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I must admit that walking the WHW had never really appealed to me; somehow I think I’d gained negative impressions about the whole thing, but anyway the early spring and a desire for a reasonable length backpacking trip overcame my apprehensions and after all of 2 hrs of planning I packed my bag with 5 days (4 nights) of food and a ¼ litre of scotch and I was ready for the off. I planned to be travelling fairly light, base weight = 7.2kg; food, drink and fuel = 4.3kg; Total = 11.5kg.
Day 1 – Milngavie to Garadhban forest, 25km
After travelling for 5 hours I finally got set off at 12:35pm. Wasn’t that impressed with the route, pleasant enough but could have been anywhere, the fantastic sunshine in February certainly made it feel like somewhere different to Scotland. Wild camped in sheep pasture, NS 456908.
Day 2 – Garadhban forest to Inversnaid, 30km
Woke late after a bitter cold night, the Trailstar was coated with ice inside and out, and after a lazy start finally got on the go for around 8:45am, wall to wall sunshine again!
With the route over Conic hill closed lots of tarmac bashing to Sallochy, by there I was glad to leave the black top and follow the winding FP through the trees, great views of the mountains to the north and west.
By afternoon the weather looked as though a change was in the offing as the cloud thickened.
Wild camped by lochside, NN 335094
Day 3 – Inversnaid to Tyndrum, 30km
Another frosty night, the cloud of the day before had gone and it was back to wall to wall sunshine yet again, 3 days in a row in February !!!
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I found the next section of around 5km is probably to most difficult of the route, far from being the easy stroll down the loch side that I envisaged from viewing the map, the FP twists and turns like a corkscrew and doesn’t seem to be level for more than 2m at a time!
Rolled into Tyndrum around 6pm and rather than camp I chose to stay at the ‘By The Way’ hostel, must stay this was a good decision, £16 for excellent accommodation! Had a good meal at the Tyndrum Inn just up the up the road before retiring to the hostel, here I was forced to partake in some fine single malts by a fine group from the Deep South.
Day 4 – Tyndrum to King’s House, 30km
Got set off before 8am thanks to a snorer who awoke me too early from Laphroaig slumber.
The scenery from here on is definitely Highland and not a wind turbine in sight!
Finally arrived at the Kings House around 5pm for some well earned chips and a couple of sherbets before heading up the river and pitching up.
Day 5 – King’s House to Glen Nevis, 35 km
The weather didn’t look too bad, forecast was 50:50 for clear summits but the ‘Buachaille’ looked pretty gloomy.
Was away by 8am and by 11:45 I was in Kinlochleven enjoying an early lunch feast; scotch pies and malt loaf washed down with Iron Bru!
After the initial steep ascent through the woods from Kinlochleven the old military road over the Lairigmor is quite a sight as it disappears into the distance
...and on and on....
My original plan was to walk into Ft William but since I had food I decided to camp again if I could find a place close to town. I found a spot for the night in a forestry track ‘lay-by’ (~NN 119725)
Day 6 – Glen Nevis to Fort William, 4km
I ignored the official route along Glen Nevis and opted for a Forestry Commission FP that skirts around Cow Hill and drops right into town by the hospital (a far more preferable route to the diesel fumes of rush hour IMO)
By 9am I was enjoying the full Scottish breakfast
The train journey back to Glasgow is worth a mention, the ride is nearly as good as the walk, the scenery is magnificent!
