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Day 5 – and the sun is shining again! Whatever is going on?
I was a little slow off the mark today, and was feeling rather ‘leggy’ after the exertions of the last 4 days. For reasons too boring to go into, my usual fitness preparations for the trip didn’t happen, and I spent far too much time nailed to a desk – and as a result I was suffering the consequences now.
Oh well, it won’t be quite a day off, but it will be a shorter walk today followed by a bit of unashamed tourism.
I decided to take a trip down to Applecross, via the Beallach na Ba, to take in the Corbett Sgurr a' Chaorachain. I can’t believe my luck that for the 5th day in a row it is a beautiful day. The drive down from Torridon to near Kishorn is delightful especially on a day like this. The Bealach na Ba road starts by the farm of Tornapress, and you will be left in no doubt that you have found the right road. The big warning signs exhort you – ‘Its not safe, don’t go up there’, ‘Don’t even think about taking a caravan’ and ‘Shut all winter’ – or words to that effect. Braving certain death I drove on.
It’s actually not a bad road these days, though it is single track and there are big drops on one side. The main difficulties are the series of hairpins at the top, but these have been widened so even campervans can negotiate it quite happily.
My starting point was a small parking spot just after the last hairpin bend, but before the viewpoint car park. From here it is straight onto rough and in places boggy ground that is covered with big red sandstone boulders. Even though this is the quickest way up, there is not a path to be seen. The struggle across broken ground is relatively short lived, and soon you reach the ridge line.
Stop, and look around.
To the left is the view down the chasm that contains the Bealach na Ba road.
P6082830 by
cliveg004, on Flickr
The view goes across towards Loch Carron and Plockton in the near distance, and further away to the mountains of Glen Shiel.
Ahead lies the main ridge with a small tower sprawling across the ridge, and the summit lying at the far end.
P6082821 by
cliveg004, on Flickr
But there is more to this mountain. It has a deep coire, the opposite side being made up of the impressive A Chioch and the connecting ridge. Think of Ben Alligin’s horns – this is similar except more so! The Chioch Nose at the end is a tower, no other way to describe it, and it is a proper climb graded at Very Difficult (and for once they mean it!). Including the Chioch itself, there are in fact 6 ‘horns’ along the ridge, and mighty impressive it is.
P6082825a by
cliveg004, on Flickr
The ridge dips slightly before rising to towards the tower – not a very big tower – that lies across the ridge. It is possible to go over it, or around it on the north side overlooking the Chioch ridge. I decided to do the latter on the way out, and come back over the top. The way is a little rough and steep in places, but provided you go below the obvious crags it is fine. Once beyond the tower, the way is a gentle stroll to the summit – and what a summit it is! The views from here on a good day like today are just out of this world.
Torridon view by
cliveg004, on Flickr
Just a taster, from the cairn, looking over the lump that is Beinn Bhan (from this side, it is a mass of cliffs and coires on the other) the panorama takes in the whole of Torridon and round to the Strathcarron mountains. Go and see it – it’s well worth the going out of your way to get up here.
Having just lingered and looked for some considerable while, it was time to head back. Easily down to the slight col and then up the clamber onto the tower which proves to be another excellent view point.
One more of the ‘Horns’:-
P6082852 by
cliveg004, on Flickr
Across to Skye:-
P6082827 by
cliveg004, on Flickr
And a little further on, another fine view into Coire na Ba and beyond:-
P6082854 by
cliveg004, on Flickr
From here it was back down across rough ground back to my starting point. Taking my time, and who wouldn’t on a day like today, it was a very pleasant 3 hours stroll. For some reason the SMC Corbett’s book is a bit sniffy about this shorter direct route from the top of the pass, preferring a route that starts part of the way up at the Russel Burn, however it would be difficult to park there at the moment as road works are being carried out at the junction with the track you need to take. I have to say that other than the walk up the coire below the horns, I not sure about the added attractions of that route. If you need any sort of comparison, this route compares very favourably to other short routes such as the clamber amongst the ski paraphernalia of the Cairnwell for example.
Next up was a little tourism. Hopping into the car it was a short drive to the famous viewpoint. Today the view was extraordinary. It was a little hazy, but the below was a longer lens panorama of Skye above the mist.
Skye in the clouds 2 by
cliveg004, on Flickr
I sat there for ages just gawping – I simply couldn’t believe my eyes.
Next stop was lunch in Applecross. By the time I got there, the fog had cleared from Applecross bay, and it was a beautiful day. Time to refuel in that most excellent of watering holes, the Applecross Hotel. Having survived on tinned rations of dubious quality, their fresh haddock with peas, chips and home-made Tartar Sauce, washed down with a drop of Dundonell brewery’s Bealach na Ba ale, was an absolute feast. Food and drink has rarely tasted so good! I have to say the company is really good too, the owners and staff are all very friendly.
Whilst I was there everyone was caught up in the excitement of seeing a Sea Eagle souring over the bay. Fabulous bird, huge and majestic.
After lunch I bimbled south along the coast to Camustiel, for another fine view of the Skye Cuillin.
P6082872 by
cliveg004, on Flickr
I decided to return to Torridon along the reasonably new Applecross coastal road, it really is scenic.
North of Applecross I was taken by this tree and the view across to Trotternish beyond – don’t ask me why, I just liked it.
P6082878 by
cliveg004, on Flickr
Once you go round the northern corner of Applecross and start along the southern shore of Loch Torridon, the mountain scenery is once again breathtaking. Here’s just a couple of examples of how lovely it all was!
P6082885a by
cliveg004, on Flickr
Red house by
cliveg004, on Flickr
It was a lovely lazy day out, and one that will live long in the memory.
