50 in the Black Mount

[Paula Hubens]

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Today would be the last walk of this holiday. Technically there was still tomorrow for a few munros, but tiredness had started creeping in. Although still having fun so far, I knew that the moment was drawing closer when I would have to drag my body up a hill, no matter how eager I was. So best to call it a day when still enjoying it.

I had been looking at the Black Mount munros in August 2011 and thought it would make sense to bag them in one go. They are nicely grouped together and the drops between them are not too big. However the challenge would be getting back to the car. The bagging was going to be the ‘easy’ bit. Would I be able to muster the motivation for a walk back to Victoria Bridge along the West Highland Way, when feeling tired after a big day out? Probably not. What now? Do the route in reverse? Maybe, could be an option.
Hm, wonder whether there is a bus I could catch? A quick search on the web and my plans for these hills all of a sudden became much more exciting: thanks to Scottish City Link I would be doing a proper traverse! Also the idea of a cross country walk from one highland hostelry to another was very appealing. (Nice to notice that walking from A to B still floats my boat very much, and with a few summits to be bagged on the way it would make the ideal day out.)

With bus times double checked the previous evening, I drove to the White Corries Ski Centre, parked and then jogged back to the A82 to wait for the 7:47am 914 Fort William – Glasgow bus. There was plenty of time, but I was a bit concerned that I would not recognise the bus stop and might have to search for it. Down South, there is usually some clue pointing to a stop, but I wasn’t quite sure what the arrangements over here would be. I suspected it wouldn’t be a shelter, a sign or a platform. And I was right. As there was nothing else, I picked a gravelly lay-by opposite the road to the ski centre that seemed big enough for a bus. Lo and behold after a long wait (because I was too early) the 914 came and stopped. And there were no grumbles from the driver that I had been waiting in the wrong place. Happy days.
Got off the bus at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel. It was too early for a visit to this hostelry, but I hoped that further on the Inveroran Hotel would be open for a nice cup of tea. So onwards on the West Highland Way. The path is in pretty good condition and progress was fast. On the way there were fine views of Stob Ghabhar and Loch Tulla. The Inveroran Hotel came into sight and I quickened the pace at the prospect of a hot drink. Alas, it was still closed.

View along the way

Abhainn Shira

The day had started off a bit grey but by now the clouds had thinned and the sun was out. At Forest Lodge I turned left onto the track along the Abhainn Shira past the Clashgour Hut, then right to follow the Allt Toaig. The path was good and luckily not as wet as described in the Munro Bible. The views were great and I wasn’t even high up. This was looking promising.

The path beside the Allt Toaig did very well in deceiving me. It is steeper than it appears to be. I found it hard work and was blaming the slow progress on my tired legs. Until I looked back and saw that the ascent actually had been considerable.
A bit further on the path stops pretending being nice and gentle. Wham! Straight up along the Allt Caolain Duibh! Half way up this steep ridge the path fortunately starts zigzagging. Then the slope evens out and it was a short walk to my first milestone Stob a’ Choire Odhair.

Celebratory plank on Stob a' Choire Odhair

The views from number 50 were great. Meall a’ Bhuiridh looked really close. I could even see the ski tow on top. It was hard to imagine that it would probably take me another 7 hours to reach its summit. And the views to the west, simply stunning!

Clach Leathad and Meall a' Bhuiridh from Stob a' Choire Odhair

View to the west

Stob Ghabhar

Rannoch Moor

After a celebratory sandwich I was off to Stob Ghabhar.
The first part of the descent is very stony. Where the slope steepens the going gets easier on bare rock and grass. The terrain stays like this for a while, until the path goes off in a SSW direction climbing towards the Couloir Buttress. That is where it becomes very steep and very stony. Hands were needed to counteract gravity.
All the while the views were fantastic: Stob a’ Choire Odhair showed a bit more character and Stob Ghabhar looked impressive.

Looking back on descent path from Stob a' Choire Odhair

Stob Ghabhar in full glory

The steep climb gets you onto the Aonach Eagach, which only shares the name of the other notched ridge, but definitely not its reputation.

Aonach Eagach

The Munro Bible mentions an exposed section across a little gap. It takes just a small step to cross it and then soon the ridge broadens and then narrows again for the final ascent up Stob Ghabhar.

Stob Ghabhar summit with Buachaille Etive Mor

It was cold and windy on the summit. Attempts to find the least windy spot were unsuccessful, so I chose the spot offering the best view to accompany a sandwich. I hadn’t quite appreciated the shape of Stob a’ Choire Odhair when climbing it. But now it was showing its best side: the lovely curving ridge connecting it to Stob Ghabhar, with the Allt Coire Lochain/ Dhearbhadh following its flanks to a backdrop of Rannoch Moor.
A few shots of the great views and then onwards.

Looking back to Stob a' Choire Odhair

The next part of the walk was simply stunning. First there was the impressive north-east corrie of Stob Ghabhar, which was still holding some snow. Then all those long well defined ridges. And finally the views down the glen of the Allt Coire a’ Chaolain, all the way to Bidean nam Bian, Stob Coire nan Lochan and Stob Coire Sgreamhach! Wow! Aonach Mor looked very inviting too.

View down the Allt Coire a' Chaolain

Aonach Mor

After a few knolls Aonach Mor was left for the descent north-east past Creag a’ Bealaich to the Bealach Fuar-chathaidh. The climb up Clach Leathad had looked steep from a distance and it still looked steep close up. There wasn’t the faintest trace of a path. Ah well, best to attack it head on then.

Steep, steep, steep! But I still enjoyed it, finding the best way up.
Once on the ridge, someone pulled the plug and I was left without energy. Was this just a temporary dip or the beginning of the dreaded dragging? It was a real struggle getting to Clach Leathad on the abundance of loose stones. On Clach Leathad it was time for a rest, food, some pictures and a good think about the next move. Maybe it would be wise to skip Creise?

Meall a' Bhuiridh from Clach Leathad

Creise from Clach Leathad

View to the west

Aonach Eagach in the far distance

Making my way down from Clach Leathad I felt much better and decided to carry on to Creise. It would be a shame not to, as it wasn’t far. I won’t deny that not having to face the steep drop down from point 1070 just yet was also a big factor in the decision making process.
I spotted the cairn that marks this descent route to Meall a’ Bhuiridh. Handy for later. The ridge to Creise hardly required any effort and I reached the summit cairn in no time. A quick snack, some pictures and back again to point 1070.

Summit Creise

Looking down Glen Etive

From point 1070 the spur looked incredibly steep. It seemed more of a sheer drop than a descent. However, the cairn points you to a route that is very much do-able. It is just the first step that is ‘deep’, after this the rock provides a staircase and the slope becomes less steep. All in all it turned out to be a fun descent.

Looking back towards point 1070, the descent route

I wasn’t sure how I would fare on the ascent up Meall a’ Bhuiridh. It certainly looked like a long and steep haul, but for that matter also a beautiful haul. Nice shape this hill has got! Fortunately my energy held out. There are a few bumps on the way, with plenty of options to go round them or over them. I tried a few ‘over’ routes and they were good fun. I really enjoyed this ridge.

Ridge up Meall a' Bhuiridh

Some dark clouds that had been entertaining the east, were now getting bored with this and started moving to the west in search of a more appreciative audience. They were approaching fast and I sped up to get to the summit before the views would disappear.

Summit Meall a' Bhuiridh with Creiase, Stob a' Ghlais Coire and Stob Dearg in the background

With a stiff breeze and most of the views now obscured by the cloud, there was little appeal to staying at the summit. I quickly ate a sandwich and then headed down in a NE direction keeping the ski tow on the right on my way to the Happy Valley.

Happy Valley

This descent was quick and enjoyable. There was no path (if there was, I obviously wasn’t on it) and it was fun finding the best way down. From Coire Pollach I picked up the path along the ski lift back to the White Corries car park, where my car was the only one left.

I sat in the car for a while before driving off. What a great traverse it had been: stunning views, lovely ridges. The weather had been good. I’d reached my first milestone.
The last walk of my holiday had finished on a high. I was happy with the 36 munros I had climbed and my new tally of 53. My munro hunger had been satisfied, for the time being at least. I could now start creating an appetite for next year and in the mean time deal with the withdrawal symptoms.

Goodbye hills, goodbye Scotland. Thank you for a fantastic holiday.

[mrssanta]

Brilliant Paula, what a shame to have to wait till next year.

[rockhopper]

And there was me thinking you'd finished after your last report Well done on a great couple of weeks...don't know how you kept going ! and congratulations on passing 50 Had similar thoughts to you when looking at these hills and in the end did an anticlockwise loop from the Glencoe car park which meant a long walk back up the WHW at the end of the day - interestingly it was almost exactly the same distance and ascent as your linear route as it didn't require a walk to Bridge of Orchy. You can now start planning for next year...and getting through 100 ? - cheers

[kev_russ]

Well done Paula, barry effort like, stunning pics tae

[pigeon]

Brill Paula,looks a tough one that especially at the end of you're bagging holiday.Still to do Criese out of these so might head up there soon but will do the four in one go some day.Well done again

[Clach Liath]

This is a traverse I have had my eye on for years but never got around to, though I was on the northern pair last year. The alternate to your dash for the bus is to stash a bike at the ski centre, start the walk at Victoria Bridge and to cycle back along the WHW.

What a fine way to bring up the 50 I am afraid you are well and truly hooked now and there is no cure!

[EACHANN AN DOIRE]

I've done thes four hills but not all at once. That was quite an effort - RESPECT!

[gammy leg walker]

Brilliant way to finish of your holiday Paula,really enjoyed reading all your TRs,cant wait till you return next year.

[Helen Bruce]

Well done Paula, a great effort on your holiday! Great to see you doing the Clach Leathad traverse. Look forward to some more major trip reports next year!

[simon-b]

Great pictures of some really good views, Paula. Well done on getting past 50 Munros.

[Frigate]

Great tally for the holiday, well done on the 50.

[Paula Hubens]

Brilliant Paula, what a shame to have to wait till next year.

Thanks mrssanta! It will be a long wait, but I’m sure all the TR’s on WalkHighlands will help me through.

Thanks rockhopper!
It wasn’t so much the distance, but the walking back I wanted to avoid. I quite like traverses!

You can now start planning for next year...and getting through 100?

You’re not planting any seeds, are you?

Well done Paula, barry effort like, stunning pics tae

Cheers kev_russ!

Brill Paula,looks a tough one that especially at the end of you're bagging holiday.Still to do Criese out of these so might head up there soon but will do the four in one go some day.Well done again

Thanks pigeon! I shall keep quiet about the bagging plans I had originally laid out for the day after….

Thanks Clach Liath! It is a great traverse, you’ll enjoy it when you get round to it.

I am afraid you are well and truly hooked now and there is no cure!

The only cure is to bag more!

I've done thes four hills but not all at once. That was quite an effort - RESPECT!

Thank you Eachan an Doire! I enjoyed your TR of you and your niece climbing the Curved Ridge!

Brilliant way to finish of your holiday Paula,really enjoyed reading all your TRs,cant wait till you return next year.

Thanks gammy leg walker! I can’t wait till next year either! Hope your foot gets better soon, so you yourself can get out again!

Well done Paula, a great effort on your holiday! Great to see you doing the Clach Leathad traverse. Look forward to some more major trip reports next year!

Thank you Helen! I’m already plotting….

Great pictures of some really good views, Paula. Well done on getting past 50 Munros.

Thanks simon-b. The views were stunning!

Great tally for the holiday, well done on the 50.

Cheers Frigate!

[skuk007]

Great route Paula, I hadn't thought of doing it that way.

Well done on getting 36 done. I must have missed a few reports, was that 36 in one trip? Respect if it is

Happy planning for your next trip. What you got your eye on?

[Paula Hubens]

Thanks skuk007!
For next year it’s Glen Coe and the Fort William munros. I’m also planning the trip after that already!