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From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and friend

From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and friend


Postby PeteR » Sat Oct 20, 2012 9:38 pm

Route description: Beinn Liath Mhor, Achnashellach

Munros included on this walk: Beinn Liath Mhòr, Sgòrr Ruadh

Date walked: 13/10/2012

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A choice of walk inspired by reading recent walk reports from BlackPanther and Jonny Corbett, so a big :thumbup: to them for the inspiration :D

On the day it was a real walk of two halves; cloud down and no views for Beinn Liath Mhor and then cloud high and great views for Sgorr Ruadh. Despite the clag and the fact I missed out on the Beinn Liath Mhor views this has to rank as one of the best walks I’ve done :D Hopefully one to return to, but it’s easy to say that about so many of the hills in the Scottish Highlands :lol: It certainly is an area for further exploration though, that’s for sure.

Parking up and I had time to get myself some breakfast ready before heading off up the track to Achnaschellach Station. Over the rail track and through the gate and I was off. A nice, pleasant, warm up along landrover track before the path veers off to the left and then follows by the side of the Allt an Leth-chreig and then the River Lair as it started to gain height. A good hill path picking its way through rock slabs, with water babbling all around me :D
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Start of the walk

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Low cloud in Coire Lair

On the way up I yo-yo’d with a group of three people. They seemed inflicted with the same disease as I have – “takeaphotoateveryopportunityitis” :lol: :lol: :lol: , hence we crossed paths regularly. They had Sgorr Ruadh on their agenda for the day and we had a good little chat each time we passed each other, where they gave me pointers for my route, having done Beinn Liath Mhor already, Met them again later on as they were coming down SR and I was making my way up.

The wee Corbett Fuar Tholl dominates on the way up. I was minded as I headed up to add her to my route, and she sure looked tempting. She looks an impressive hill and as I’d discover looks even better coming down off Sgorr Ruadh :D

After a short climb the path levels off nicely as it heads onto the plateau then up into Coire Lair. I ignored the left offshoot (my return path) and soon after left the main path and headed to the right, toward Beinn Liath Mhor. This path then split a short distance ahead, where I took the left fork.

The path up onto Beinn Liath Mhor surely gives a whole new meaning to the word relentless. No longer just a brand of energy drink - offering no half measures apparently. No, this was a steep climb up the side of Beinn Liath Mhor’s south top offering no respite :lol: :( I was told it eased off after passing a tree high up. Well, yes it did. It just became less steep for a short section before eventually easing off properly for a short while before steepening yet again for the final push on to the summit proper.
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Nice steep path up onto Beinn Liath Mhor

On the climb up though I had entered the clagfest :shock:

I’d hoped the cloud would lift off Beinn Liath Mhor as I plodded my way up onto the ridge. Sadly, even though the path was exceeding steep and did its best to slow me down the cloud remained low as the gradient finally relented and I donned my tutu for the “dance of the boulder hop” to the shelter cairn on Beinn Liath Mhor south top. It was turning into a popular hill by this point. As well as me there was a group of six, with a guide, two chaps who disappeared into the clag and were never seen again and a chap with his dog. He and I walked along together for a while, but he eventually headed off at his own pace. I avoided the larger group where I could, as they had their guide and I didn’t want to be accused of gate crashing their party :lol: :lol:

Eventually then it was just me and the clagfest :D

Sadly no views as I walked along Beinn Liath Mhor’s rocky ridge. And there were no views when I arrived at the summit either. A bit if a shame, as reports and photos suggest the views to Beinn Eighe and the other Torridon giants would have been superb from this hill. The large group and their guide were at the summit when I got there, so I didn’t stop but headed on down to pick up the route on to Sgorr Ruadh.
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Beinn Liath Mhor clagfest

As I descending off Beinn Liath Mhor clagfest finally gave way to joyfest :D
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Descending off Beinn Liath Mhor, as the clag starts to lift

As I was dropping off Beinn Liath Mhor down the cloud trapped by the Coire suddenly dissolved :D Initially views were a bit patchy, but then everything became much clearer as blue sky appeared and the sun won the day :D Great views across the slabby bealach and toward Sgorr Ruadh :D Views back to Beinn Liath Mhor also opened up, although it was doing its best to retain the clag higher up (this did eventually dissolve too for a short while later on in the day before the cloud eventually returned).
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View back from the bealach between the hills

Having made pretty good time to the summit of Beinn Liath Mhor I decided to drop my pace from now on. I made my way across the slabs of the bealach and then the pleasant scrambly drop down via point 769 and to the small lochan. I wasn’t tired and I wasn’t struggling either. The guided group had caught me up and passed me by now and I was keen to let them get a bit of a gap between us. But more importantly, with views opening up and the weather seemingly improving all the time, I just wanted to make the most of the great views on offer. And when they are as good as there were here, why rush 8) 8)
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View back to the 769 point

So now I was on a relaxed mountain stravaig :D And that’s how it stayed for the rest of the day :D No rushing or tearing about, just a slow, steady pace and plenty of time to enjoy the walking and the views :D
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Sgorr Ruadh from the bealach

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Liathach

The grassy rake up onto Sgorr Ruadh was a tad boggy, but once on the ridge it was all fun, fun, fun 8) I had to don the tutu again for another “dance of the boulder hop” lower down, but eventually a path takes over and it’s a straightforward walk to the summit. It’s a great little path up the side of Sgorr Ruadh and I looked to keep as close to the cliff edge as I could. I was having fun as I made ever such slow progress to the summit. If speed is your game, then it shouldn’t take long. It took me an hour :lol: And I loved every moment of it :D The views all round were just stunning, even with the cloud obscuring the summits of Liathach and Beinn Eighe for the most part.

Beinn Alligin just looked awesome :D
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Beinn Alligin

Beinn Liath Mhor didn't look too bad now :D
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Beinn Liath Mhor

And Maol Chean-dearg didn’t look too shabby either :D
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Maol Chean-dearg

Nor Ben Damph :D
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Ben Damph

Sgorr Ruadh looked good :D
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Sgorr Ruadh

So did the view out to sea :D
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Loch Torridon and beyond

Oh, and let’s not forget Loch Carron :D
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Loch Carron

In his report on the Five Sisters Graeme D wrote about a Church not made of Hands. Standing on the side of Sgorr Ruadh soaking up one great view on top of another and I could appreciate that sentiment here too. I was totally overwhelmed by it all. Easy to have a little “moment” as I stood there in total awe of what I was part of. Made me feel very small and inconsequential I stood amongst these great rock giants.
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Back out to sea again

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Sgorr Ruadh again

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Maol Chean-dearg catching the tail end of some whispy clag

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View out toward Ben Damph

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Maol Chean-dearg

Eventually my hour was up, and I was finally on the top of Sgorr Ruadh. A couple were already there, having climbed up from the saddle with Fuar Tholl. They had a couple of fine dogs with them. Sadly my knowledge of such matters is wafer thin.........they were dogs, that’s about all I knew. If they weren’t huskies, then they were like huskies. Anyhow, I sat and chatted to the couple for a short while as I checked in with MrsR.

Then it was time to head down. Did I add on Fuar Tholl to the route? Or did I leave her for another day. Got to say she did tempt me as she was stretched out seductively there in front of me. But I wasn’t one for giving into temptation on this trip. A wise decision as it turned out, as a nice band of rain was heading in from the east and I was directly in line for a bit of a soaking. I did promise her though that, if she were to cover herself in a nice layer of snow then I’d definitely be back in the winter. That way I could give her my full attention :wink:
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Fuar Tholl

The saddle between Sgorr Ruadh and Fuar Tholl was interesting and complex, with lots of rocky knolls and plenty of small lochans.............and little in the way of a path I could see. So I was having fun picking my way across it heading for the stalkers path I needed to pick up for the route back. I’m not sure it would have been so much fun had the weather been pants and cloud down :shock: Easily a place to get lost in bad conditions!!!
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View toward Moruisg and friends

Eventually I was on the stalkers path, which makes its way easily past the Mainreachan Buttress of Fuar Tholl.
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Mainreachan Buttress of Fuar Tholl

All easy walking until an unexpected river crossing (well, only unexpected because I hadn’t done my homework properly). It wasn’t in spate, but there was sufficient volume of water to leave me in no doubt there was a chance I’d be getting wet :lol:

A brief moment of faffing about ensued, as I tried to find a suitable crossing point that would limit the wetness :roll: Eventually decided on a double crossing over a small island (later discovering this was the suggested solution where the water was high :roll:). First section was easy, as the water level was pretty shallow. The reason for that appeared to be that all the water was travelling on the other side of the island :lol: Oh well, nothing for it other than to dip my toe in :lol: My usual approach to river crossing is simply to “go for it”, rather than pussyfoot over stepping stones with the risk of slipping in. So......I went for it. With the water just shy of knee high at its highest wet feet were guaranteed :lol:
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River Lair

Once on the other side all that was left was a squelchy walk back to the car, which was achieved without further incident :roll: But I had had such a great day that to be honest I wasn’t at all concerned by wet feet.

So many photies on this walk I decided to try my hand at putting together a little video montage from the day :D Hopefully I’ll get better with practice. I thought I’d ease you in gently on the music front..........but things could get “interesting” further down the line :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby SusieThePensioner » Sat Oct 20, 2012 9:59 pm

A wonderful walk, Pete, even though you had the clag for the first part :D
Some amazing photos and just love the ones of Liathach and Ben Alligin :thumbup:
Will have a look at the video tomorrow.
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby Bod » Sat Oct 20, 2012 10:47 pm

A stunner there PeteR, almost had plans for these two during the week after our Liathach day last Monday....now wishing we had :D :D :D :D :clap:
Nevermind, will get back one day day soon :)
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby Torridon_snails » Sat Oct 20, 2012 10:54 pm

Fantastic pictures - congratulations! What a walk. We've just been working on a report of our trip up BLM from last year, but not sure we should post it now - can't compete with this!!

All the best,

Daniel and Clare
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby ChrisW » Sun Oct 21, 2012 12:58 am

An absolute cracker Pete, I'm so glad the weather cleared out for you and allowed you the opportunity for those beautiful photos. I'm sure this belter wasn't cooled by some squelchy feet :lol:
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby gammy leg walker » Sun Oct 21, 2012 10:16 am

Fantastic vid & pics,never been here yet now cannie wait,be next year now sadly.
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby dooterbang » Sun Oct 21, 2012 12:11 pm

Another wonderful report Pete. Great read and fantastic photos.

Glad you blew away the clag :wink:
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby pigeon » Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:19 pm

Great stuff again pete,like Gammy never made it to these hills this year but high on my ever expanding hit list for next year :lol:
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby BlackPanther » Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:41 pm

Always a pleasure to provide inspiration for fellow walkers :D :D
Lovely set of photos, you might have missed views from BLM ridge but still a great story to tell. We had very similar experience with Fuar Tholl last year - the cloud was just below the tops and we never managed to see the summit panos, but the walk was enjoyable enough. I have to return to redo the Corbett in better weather some day.
Here is FT in snow cover... as seen when descending from Sgorr Ruadh... Isn't she a beauty? :wink:
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby PeteR » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:55 pm

SusieThePensioner wrote:A wonderful walk, Pete, even though you had the clag for the first part :D
Some amazing photos and just love the ones of Liathach and Ben Alligin :thumbup:
Will have a look at the video tomorrow.


Thanks Susie. Got some more nice views of Liathach and Beinn Eighe from my next walk :D Once I get round to posting the report that is :lol:
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby PeteR » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:57 pm

Bod wrote:A stunner there PeteR, almost had plans for these two during the week after our Liathach day last Monday....now wishing we had :D :D :D :D :clap:
Nevermind, will get back one day day soon :)


Up there as a classic walk Bod :D So the good news is you still have it to look forward too. Hope you enjoy as much as I did, once you get up to do these two :D
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby PeteR » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:58 pm

Torridon_snails wrote:Fantastic pictures - congratulations! What a walk. We've just been working on a report of our trip up BLM from last year, but not sure we should post it now - can't compete with this!!

All the best,

Daniel and Clare


Thanks Torridon_snails. Definitely post your report :D It's always good to read other peoples accounts and see their photos :D
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby PeteR » Mon Oct 22, 2012 10:01 pm

ChrisW wrote:An absolute cracker Pete, I'm so glad the weather cleared out for you and allowed you the opportunity for those beautiful photos. I'm sure this belter wasn't cooled by some squelchy feet :lol:


Cheers Chris. MWIS had promised improving weather, but you can never be sure :lol: Thankfully they were spot on this time. And as for squelchy feet. That's a common occurance with me, as I tend to just march across water, rather than pick my route across. Had many a wet foot on a hill walk :lol:
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby PeteR » Mon Oct 22, 2012 10:03 pm

gammy leg walker wrote:Fantastic vid & pics,never been here yet now cannie wait,be next year now sadly.


Thanks gammy. I hope you do get up there and also hope you enjoy it too :D
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Re: From “clagfest” to “joyfest”: Beinn Liath Mhor and frien

Postby PeteR » Mon Oct 22, 2012 10:10 pm

dooterbang wrote:Another wonderful report Pete. Great read and fantastic photos.

Glad you blew away the clag :wink:


Cheers dooterbang.
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