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Saturday 25th May and we set off at 4.30am on our annual 550 mile trip to Culnacraig on the Coigach peninsula, nestled below Ben Mor Coigach. 11 hours later we finally arrived having driven up in gorgeous sunshine from Lincolnshire to Inverness, only to see it abruptly end at Ullapool! We were not too disheartened as temperatures were mild and the forecast for the week were good.
A quick check on the MWIS predicted low winds and good weather for the following day, so we decided to start the week off with a bang by tackling Sgurr an Fhidhleir and Ben Mor Coigach.
Ben Mor Coigach is a magnificent mountain. Viewed from the Ardmair it appears as one massive ridge, not revealing any of its many facets.
It is only when you take the road to Achiltibui when it begins to reveal its true character, with Sgurr an Fhidhleir pointing skywards like a sharks fin.
Looking back east it takes on a different perspective
And from Culnacraig, the end of the Ridge at Garbh Choireachan plunges almost vertically into Loch Broom.
So after a leisurely start to the day, we exited the back gate of our cottage and headed out onto the slopes and cut across to pick up the path to Sgurr un Fhidhleir
Looking back towards Ullapool, the clouds were beginning to thin and blue skies were appearing. The air was cool…perfect for the climb ahead.
As we gained height, although the view forward was, as yet, just moorland, behind us, the Summer Isles were basking in sunshine.
Eventually, our first target, Sgurr an Fhidhleir, came into view, giving nothing away regarding the spectacular delights waiting for us at the summit.
Time for a break with the Coigach ridge in the background. I had been watching two guys who set off at the same time as us and had just made it to the ridge
Finally, after a couple of hours trudging up the heather moorland, we finally made it to the Summit. Last year, I made it up here on my own in freezing temperatures and snow on the ground. Although the view was good, nothing beats this view on a clear , sunny day. Is there a better view from any summit?
All of Assynt mountains, Stac Pollaidh, Suilven, Canisp, Cul Mor, Cul Beag with Ben an Eoin in the foreground. Absolutely stunning.
We spent a good twenty minutes enjoying the view before heading down to the Bealach. A perfect place for a spot of lunch with Stac Pollaidh framed between the incredible cliffs of the Fhidhleir and Ben an Eoin.
We then climbed up the grassy slopes to the Coigach Ridge. Last year, I made it this far on my own, but had to turn back as the clouds closed in. This year, bathed in sunshine, I left my wife and son to enjoy the sun and walked the ridge as far as highest point three quarters of the way along. I had been fearful of this and doubted whether I could do it, but it was easy, the ridge is relatively wide and at no point did I feel exposed
Whilst I was exploring my wife was taking pictures, the Summer Isles and Skye bathed in sunshine.
Looking East to Ullapool.
An Teallach to the south
On my return, we then all made our way to the true summit of ben mor coigach. What a view!! Sgurr an Fhidhleir to the left and the rest of Assynt to the mountains of the North.
Carter was feeling pretty good. I had decided that rather than scrambling down Garbh Choireachan, our return route would be along the Alt nan Coisiche which can be seen on Carters left.
We found the source of the burn which erupted from the ground just below the bealach
The walk down was pathless and would probably be boggy in wet weather, but today it was dry and with the stunning view ahead of us, it was pretty easy going.
Eventually we lost the burn as it plunged into the gorge
At this point gradient became steeper. Loch Broom looked like glass and An Teallach was ever present
behind Ben Globlach
Moley, taking a well earned rest
We finally reached the crossing point of the burn and had a final drink. Perfect spot for a wild camp this. Maybe next year.
And finally, after seven wonderful hours we arrived back at the cottage, tired, but elated after a day that none of us will ever forget.