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In 2004 gizmogirl and I set off to climb Fionn Bheinn with a bunch of medical students on placement at Raigmore. The cloud was down over our intended target so we diverted to Meall a' Chaorainn which was in the clear. There was much hilarity and heroic leaping over hags and bogs and we got excellent views from the top. No one was much bothered we didn't make Fionn Bheinn and I remember we got to the coffee shop earlier than expected to gorge ourselves on chocolate cake.
In March 2005 I made a second attempt with my son Doug but by the time we reached the bealach my fit young labrador Danny was limping and obviously in pain - so we turned back. We took him to the vet and at first they thought it was his cruciate ligaments but a biopsy and liver scan revealed he had an aggressive cancer which was untreatable.
Danny on Ben Loyal
On Skye
After biopsy
Within three weeks of that climb, to save him further suffering, we had him put to sleep. He was four years old. We were heart-broken and it took another four years before I could face climbing Fionn Bheinn again.
It seems to me that like Ben Chonzie, Fionn Bheinn gets a bad press. You hear it said that few would bother to climb these hills if they weren't over the magic 3000 feet mark. I don't agree. Fionn Bheinn may be one of the easier Munros to climb but the views from it are wonderful, set as it is at a convenient distance from some of the big boys in the surrounding area.
Fionn Bheinn in the centre of the skyline (from Little Wyvis)
Fionn Bheinn from north shore of Loch Fannich
From south slopes of An Coileachan
From Meall Gorm
It was April Fools Day and gizmogirl and I left the car beside the duck pond at Achnasheen station to start a third attempt on Fionn Bheinn. We crossed the main road and followed the track past farm buildings to begin the trudge up the east side of the Allt Achadh na Sine. On that steep section I couldn't help but think of my uncomplaining dog climbing it when he was so seriously ill.... and I didn't know it.
This time when we reached the bealach we headed over to the right towards Creagan na Laogh to avoid the worst of the bogs and peat hags. It's true to say at this point it's not a very exciting climb, more of a grassy plod.
Fionn Bheinn from south approach
But the views from the top make up for any lack of adrenalin surge in getting there. The summit trig point is close to the edge of the high corrie Toll Mor.
Faithful companions on Fionn Bheinn summit
South to Sgurr a Ghlas Leathaid (cornice of snow still hanging on to NE facing ridge)
North to the Fannichs
North west to An Teallach and Fisherfield
An Teallach
Lochan Fada
Beinn Eighe and Liathach
I think gizmogirl's pics are sharper than mine so the next four are hers - which I use with her permission.
View north from summit
Slioch, Lochan Fada and Fisherfield
Beinn Eighe and Liathach
Beinn Eighe zoomed
The Brahan Seer is said to have made a prophecy about Fionn Bheinn, which unlike many of his prophecies is so far unfulfilled. It states that the time will come when a raven, attired in plaid and bonnet, will drink his fill of human blood three times a day on Fionn Bheinn. The day we were up we didn't see a raven, with or without plaid and bonnet, nor do I recollect seeing any other humans - unlike others who have reported the hill being extremely busy. Maybe it being April Fools Day would deter sensible folk from venturing on to a hill with such a threat hanging over it.
No ravens drinking human blood but on the descent my trusty hound Jack had a Yorick moment when he found a sheep's skull. Unlike some parts of dead animal he finds (I'm convinced Jack thinks finding bones is the purpose of going out in the hills - along with scavenging for scraps from other walkers' lunches
) this skull had already been picked clean so I didn't immediately confiscate it.
Jack with his booty
We adopted Jack from a Labrador Rescue shortly after we lost Danny. He was quite a challenge after biddable Dan, with no recall and a strong hunting instinct. So it was only after some intensive training I could let him off lead on the hill. He's a good example of not writing off a dog too quickly as he's now excellent on the hill - but his one flaw would be a continuing obsession with finding bones and eating them - which can have uncomfortable consequences in the back of the car during the drive home!
So I rationed his time with this skull.
We got Tess from the same Rescue six months after we got Jack. From working stock she had no obedience issues when out, apart from her obsession with carrying stones (has to be working). This has worn down her teeth so she doesn't get much of a look in on the chewing front. But she does love to roll on dead items - the smellier the better.
It looks like gizmogirl is playing the flute - the lost piper of Fionn Bheinn
An advantage of this hill is that it doesn't take all day and there's lots of time to visit the craft and coffee shop at the station. But the last time we stopped there (in September this year) it was closed. Does anyone know if this is a temporary or permanent state of affairs? It will be badly missed by folk travelling between Inverness and the west coast.