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The MWIS forecast had promised a good start to the day, with rain arriving around lunchtime so we set off early, fortified with full Scottish breakfasts at The Ceilidh Place. We didn't have much time before the rain, so decided to climb Cul Beag.
We parked on the verge near the start of the route, and headed up the well made stalkers path towards Loch Fhionnlaidh. We passed gorse still in flower and headed along the edge of a tiny woodland of Scots pine before heading into open moorland, the grasses now a golden brown coppery colour. Stac Pollaidh soared majestically to the left of us, it's upper reaches dusted with a scattering of icing sugar snow. To our right the cliffs and crags of Cul Beag rose ominously, the dark grey skies threatening rain and snow.
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- The craggy slopes of Cul Beag
We walked quickly, aware that the incoming rain would hide any possible views. We took the easy stalkers path all the way to Loch Fhionnlaidh, about 1km from the start of the walk and then at the mini-cairn we set off up the steep hillside of Cul Beag. It looked impossible to ascend, but as we rose along the steep boggy path we were soon in amongst the crags and the path carefully avoided the worst of the rocks. Views were opening up across the lochan-strewn landscape, burnished copper and auburn autumn colours, all the way to Suilven with it's dinosaur-like shape dominating the horizon. Cul Mor rose like a mighly molar to our left and the dark rocky sandstone buttresses of Cul Beag were dominating our immediate views.
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- Suilven and Cul Mor
The wind began to pick up and the slope was relentlessly steep. The ground eased off as we reached the col and a cairn marked the start of the final ascent to the summit. The ascent really steepens here and takes you up steep, scree-covered ground. The snow was starting to turn to ice on the slippery rocks, and the angle of ascent increased with every step. Strong winds were now coming from the West. Out towards the Summer Isles I could see the darkening skies bringing the promised rain our way. We continued ever upwards, more rocky scrambling and then finally we reached the summit plateau and cairn and miraculously the wind dropped for long enough for photos, tea and cake and a chance to savour the delightful Assynt landscape.
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- Summit of Cul Beag
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- Stac Pollaidh from summit of Cul Beag
Suddenly the winds picked up again and the hail started, sending us packing up our rucksacks and heading down the hill. The first part of the descent was trecherous and every step was slow and deliberate, careful of an icy slip. Soon we were back at the col and by now the hail had turned to steady rain so we hastened back down to the stalkers path and onto the car.
