. Although from the bealach I couldn’t see much of what was lying ahead, I was looking forward to the ascent, as boulders had been promised! The path is of a reddish colour and very obvious. It guides you along some impressive crags below. Some sections are steep, others are less steep, but there is no difficulty. The views towards Loch Awe were now opening up. Very nice!

Looking down ascent path, Meall Cuanail opposite

Looking up ascent path

View towards Loch Awe

Higher up the ridge becomes littered with big boulders. For those keen to stick to the path a bit of path finding is required (just look for red scree amongst the boulders). For others, pick your own route and enjoy!

Nearly there just a few more boulders to tackle

Near the top clouds came rolling in from the north and I dashed uphill to quickly take some pictures before the cloud would settle.

View west

Stob Dearg from just below summit

Looking ahead along the ridge towards Stob Diamh

Cruachan reservoir and Loch Awe

Ben Cruachan summit

But it was just wispy cloud and as I was having lunch at the cairn, the views improved considerably. WOW! I was on top of the world! I could see as far as Mull, and the ridge towards Drochaid Ghlas and Stob Diamh was now laid out in front of me, awesome! And the best bit, I was going to walk on it!

With a mix of ‘respect for the hill’ (fear ) and excitement I started on the descent. There are some big steps downwards but they are neither difficult nor scary. The slabs were now coming into view. From a distance they look fine. Close up they are suddenly huge and blocking the view from where the path might go.

Frontal view of slabs

At the right side of the slabs there is an easy way up: steps. Once on the slabs, the path becomes visible again.
Further on, the path looked steep and scrambly, but in the end it turned out to be OK.

Path downwards

Once past this, the rest of the ridge is straightforward and awe-inspiring! The sheer drops on the left, the craggy ridge of Drochaid Ghlas, the sharp peak of Ben Cruachan, the views. Did I mention the views?

Ridge ahead to Drochaid Ghlas

Looking back to Ben Cruachan

Cruachan reservoir

Near Drochaid Ghlas I (unintentionally) upset a ptarmigan and chick. The poor chick was squeaking for its life and madly running round in circles, instead of fleeing. The ptarmigan puffed itself up and bravely fended me off with something that looked like a dance, but which in the ptarmigan world obviously meant ‘Do not mess with me or I’ll have you for lunch’. This distraction tactic worked: I was intrigued by the dance and in the mean time the chick had the opportunity to get away. The ptarmigan then cunningly ran off in the opposite direction to divert me from the chick. Amazing!
Still managed to aim a shot at the ptarmigan though!

Brave ptarmigan

And a few other shots…

Drochaid Ghlas ahead

Looking back along the ridge towards Ben Cruachan

[Paula Hubens]

Ben Cruachan and Stob Dearg

Approaching Drochaid Ghlas I was pondering whether or not to bag this top as well. But before my mind was made up, I was already on it! Admiring the views, I had followed the ridge and only noticed that I had gone too far when it narrowed. The main ridge towards Stob Diamh, lies a fair bit lower down, so it is easily overlooked if you are not paying attention like me , or in poor visibility. However, Drochaid Ghlas is a very fine top and an ideal spot for more pictures!

Loch Etive

View towards Glen Etive, with Ben Starav centre right and Ben Nevis in the far distance

Loch Awe

Ridge towards Stob Diamh

Dropping down steeply, but without difficulties, to the bealach and then up slightly gentler slopes to Stob Diamh.

The mighty north east corrie of Drochaid Ghlas

On the summit I met the only other walker of the day. He seemed to be in a world of his own as he looked rather surprised when I said hello. He did say hello back though and then quickly continued down the ridge towards Drochaid Ghlas.
The views from Stob Diamh were smashing. It was great to look back on the fantastic ridge. The sharp peak of Ben Cruachan stuck out proudly and from a distance it even looked more impressive. Had I really come down that? Wow, wow, wow!

Summit Stob Diamh

Looking back at a day's walk

Sron an Isean, Beinn a' Chochuill and Beinn Eunaich

But the ridge walking had not finished yet, there was still Stob Garbh.
And what a lovely ridge it was. Easy angled, a good path, great views.

Ridge towards Stob Garbh

From Lairig Torran I followed the stream back to the reservoir.

Gully from Lairig Torran

And then it was back on the hydro road, past the very specific speed limit sign,

Why 24 and not 23 or 21?

down the jungle along the Allt Cruachan,

View from the jungle to Loch Awe

through the railway underpass, with a timely warning,

Mind yer head

back to the car. What a day!

[weescotsman]

Nice report. Looks totally different to when I did this in April in deep snow up top. Couldn't even get over the summit to the ridge, we had to drop down and find a bypass path. Which was narrow, still snowy and not for the faint hearted.... 3 of our gang decided it wasn't for them and they went back down, which I reckoned would be just as tricky really..... took me 9 hours for the round trip and this is where I first met the wee Mountain Goat and Marley the dog. And not forgetting Dave the Dad......

Snowy ridge was a bit tricky and the slabs were a bit iced up as well so had to be careful.....

Cruachan Ridge

[coreen connell]

Well done, you were lucky with the weather. Thanks for your report and lovely pictures too!

[rockhopper]

Some of us are happy if we can string together a few days in the hills.....but I make this 11 in a row so far (more to come ?) and doff my hat to you - well done ! Glad you got some views as I didn't see a thing on my trip to these hills - cheers

[davedanson28]

As Rock hopper said, well done...11 days on the trot! Lucky you!
This is still my favourite hill, me and my boy climbed it back in April and there was about 2 foot of snow on the ridge, amazing place, great report and keep them coming!

[gammy leg walker]

Another cracking TR Paula,as folks have said 11 days on the trot,brilliant,you will be glad of the rest when you get home.

[PeteR]

There are times when 25 photos just aren't enough And this is one of those routes Great report of two fine hills I keep promising to go back, but haven't managed it just yet.

[Fudgie]

Excellent stuff Paula. A hard fought pair of hills but they are worth it

[Bod]

Very nice paula, one of my favourite mountains is Cruachan, and I will being heading up again one of these days? Maybe a nice winter summit?

[weescotsman]

I'd like to do this again but not in winter. That bypass path from the summit had me worried and it was 1 slow step at a time to get down it.....

[mountain thyme]

nice wee report

[ScottishLeaf]

Like you I had a cracking day on these two, only it was very busy when I was there.
Great days on Cruachan to be had by all me thinks.

[Morecambe Monkey]

Nice report Paula,Cruachan was my first Munro & i remember that stiflingly hot climb to the dam being a killer. As you say,the views are awesome,i was taken aback by them to be honest & was in an instant hooked. Thanks for sharing & bringing back great memories of this mountain,it's on the list for a revisit!

[pigeon]

Great report Paula,certainly made the most of your visit to the hills.Had probably our best day on these hills a couple of years back,7 numpties and 2 big mountains covered in snow made for an interesting day Never seen that wee frog though