Handa Island

[denfinella]

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The final day of our week in Sutherland had arrived. We'd managed to get up to a summit of sorts (200m!) the previous day (http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=31890) but it was too windy for Arkle today. As a result, we set off back towards Aberdeen, but couldn't resist stopping by at a rather special place on the way...

Handa Island is a haven for seabirds and late April saw us just catch the beginning of the nesting season. The walk is to be recommended even if you don't have more than a passing interest in seabirds, although we were a couple of weeks to early for the birds to be there in great(er) numbers. The ferry leaves just up a twisting side road from Scourie at Tarbet, which is itself an exquisitely beautiful place.

Tarbet

We donned lifejackets and made our way across the water. The ferry is tiny but makes for a fun ride across the waves over to Handa Island.

Ferry

This was the first time this week the boat had been able to run due to higher winds in the previous days. There was still something of a swell, dictating a landing at the southern bay rather than the normal, northern one. Volunteers with the Scottish Wildlife Trust (I think) helped pull the boat ashore.

Alighting on Handa Island

Everybody was given a quick talk on the history and wildlife of the island, plus a few seasonal tips on what to expect to see on the walk, and a handy hand-drawn map which points out the key features and birdlife around the island - negating the need for any other map. We were then free to make our way round the island at our own pace. The path soon forks to circle most of the island in a lollipop shape. Most people went anticlockwise, so we went the other way to avoid being part of a procession!

Skuas filled the air on the way across the southern fringe of the island. The path is very clear, fairly level and has boardwalks for much of its length. Eventually we reached the coast at an interesting natural arch. From here the path follows the western coast north, and the photos should tell the story.

Skuas

Sleeping gull

Guillemots & razorbills

Huge cliffs suddenly revealed at Sithean Mor

Sunshine beating the showers

Flying high

Early nests of the season

We'd been advised that only a few puffins had so far been sighted on Handa Island this spring - even one of the volunteers (who'd been there a few weeks) hadn't spotted any yet. We approached Great Stack not expecting much. Great it is indeed.

Great Stack

The stack is still a fair distance away from the closest viewing point, and the number of other birds wandering around and sitting around the edge of the stack confused matters. But lo and behold, sitting right in the middle of the grassy top:

Puffins!

Close-up

Wind plus distance made for some pretty shocking photos, especially as they had to be taken at full zoom through a pair of binoculars - essential for the walk. But at least we saw a couple, to add to the few we've seen at RSPB Fowlsheugh south of Aberdeen.

And that was about it. Before the walk back across to the even rougher (and rainy) return ride on the ferry, we were treated to one last view north up the NW coast, looking back on a lovely few days in the most isolated corner of the British Isles.

Goodbye

[molemike]

You have been on Handa-Island !
Yes, the ferry - or the weather-conditons - became another part of the dissapointments on my tour.
Going up there was to much wind and rain, coming down from Tongue there was a "dramatic" sea along the coast on tuesday, understandable no chance for a ferry.

Stayed at Scourie, for at least one hour watching the impressive tide coming in,

saving my "lamb of the day" by putting it back over the fence

and after a night at Scourie-Hotel went back to Tarbet on wednesday morning

It is a bit difficult to ask for the ferry with a mobile phone - you have to drive back to the main road
Nevertheless - when all the staff were there they said: Definitely not, not today!
So I drove down to Loch Maree, the next day you had the chance for Handa, I did the Triple Buttress- Walk,
- no need to say in wind an heavy rainshowers, even hail
Something very important: I have found my "peace of mind"
Puffins at Dunnet Head

No more mourning - it was nice to see your posts knowing that some other people enjoyed that marvellous part of Scotland nearly simultaneosly. Perhaps I will try reports on my Stac Pollaidh-day, the Triple Buttress and a sort of lighthouse-bagging. So long denfinella!

[denfinella]

With those sorts of seas I'm not surprised the ferries were cancelled. But congratulations for your own puffin jackpot!

[Kay Zeden]

Lovely report- thanks for posting
I was going to head out there today, but will have to wait for a dog sitter as it’s strictly a dog free island

[Sunset tripper]

Great report and a great wee island. I would recommend it to everyone.

Handa Island July 2019