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Beinn Dearg (Torridon) 18/12/12
Video says it all really!!
Having had a great day in Assynt the day before, I had decided to head to Glen Torridon and hike up two Corbett’s (Sgurr Dubh and Sgorr nan Lochan Uaine) on the second day of my mini adventure. The views to Beinn Eighe, Liathach and also to Beinn Liath Mhor were meant to be stunning and added to this the fact that there was little in the way of scrambling; I thought these would be perfect for a winter’s day out on my own.
I arrived in Torridon around 16.00 on Monday and unfortunately there was a layer of cloud on these two hills as well as the other western most hills in Glen Torridon. I was a little disappointed as I was hoping for great views and did not want to spend the day in the clag when other nearby hills were cloud free- The MWIS forecast had suggested that some hills may be cloudy/misty all day when other nearby hills would be cloud free. The easterly wind made it more likely to find cloud free mountains further west and closer to the coast.
As the evening progressed I noticed stars forming to the north of the car over Liathach and Beinn Eighe suggesting the cloud had left these hills, however this was not the case for the two on my hit list for the morning!!!! I would have to wait and see what the morning would bring. Sunrise was at 08.44am (with twilight dawn starting at 07.56am) and I decided I would start my walk at around 06.00 with the head torch on which would enable me to gain some height before sunrise…… (best laid plans and all that!!).
Anyway – given the fact that I had been up since 03.00AM on the Monday, I found myself fast asleep shortly after the outdoors weather forecast on the radio (19.15PM!!!!!!!!). I slept soundly in the back of the car and woke up at 04.35AM. I was a little cold so I turn he car on to heat up. I felt good having had a great sleep and I started getting things ready. I was all set by 05.30AM.
However – I could still see a cloak of mist over the two Corbett’s
. Ah well – never mind. Due to this I was determined to wait until 06.00AM before walking as I did not want to end up in the cloud when the sun came up – then I’d get no views at all!!! So I waited…………………. Waiting and thinking – mmmmm – west – cloud free – blue skies – great visibility – mmmmmm –OR – stay here and head up for a possible day in the clag mmmmmm. Literally at 05.59AM I changed my mind – I’m heading west – for a winter traverse of Beinn Dearg!!!!!!!! I had a map and compass for this hill as well as my route description and GPS- It would be great!! I was a little apprehensive about the “airy ridge” steep slopes and scrambly sections though, as these are all descriptions for the hill in summer – in winter (as with all hills ) these “easy scrambles with by pass routes” can be a little more serious!!
Anyway – off I went and I arrived at the Coire Mhic Nobuil car park around 06.30. I was off before 07.00 in the dark and more importantly with a sky full of stars. Amazing sight – the sky was twinkling with millions of them – it’s a shame I don’t have a better camera which could capture this (I did try and ended up with a black photo!! Lol). The path is excellent and perfect for walking along in the dark with only a headlight for illumination! By the time I was under the Horns of Alligin, the light was starting to appear in the eastern sky toward Beinn Eighe. Beinn Alligin had a good amount of snow and looked fantastic with the stars behind it. I continued my march toward the Bealach a’ Chomhla. By the time I reached here, dawn was well on its way and the pink sky made the white peaks of Baosbheinn and Beinn an Eoin look spectacular!
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- Baosbheinn
Away from the stunning scenery, I had to find a way up Beinn Dearg. I ended up choosing a route which looked the least steep option heading in an easterly direction. However there were a number of crags which had to be negotiated and a little bit of scrambling done!! It was certainly steep and the higher I got, the more snow and ice I encountered. I eventually, stuck on my crampons and headed up a mini gully which had some lovely Neve, this was better and quicker than the rough scrambly, icy rocks!!
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- snow getting steep!!
I was soon at Stuc Loch na Cabhaig (889m) after another wee scramble. As I crested the ridge one of the best views I have ever witnessed came into view. Alligin had been keeping me company which was spectacular enough but now I had the other two giants – Beinn Eighe and even better- Liathach – amazing!!! These views were with me now for the rest of the traverse!!
The descent from here to the summit was steep and the ridge narrow in places. There was lots of good compact snow which was good but with steep slopes dropping away on either side, a slip or misplaced foot placement would be disastrous. It was nerve racking and I was starving, it was now at least 3hrs since I had left the car and over 4hrs since I have my breakfast (consisted of an energy drink, ibuprofen and a banana!!). I made the summit and sat myself done and had brunch. I was trying to take it all in – what a day!! In my trepidation on staying on my feet and thinking of my hunger I had not taken any photos or footage since gaining the ridge – with my tummy fed I was going to remedy that!! Views in all directions – not going to try and explain in words – just see some of the photos below (I have pasted them all on my web page – too many to post here!!
http://wilkiemurray.weebly.com/some-pictures.html ).
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- me and Beinn Alligin
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- pano
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- just me and my shadow
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- summit poser
Next was the pinnacle or “castle” which according to the book (gives a pleasant easy scramble” – gulp??)
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- castle and liathach
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- castle
There was a massive drop down to Loch a’ choire Mhoir on one side and the other side did not look like somewhere to slip down either!! Due to the snow the “ledge on the south side which provides an easier route” was banked out and probably more dangerous than going directly over!!! So directly over it was…… It was not too bad , the most difficult part was the down climb on the other side where in hind sight I should have ditched my poles and used my axe with a spare hand to hold the rock. Ho hum – anyway from here to Carn na Feola at the end of the ridge there were no technical sections and I could really take in the stupendous views!!! I arrived at the end of the traverse at 12.45. Sounds nice and early but with sunset at 15.30 I was keen to get moving as I was still a good few hours from the car. I descended roughly south from the summit (probably went a bit SE then SW on the descent to the valley and back to the path. Due to the Liathach in the North, this area had not seen the sun all day and was still icy!! Had to be careful en route back…..
I made it back to the car just after sunset. This had been an amazing day, easily one of my best mountain days. With it coming after an amazing trip to Assynt, it was a great Christmas gift to myself ! haha. However I now had to head all the way home in the dark and then spend the next few days getting ready for Xmas 2012………………
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- waterfall
P.S. It turned out the two Corbett’s I had planned on doing were also in blazing sunshine all day!! However – can’t complain as Dearg was spectacular. With it giving views to the well know peaks – does this hill deserve more credit – perhaps not as spectacular as the other thee – does it give the best vantage point for the Torridon giants?????
some pics-
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- north toward gairloch
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- Liathach
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- eighe????
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- the ridge
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- slioch
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- final pano
