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Having seen JwRamsay's report on the conditions on Beinn Chabhair it became obvious that some serious amount of snow had fallen in this part of the world on sunday night, so Balgonie and I met up at the Kings House, Balquidder to drive down the wee road to Inverlochlarig together. Knowing this was a minor, untreated road we expected some dodgy ice and snow patches and we got it
With the exception of a couple of minor skids and slides we made it in one piece to the car park. We were the only ones here, as it remained for the rest of the day. Kitted up, we set off at 8.30am, over the rickety wooden bridge and through the still boggy patch beside the farm.
We were treated with some lovely early morning views of the surrounding mountains.
- View South
There was quite heavy snow on the sides of this steep mountain, but at the lower levels nothing too problematic, it was just a case of getting into a rhythm and enjoying the morning sunshine. After our last walk that consisted of a 5 hour drenching in Drumochter the week before, this was a welcome change.
- Aye, that way!
- A breather in the shadow of Stob Binnein
- Bad boy icicles
At about the 400m spot height the ground conditions began to change. The snow was much deeper but with absolutely no compaction and on the very steep slopes it simply slid beneath our feet and made the going very slow and tiring on the legs. On the very steep bits it was virtually impossible to gain any grip at all. Spikes were donned in the hope of providing some sort of traction but they were useless in thick powder, they simply sunk to the wet grass a foot or so below where they just skidded. A times it was two steps forward, one step back. At this point I started swinging the pick of the axe ahead of me hard through the powder and embedded it in the turf below, then when it was secure I pulled myself up via the shaft. Unconventional, tiring and not what the axe was meant for but it worked
Then the wind picked up speed, snow was blown into the face so glasses were put on. Head down axe swinging, I felt like a coal miner on the wrong side of the rock face
- The wind is a-blowing
- climbing up in the blizzard
- view down Loch Voil
At this point we were just below the crags and it was a case of assessing which way to go. The GPS with the WH route suggested turn to the left and a wide approach to the top. We could do this or just go direct and tough it out. No contest, we were having too much fun despite how tiring it was. Straight up we go
Balgonie is super fit and as this was his first climb in Loch Lomond was loving the conditions and the change from the Cairngorms plateau and was off. My knees, arthritic and knackered from years of rugby were screaming but I just kept swinging that axe, dug in and headed for the top.
- pick a point of attack
- Summit in sight
As we reached the final bit of ascent, the conditions made it difficult to see which way to go, large rocks were snow covered and it was difficult to see if there was any drops or crevices beneath our feet so we tentively climbed over them testing the ground in front for firmness. We had taken a slight wrong turn but could see the summit ahead but it was blocked by a huge snow drift covered slope. With a scramble and axes implanted we eventually managed to get over it and our reward at the top waited. A tough ascent and the top was gladly reached. A chance to rest and refuel.
- Topped out on Tulaichean
- Balgonie on Tulaichean
Rested, we began the assault on Cruach Ardrain. This is likely to be clearly defined ridge in good conditions, but up there in the heavy snow it was difficult to judge which was best route of ascent, we just ploughed on in the right direction, with each of us taking a sudden tumble as we slid or tripped on a snow hidden rock.
- The "ridge" ahead to Ardrain
Several sections were excruciatingly steep and twice I had to arrest as I slid down as the snow collapsed beneath my feet. On one section the ground gave way and I slid about 30 metres, swearing at the reascent I would have to do. The mind was taken off the climb when we encountered this dodgy looking fellow. I wasn't sure if I was hallucinating with tiredness but Balgonie's photo proved he was there:
- The evil snowman of Ardrain
On reaching the top I was worn out and half-jokingly ordered my climbing partner to send for the helicopter as I refused to move another inch
- Balgonie summits Cruach Ardrain
- Made it!
A quick refuel, the customary summit shots and it was time to head out of the wind and back to the bealach to begin the descent.
- back to bealach
- Down here for home
Descending was a mixture of tumbling and glissading (both voluntary and enforced
) before we finally hit the landrover track and could begin the trudge back to the car. This circuit is probably a breeze in summer and fairly good going once ice has formed but in sheer powder it was a tough climb. Yet, we both walked back as dusk began to fall with huge grins on our faces. This is what winter climbing in Scotland is all about
