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Grahams: Beinn Tharsuinn
Date: 27/10/2012
Distance: 10km (walking), 29km (cycling)
Ascent: 500m (walking), 380m (cycling)
Time taken: 5 hours
Weather: Cold and calm to begin, with blustery snow showers later. Light snow underfoot.
Yet again in search of a shortish day out, I finally turned my attention to Beinn Tharsuinn. I had wanted to do this hill from Alladale, and initially this looked possible as my wife wanted a lift to Alness on Saturday morning, but her plans soon changed. I decided that the Alladale approach would be a bit tight given that I was supposed to be back for a wedding in the evening, and went for the alternative – cycling up Strath Vaich from the Ullapool road. This had the advantage of being a much shorter drive, and possibly a shorter day out as well. Handily, I happen to really like Strath Vaich and Loch Vaich too, and this would be my fourth time using it as an approach to the hills.
A definite feeling of winter in the air, even if it was still autumn on the ground, and it was a relatively freezing -2 when I got out of the car. Fortunately I didn’t get too dressed up, as a few minutes on the bike soon had me warmed up.
Ben Wyvis from Black Bridge:
Am Faochgach and Carn Gorm-loch from Black Bridge:
Before long I left the tarmac and went for the short uphill grind to a spot overlooking Loch Vaich. A light frost and a dusting of snow kept the track from being as muddy as it had been on previous occasions, and I made good progress to the col at the head of Strath Vaich, reaching the weirs picking up flow for the hydro scheme in a little more than an hour.
Meall a Ghrianain from Strath Vaich:
Loch Vaich:
Bheinn a Chaisteil and Meall a Ghrianain:
South to Ben Wyvis and Little Wyvis:
West across Loch Vaich:
I enjoyed the views across to Carn Gorm-loch and Am Faochgach. These had provided a great walk to start off 2011. Beinn a Chaisteil towered above the track too, inviting a repeat ascent sometime in the winter.
Across Loch Vaich to Am Faochgach and Carn Gorm-loch:
Carn Gorm-loch:
Meall a Chuaille:
I left the bike at one of the hydro intakes and crossed a second intake to reach the north side of the Allt Crom Loch. Easy going up the ridge would have led me directly onto Carn Feur-lochan, as there were ATV tracks in the heather, but as I was still clear of the cloud, I decided to head to the north side of Lochan Sgeireach for the views down Gleann Beag and Gleann Mor. This lochan perches right on the edge of the plateau, and despite being at an elevation of almost 2000 feet, someone from the estate has taken the trouble to haul a small rowing boat up here. Must be an idyllic spot for some evening fishing in the spring (I could even be converted at this rate
).
West up Gleann Beag to Eilidh an Clach Gheala:
Gleann Beag:
Crom Loch and Beinn Tharsuinn:
East down Gleann Mor:
Lochan Sgeireach:
Boat on the lochan:
As I gained the plateau, the weather began to deteriorate and I was caught in a brief snow shower. As the weather was forecast to worsen throughout the afternoon, I decided to stop messing around and get over to the summit, so I missed out the bump of Dunan Liath. This shortcut wasn’t really worth it, as I had to cross steeper slopes of thick heather to reach the col beneath Beinn Tharsuinn.
Looking back west across Lochan Sgeireach:
Beinn Tharsuinn from Carn Feur-lochan:
Fortunately the snow shower was just that, and it looked like I might actually get views from the summit. The going was much easier on this side of the col, and before long I was stood at the summit cairn, right in the middle of a stony plateau. The weather wasn’t good enough for extensive views, but Carn Chuinneag looked good from here, despite not showing its distinctive twin summits from this direction. Meall a Ghriananain and Beinn a Chaisteil were also surprisingly shapely from this direction. It was interesting to look south across the peaty wastes of the Kildermorie forest too. I had once contemplated approaching from this direction – probably best that I didn’t!
Approaching the summit of Beinn Tharsuinn:
East to Carn Chuinneag:
Meall a Ghriananain and Beinn a Chaisteil from Beinn Tharsuinn:
Crom Loch and Gleann Beag:
It’s a funny quirk of hill lists, but summits like Beinn Tharsuinn would attract barely any attention if not listed. While there was an immense satisfaction at arriving at the centre of this bleak wasteland, Beinn Tharsuinn itself is utterly indistinguishable from the half-dozen or so humps of similar height around it. Without a map or list to highlight it, I might well have selected Dunan Liath or Leaba Bhruic as my destination instead.
The wind wasn’t that strong on the summit, but it was bitingly cold, so I quickly descended to the shores of Crom Loch. These were very uneven and hard going, but there were some nice rocks along the shore which made a good spot to stop and sit down. I passed a small wooden kiosk which had nothing in it – it looked as if it might be to store gear for a rowing boat like the one I had passed earlier.
Smallest bothy ever:
Crom Loch and Beinn Tharsuinn:
Crom Loch:
There was some nice light over the loch, then more tough, heathery tussocky ground leading back down the valley to my bike. Most of the snow and frost had now thawed, making the going dirtier but Strath Vaich more colourful than it had been in the morning.
Allt Crom Loch:
Luibachlaggan:
Back at the car, I was pleased to have got out in the snow. Most years I end up missing the early autumn snowfalls, and only get out when it is knee deep. It was also good to get to such a remote spot. Using the bike rather made light of the remoteness – it would have taken me a good 3 hours to walk out to the car without it.
