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So this was the weekend the forecasters suggested “full on winter conditions” would return to the Highlands
Could be interesting I thought
I’d been watching the Met Office forecasts all wee and a couple of choices. A final check at way-too-early-o’clock suggested Maol Chean-Dearg looked best. Sun was promised too, so I settled down for an extra hour’s kip before leaving the house at 3.45 a.m. for the drive north
The drive up was fine. Despite the shorter distance for me being up the west via the A82 greater speed is achieved by heading east and shooting up the A9 and then heading off west a little north of Inverness. Turning off at Garve and the amount of snow at a low level was quickly apparent and as the snow started to fall the amount stating to lie on the road was also apparent
Arriving at Coulags and parking up near the start of the walk the snow was falling nice and heavily. I decided to sit it out in the hope that it would blow over, which it eventually did. But not without causing me a fair delay in terms of my start time.
- At the start of the route
Despite the evident wind (could really hear it whistling through the crags of Meall nan Ceapairean) it was actually a great day weather wise.........well it was at this point anyway
I did my best to misplace the path early on
Found it again at the point that it gains height slightly before dropping down to the footbridge over the Fionn-abhainn. An excellent path all the way in and past the Coire Fionnaraich bothy, with good wintery views of Sgurr Ruaidh and Fuar Tholl (bringing back great memories of my walk in that area late 2012
)
Stopped off at the bothy for a nose around. Looks a cracking place to stay, in a superb location.
- Bothy
A short way past the bothy and I arrived at the weird natural rock architecture of Clach nan Con-fionn, or as I like to call it the “Fionn’s finger”, as at one angle this is just what it looked like I was being given
- Getting the "finger"
Took the left fork in the path a little past the “finger”. Still a good path, but a bit eroded in places. Thankfully the ground was pretty hard, so not much bog to navigate through. Initially it’s a bit steep, but never anything too much and soon views toward Meall nan Ceapairean, Coire Ghairbh and my eventual destination Maol Chean-Dearg opened up in front of me. A good wee walk along the path brought me to the foot of the hill. I had been tempted to head prematurely up its steep side at this point, rather than work my way to the bealach a Choire Garbh.
- Maol Chean-Dearg coming into view
- An Ruadh Stac poking through on the route up to the bealach a Choire Ghairbh
- My possible shortcut route
I’m glad I didn’t as the walk to the bealach just to witness An Ruadh Stac was reason enough to stick to the route. Simply stunning
- An Ruadh Stac
- Beinn Damh
But by now quite windy
- The route ahead
- View to Loch a' Mhadaidh Ruadh
After a short break to marvel at An Ruadh Stac and Beinn Damh round the corner I continued up the steep scree path onto point 757. A nice little walk up this path, made all the more entertaining by the strengthening wind. At times the gusts were pretty strong and rather than totter about up the path I simply stopped and let it do its worst. Then, when I thought the gust was over, I carried on.
- A bit of the initial path up from the saddle
- View back down to the bealach a Choire Ghairbh
- "Arty" shot of An Ruadh Stac
Hitting the top and more battering from the wind as I made my way across the short saddle to the final ascent onto Maol Chean-Dearg. Views were opening up to Beinn Liath Mhor
Beinn Eighe And latterly Liathach
- The route ahead to the summit
- A little bit of Liathach
- View west, out to sea and the Isles
All looking supreme
I couldn’t wait to hit the summit and enjoy the stellar views of the Toridonian giants
But wait........
What’s that.........?
.......As I labour up over the scree and boulders of the short final climb.
As I look across to the Beinn Liath Mhor dark clouds.....harbingers of doom.......are a heading my way. Soon Beinn Eighe and Liathach are hidden from view
And will remain so
- Dark clouds not only gathering, but coming right at me
Soon the gusting wind is even more gusting
Soon it is snowing.........horizontally
I’m taking a pounding
- Suddenly enthusiasm wanes, as I head to the summit in wind and the snow starting
Eventually I arrive on the summit plateau, spying the large cairn ahead.......
......but in the gusting wind and snow it’s vanished in the blink of an eye
- The cairn
It was pretty ferocious on top. Full winter conditions indeed, which probably lasted on and off for a good 90 minutes, if not a bit longer. No stellar summit views
In fact this was the only summit view I got in the short while I hid behind the cairn long enough to text MrsR
- The view
Fifteen minutes earlier and it could have been so different
Fifteen minutes earlier and I could have had 360 degree views
Fifteen minutes earlier.......
I was soon heading back down, getting battered by the wind as I did so, although things brightened uo a bit before the snow returned for a second time. Learning point from the day for me was that I should have packed my goggles. Personally I find them uncomfortable, but how I needed them now.....uncomfortable or not.
My left eye was getting pounded by the snow. Pounded to the point that it hurt, as snow was forced into my face by the gusting wind. And then in the wind chill it felt like the eye was beginning to freeze (it wasn’t, but man it was cold). For 30 to 45 minutes it was quite uncomfortable as I was wind blasted down off the hill. Despite that fact though there were still some excellent, atmospheric, views to be enjoyed
- Meall nan Ceapairean after the first snow had passed
- A brooding An Ruadh Stac
- Slightly more snow on the bealach a Choire Ghairbh by now
On the steep descent off from point 757 I chose to pick the wrong path down (went too far to my right) and came down a corker
Well, I needed a cork in places if you get my meaning
Very steep, no grip and altogether a bit of a mare for a few brief minutes.
- You just can't tire of a view of An Ruadh Stac can you
But, through a combination of bum slides and grabbing anything I could get hold of to stop myself from sliding or falling I made it down to the safety of the saddle with Meall nan Ceapairean. From there it was an easy walk back to “Fionn’s finger” and the bothy, by which time the snow had stopped and the sun was back out
Stopped at the bothy for a quick break and there was a group of campers setting up their tents. Out on a four nighter......just as winter was returning
Rather them than me. Especially as, by the time I hit the road the cloud has re-descended behind me and snow had started again. So I left them to their breezy tents as I headed home to the comforts of central heating and a warm shower
- Wouldn't want to be camping in that!
